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Old 08-20-2006, 04:13 PM   #526
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Norman hit is right on the head, it is a base setup all it will do is get you close you will have to make changes to your driving style and track layout/conditions.

One quick thing to post when you change the front kick up angle always check the front upper arms for binding. take the clip that is on the front uper arm off and work the suspension up and down and see where the front upper arm rests then put the clip to hold it in that position. if you just change the angle without checking this you may end up with a front suspension bind.
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:33 AM   #527
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Hey guys got a quick question for you all.I decided to take the clutch bell off and also the pads and springs.Then I decided that I wanted to check out the rear bearing to see how it was doing since I did see some leakage.So I gave the nut a little tug and the flywheel is loose but the nut is not.How can I get the nut loose.I had this piston stop but it does not fit in the Vspec.Any ideas would be very helpful.Oh I am going to replace the clutch any ideas of a good setup?
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:53 AM   #528
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This all might have something to do with that great locktite they sold me.I am pretty sure I used this super locktite on the nut also.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:49 AM   #529
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Don't be tempted to jam the the engine to remove the flywheel nut. I've seen these tools where you can lock the engine, but there's no need and you don't want your piston taking ANY of the strain, believe me.

Put the engine complete with the engine mount into a vice, supported by wooden blocks to avoid any risk of damage. Try gripping the the crankshaft and removing the nut this way. If the nut is stubborn and plastered with super strength loctite, allow it to soak in WD40 penetrating oil for a few hours first. Then try again.

If this still doesn't work, then you'll have to resort to using heat to get the nut off.

Once off, use a good box spanner for the nut and either a pair of adjustable grips or better still, vice grips for the flywheel and tighten things back up. There's no real need to use loctite here, but if you do, make sure it's the hand tool friendly variety, usually blue (though not necessarily - so ALWAYS read the label!!). Red locktite is usually higher strength stuff, like stud lock etc for full size Auto use, where stuff doesn't need to be removed for a long time, if ever.

Good luck!
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:27 AM   #530
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from what i have been told is the best way to remove a flywheel nut, is to turn the engine upside down and fill the piston and sleeve with after run oil thru the exhaust port. than you can turn the flywheel until you get a hydrolock then you should be able to twist off the nut. No damage to the piston from a piston locking tool. I had the same problem with my p5x i could tighten the flywheel nut all the way down and the flywheel was still loose. fisrt thing to fix this is to try with the engine supplied collet but if that doesn't work. what i did was get out my trusty dremel and ground the back of the collet down a little bit and then it fit no problem. on my new engine i just used the supplied collet and everything went together perfectly.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:52 AM   #531
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Ya know ROCKET I should always go by my old saying if it aint broke dont fix it.I might try that method with the afterrun oil but I am going to think about it for a bit and see what I can come up with.Now that there is no pinch or very little once I put pressure to the nut it just turns the motor over!
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:15 AM   #532
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Ok here is what I just ended up doing.I pulled out my small phillips screwdriver and put a piece of fuel tubing around it which fit perfectly.I put the new tool I just made into the exhaust port above the piston and gave the nut a little tug and came loose no problem without any damage.Yes I did use that crappy blue locktite but all is well.So I am looking at the rear bearing and it does have seepage.Do most engines have some seepage out the rear bearing and how much is too much?.The engine does seem to run well and smoothly and I don`t want to replace the bearing if it is not nessesary I mean I only have maybe a half gallon through it!.
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:12 AM   #533
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Guys word of warning to you all,do not do what I did today as upon closer inspection.I looked closely and there is a little dent on the side of the piston.Do not try this method!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:29 AM   #534
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motomanpat sorry to hear that hope the engine will still run for you. when your ready to purchase a new engine check my sig, i been testing these engines for this company and so far so good, i have been really impressed. they are not available to the public yet (should be about another month). But they are taking pre -orders.
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Old 08-23-2006, 11:53 AM   #535
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Well ROCKET thanks for the kind words.I feel like an idiot but I was going to have to take it apart regardless in the near future to replace those crappy bearings in the Vspec.Well all is not good with the piston & cyclinder.The area where the little indentation is on the piston hits the top of the exhaust port not too good.I have a new sleeve,piston and bearings on the way.Since it is already F`d up I might try some 5000grit or 8000grit sandpaper and give the ledge a little light rub to see if I can get rid of it and see if it still will run that way I don`t have to break it in again and also then I can save the sleeve and piston for later but it will just be a test.What an idiot I am,remember if it ain`t broke don`t fix it.Do you know where they sell a piston stop for the Vspec????
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Old 08-23-2006, 01:15 PM   #536
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i am telling you use after run oil its better than a piston stop which can dent the top of your piston. with the after run oil the pressure is applied evenly across the surface of the piston. flip it over fill the chamber with after run oil thru the exhaust port and twist until it locks.
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Old 08-23-2006, 04:28 PM   #537
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In the 20+ years I've been running nitro engines, I've never had to use any kind of locking method to remove the flywheel. Hydrolocking, and then attempting to remove the flywheel nut, IMMEDIATELY invalidates any warrantees supplied with that engine. No conrod or piston is designed to withstand that kind of abuse. Period.

