Rocket42

motoman i think you will want to use the bottom of the elongated hole not the top and twist the air filter so at the bottom of the elongated hole the rear of the air filter is tilted up like the rear wing kinda. another thing you may want to consider is a stronger servo i don't know what your running but the servo should be able to over come slight pressure being applied to it thru the air filter from the body. a servo with a 125 in. oz. of torque should be able to push 7.8 in. lbs. you would have to be pushing very hard down to accomplish that.

also just incase you are running a spektrum system i have found with mine that if the radio is really close to the reciever the signal will shut out that could be another issue if your using that setup.

motomanpat

iTrader: (2)

Hey Rocket,
Thanks for sending that setup to my email.I am a computer retard and can`t figure out how to print it off here I also don`t have a printer here but work does hehehe.I see what you are saying now about moving it downward I will have to try to make some adjustment to it.I have plenty of servo more than I`ll ever need but I think when I gave it throttle to start it,it just caught the edge of the filter cap.

motomanpat

iTrader: (2)

I was also curious if you are still using the shock shaft boots.I am considering not using them anymore as they are like 7$ a set and I can buy new shafts for just a little more.At this point the extra parts I have are, an extra air filter set,front and rear shock shafts,2x shock rebuild kit,center dogbone set,all arms,front and rear bumper as I see someone hitting me or me running into someone and having these plastic pieces break in two.Hopefully they will make some kind of metal aftermarket pieces instead of these plastic ones.

Rocket42

i am currently running the shock shaft boots of course they have a few tears in them put i keep using them, i try to clean them out after every trip to the track. if you want a cheap fix you can go to the $.99 store and purchase a bag of balloons the long skinny ones are the ones you want and they will fit right on your shocks they don't last as long as the boots but they are much cheaper to replace. i wouldn't recomend running without any boots as it probably wont cause a serious problem but some rocks could tear your o-rings and a o-ring rebuild kit is $10.

KK-racing

iTrader: (5)

Hi guys,

On the shock subject, would like to share my experience here. When I was running Kyosho, the shock boot tearing issue was just as common. I guess with the numerous stroke movement they are subjected to, any other type will also tear just as easily. Another thing to look out for is the rubber bladder under the shock cap - they do tear also, unexpectedly . During past 2 rebuilds noticed silicone oil behind this bladder where they are not supposed to belong. A close examination with a magnifying glass & by squeezing the bladder side revealed cracks & holes in the center portion.


Rocket42,

During past 2 weeks practice I noticed both my rear tires wear off MUCH(in fact it was almost bald in the center portion while the front still has 70%) more than both front tires. I am running 3K / 3K / 2K diff. oil & someone commented the center diff oil is too light, thus unloading all the torque more to the rear. What's your opinion ?. BTW, I was pretty 'trigger happy' with all the dust around & was trying alot of drifting around every corners. Could that be part of the reason ?.
One bad news was I broke(at the same lower mounting screw hole again) my other CNC lighten steering knuckle also.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

The center diff oil does not transfer to the rear when you are spinning tires. When you speed up the car loads towards the rear and transfers power to the front.

Chances are you are diffing out from side to side if you are wearing the rears out fast. I'm currently running 3K, 4K and 4K (front to rear). The track is very slick and the tires wear perfect from front to rear and side to side.

With the thin oil in the rear if I was in a slide te car would get very unpredictable. A rut would catch it and the rear would diff out. The thicker oil made the car super easy to drive.

Hope this helps.
TEX

I'm still getting you those pics Dennis!
<----- Not done yet.

motomanpat

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,
Quick question off the last post.I am running 3 3 2 and the rear tires seem to spin pretty hard under acceleration,if I go to 3 3 3 will that help with the rear tire spin or what effect will it have on the car?

Rocket42

i agree with tex lighter center diff fluid usually has the opposite affect of wearing the front tires out. i think tex is right as well about using a heavier rear diff fluid i would say go to 3k in the rear and that will give you less wheel spin and wheel spin is what causes your tires to wear out. i originally ran 1k in the rear diff of my car but it would unload a lot on sharp 180* turns i could see the inside tire just balloon up.

its also a possiblilty if your getting short tire life that your using the wrong tires or too soft a compound.

hyper7vspec

iTrader: (9)

do the cnc mp777 rear hubs fit the hyper 8?

KK-racing

iTrader: (5)

Hi tex1 & Rocket42

Thanks for you guys' comment & advice.

tex1's explanation is clear & very informative, will try out the 3/4/4 set-up. Rocket42 got a point there also as I used 'Hong Nor' soft(rather soft) compound 'x,=' pattern tires.

KK-racing

iTrader: (5)

Have not tried or check that out yet. But the front standard casted steering knuckle fits perfectly & last much longer & cost much lesser. But unfortunately is much heavier also.

motomanpat

iTrader: (2)

I have a question for you guys even though is has to do with my motor and glow plug rather than the car.I have a D-cell glow ignitor which has always worked really good with my RC10GT.I have been using it now on my Vspec and noticed that I am going through alot of batteries,kind of strange.Is it that the turbo plug uses more juice or what?Also thank you for the info on the difference of going heavier on the rear fluid.I really like the way the car drove but I think it would be helpful in the future to have less rear wheel spin.On a high note I managed to get the filter and body to work good enough to go race this weekend.Man I can`t wait but I think I first need to go right now and take it apart to clean and make sure everything is tight.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure about the glowglug thing. Seems like you have a leak where your battery drains when your ingniter is stored. Turbo plugs shouldn't need any more juice. At least not in a way you would see a difference in battery life.

The heavy oil will lock in your rear end. It will be much easier to drive this way. You might try a different tire. I like the Med Soft Panther K2s. See what your local fast guys are running and go from there.

Glad this stuff helped,
TEX

Rocket42

hyper7vspec racing i don't know if you can get them in australia but there are currently aftermarket parts for the hyper 8 including alumn. rear hub carriers and even shock towers they are made in the u.s. by the company that made all the pcr parts, the rear hub carriers are black and they come in the 0,1,1.5 rear track widths so you just pick the rear track width that you like i believe they are around $50 u.s. and can be found at nitrohouse.com, i have also heard that you can run the hyper 7 alumn. rear uprights as well as the racers edge rear uprights.

KK-racing

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for your suggestion Rocket42. But I do not like to upgrade to those alum. parts unnecessarily as they will add weight to the bug, not to mention burn a hole in my pocket as well.
Your set screw method works well on the rear upright, though it tends to loosen itself occassionally & requires retightening. On this note, do you guy experience the wing support mounting self-tapping(tried machine screw also) screw loosening itself after every tank ?. The same seems to happen to all brands like Kyosho, Mugen & even Tamiya 1/10 EP Dark Impact !. Any good remedy ?.