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Old 08-15-2006, 06:51 PM   #496
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i am sorry kk- that reply was supposed to be for hyper7vspec. i will edit it too correct it. i have the same problem with my wing mounts the only perminate fix is to cut and put a nylock nut into the rear bulk head. a picture can be found on nitrohouse.com in the tech tips for the hyper 8. i drilled and tapped out a new rear bulkhead brace for 4mm and i just use 4mm button head screws to hold my wing on, i do have to tighten it after every qualifier but for some reason it seems to last thru a 30 min. main without really coming loose. (it will back out a couple of turns but the wing will still be stable.) i will eventually get some locknuts and do the proper fix but i haven't had any real issues with it as of yet.

oh and by the way i broke both of the stock self tapping screws i kept trying to tighten the wing down and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't get any tighter.
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:06 PM   #497
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I guess you've got yourself too many people seeking your expert advice that you got yourself confused who asked what.

I've changed my wing support mounting screw to M4 button cap screw as well. Like you said, it still does back out but not as much as the stock self-tap screw. I think it's the flipping and landing flat on the wing that causes the force on the support to pull the screw out. Will be doing the lock-nut method soon. I wonder how the Team Magic M1's buggy single wing mount support gonna survive off-road thrashing ?.

Thanks again for your reply.
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:44 PM   #498
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KK - Do the 4mm both ways. It is worth the energy.
Cut your bulkhead and use the 4mm screws that run the length of the chassis and run them into locknuts.
For the 3mm cross brace screw, use a 4mm diff housing screw. You need to drill each peice seperately so you don't make the bit walk out of line. The 3mm screw will bend. It is nightmare to find a replacement or sutable sub.
I used the diff housing screw into a 4mm lock nut and have never had a problem since.
Let us know what you think.
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Old 08-15-2006, 11:53 PM   #499
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Hi tex1

I was also thinking that's the only way to permanently fix this problem & have one area less to worry about. How I wish they make it the same way as the wing mounting system with slot for lock-nut.
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:24 AM   #500
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I am so Fu42478 mad right now!I took my car all apart and was putting it back together for my first race with my H8 this weekend .So I decided that it was a good idea to take the center diff apart and put some new fluid in it.Awhile back I bought this locktite from my LHS and used it throughout my car.Well two broken wrenches and the center diff posts are still not out.I am so pissed I don`t know what to do with myself now.This locktite was labeled removable strength and it is far from that.F32463246576 I`m pissed my whole god dam car is riddled with this stuff(front hubs,all set screws) what the heck am I gonna do!!!!! I am soooooo F87563 pissed
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:51 AM   #501
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I am assuming you are using rc grade tools, but if not, start with a good set.

Next, try applying some heat to the posts, if possible. Heat usually allows you to reduce the locktite bond.
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Old 08-17-2006, 07:22 AM   #502
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Ok...first....take a deep breath or two, lol...we have all been there. Second, you do know, with the H8, that you only need remove the top carbon plate to get to the center diffs? The braces are split in half horizontally, so once you remove the four top screws, plate and brake levers, all you need to do is lift the top half of each (Front and Rear) diff mount, then you'll have access to it. With that being said, you can heat metal parts up and this will loosen the loctite bond. If you don't have a heat gun, my first suggestion would be to pick one up...usually around $40 or so. Temporarily, you could bring it to the LHS...almost a guarantee...if they're racers, they've got a heat gun. You could also attempt to use a Bic style lighter...but please, lol...please be sure to remove your fuel tank and lines first. One last note...for best results, IMHO, stick with ONLY! Loctite brand...and ONLY! use Loctite Blue. In some rare cases, where you know you will not be removing a screw you can try Loctite Red...but be sure you're not intending to remove this screw anytime soon.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...ID=10&SubID=48
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:04 AM   #503
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listen to nitroob4you he is right on, but you will want to pick up some red loctite cause you will need it on the bolts that go thru the bottom into the front alumn. hub carrier. its important you use red loctite at this location only. but blue everywhere else for sure.
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:21 AM   #504
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Also, a good hair dryer will get it hot enough to loosen it up enough too....
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Old 08-17-2006, 11:34 AM   #505
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Well guys it is all way past that point.Two of the tips of the hardend wrenches are in the allen holes which I am not able to take out,they broke straight off.I am not really sure how to go about this but I think I might have to drill the screws out if I can find a bit hard enough to do it.
I went to the hobby shop today to replace my broken wrenches at the least.I recommended that they not sell this stuff as removable because it acts like red locktite,you know what they said to me.They said well the helicopter guys like it,I am like ya well I am not a helicopter guy!Man I am angry.Yes I do know that I could have just removed the top plate on the diff but I had one screw that was a little stripped and I was trying to avoid messing with it before the race.Well the huge bag of worms is open now thanks for trying to help guys but it looks as though my first race is not going to happen this week!
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Old 08-17-2006, 11:42 AM   #506
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Why would this keep you from racing??? Is something broke in the diff that you have to get these screws out before you can race??
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:44 PM   #507
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Hey WYLDTHING,

Well I have one post out,one post loose,and two posts still solid.I am just not sure what I`m gonna do yet and I am running out of time!The diff is not broken but the screws for the posts are now trashed.We will see what I can do to make it work but it is not looking very good.
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Old 08-17-2006, 01:07 PM   #508
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it should not be hard to find any of the screws as all car manufacturers make screws of the same size, just take in your manual and get a screw that will work. in the future you will want to get a dremel with a cut off wheel. then grind a slot into the screw and use a regular screw driver to unscrew it, and remember wear eye protection. as the cut off wheels are very brittle.
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Old 08-17-2006, 02:03 PM   #509
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Hey ROCKET,
Well I did get one of the three remaining posts out but it was loose enough for me to do so.Its funny I had already ordered some screws and misc. parts so they are on the way and will be here in the AM.I do have a dremel and cut off wheels but am going to try and avoid that if at all possible.I think for now I am going to leave the 2 posts in and wait for the screws so maybe I will have a chance at racing on Saturday at the very least.Man this sucks
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:22 PM   #510
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Red face My 2 cents...

I suggest going to an automotive shop and picking up a couple of threadlock sticks. They are Loctight brand and they are small, do not dry up and you will never over apply it. It is a paste so it will not run down into holes and you will better be able to put it on consistantly.
When you store them in your tool box they do not leak or dry up to plug the hole in the top.
Get one red and one blue and you will never go back.

You may have to cut the screws out. You can get them from a screw supply shop.
They are either 3mm or 4mm.

Sorry it is giving you soo much grief.
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