As I said in my earlier post, it's far better to grip the flywheel and then remove the nut. In the example outlined above, where the flywheel is slipping on the crank, the crankshaft needs to be carefully gripped, from the front end, so as not cause any damage, and then the nut can be removed.

The only time anything should be inserted through the exhaust port is when the head has been removed and the user is attempting to remove the sleeve from the case. In that case, a plastic zip tie can be used to push the sleeve up enough to pull by hand, thus aiding removal.

Hard lines that you had to learn the hard way, especially when you consider the info is right here on the forum. Hope it still runs OK once you get the correct conical spacer! Good luck!
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:36 PM   #538
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Quote:
where the flywheel is slipping on the crank, the crankshaft needs to be carefully gripped, from the front end, so as not cause any damage, and then the nut can be removed.
With all due respect, Horatio, I've had one that I couldn't hold tight enough at the end of the crank to get the nut loose, period......Not to mention that, on most of them, you need to bring the nut driver, or wrench (or whatever) you are using on the nut, over the end of the crank and through the clutch shoe pins....unless you can pull them out, or cut them off and get a new flywheel...

I think that you are definitely right that the engines aren't designed to handle that much stress on the piston and conrod, but sometimes, "extreme circumstances call for extreme measures", and then pray it didn't screw anything up...lol. and if it did, then next time you'll know what NOT to do...lol.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune motoman....but next time come on here and ask if you can, cuz I think most of us would've jumped through the puter to stop you from trying the method with the fuel line.....Hope you can get at least some use out of the engine.....
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:08 PM   #539
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I use this...Part # 10799. It is kind of akward at first, you have to line up the slots with the flywheel pins correctly. It is designed in a way that you can use it for 2,3, or 4 pin flywheels. Ive never had a problem.

http://ofna.com/tool-glow.html
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Old 08-23-2006, 08:13 PM   #540
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Hi guys

There would be a day anybody will face this same problem also. Some says no need to use loctite on this nut, but there were incident of this nut loosening by itself experienced by some. I do use loctite as I personally had that experience of the engine refusing to idle as the loosen nut keeps pushing against the clutch-bell creating a clutch engaged effect.

The special wrench used by NitroOB4You is useless once the flywheel is not locked to the tapered bushing anymore as in motomanpat's case. Though Horatio's method is safe, caution should be taken as I had a buddy who crushed the shaft threaded front portion by applying too much pressure when it keep slipping. Another point to note also is that this shaft is kind of soft. Therefore, side pressure should be avoided so as not to bend it. You will be surprised how easily it can be sawn off as I've done to my 2 WS7 to change them to short shaft. Using fuel tubing over a driver is risky as the tubing is too soft, resulting in actually using the driver metal shaft on the softer silicone aluminium piston edge.

I prefer using the cable tie method as it's fast, easy and safe. If it keeps getting snip off, use the other locking side that is much thicker and stronger. If it still fails, my next choice is the after-run oil 'hydraulic lock' method, which can be rather messy.
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