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Old 07-24-2006, 02:53 PM   #406
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motomanpat don't worry about any play in the front of the car you will not notice it while your driving. to set your mesh its best to get 2 sheets of paper and put those between the gears and tighten it, then you usually have perfectly set gear mesh when you take the paper out.

one quick tip you will notice on the front upper arm there is a clip in either the front or the rear of the front upper arm, that clip is for changing the front kickup angle. what you need to do is remove the clip then work the suspension without the shocks on and see where that upper arm seats on its own. when you work the suspension if it seats to the front or the rear then replace the clip so that it holds the upper arm where it likes to be. if the clip is in the wrong location it will bind your front suspension.

kjuliussen i believe there is an improvemnt in having big bore shocks but i don't think the jammin big bores are the way to go as they limit uptravel slightly.

as far as bumpy tracks 1/8 tracks all get rough and sometimes you will have to adjust your lines to be faster around the track. I usually finish better on a rough track than a smooth track. and rough tracks are all about finding the fastest line which genrally isn't the inside, you also have to be ready to change up lines in the middle of a race. so during practice run the whole track and try other lines not just the inside it will help you in your mains. I can tell you that i have been on a very rough track it was so rough you couldn't hold full throttle down the straight. the only change i considered but didn't make to my car was to run stiffer springs, most people will tell you the opposite soft in rough. but the problem i had on this track was when i tried to run pinned the car would get sucked down into the bumps and stiffer springs would have kept me on top of the bumps and able to be on the throttle more. so if this track is giving you the same problem i say switch to a stiffer spring all the way around. mugen greys will work but if you can find something a little softer than those you may want to go that way.

i haven't changed my setup from the one posted but i haven't been to the track in a while, but where i race the setup works great.
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:08 PM   #407
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What engines does the pipe actualy work realy well with?
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Old 07-24-2006, 07:18 PM   #408
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very few people will be able to answer your question because most people take off the stock pipe and run an aftermarket pipe, i was told the stock pipe is similar to a 086 or top end pipe.

if you seriously want the most horsepower out of your engine look into a pipe that was made for it or any of the new three chamber pipes will be good i am sure.
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Old 07-24-2006, 07:28 PM   #409
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Not to try and cause a dipsute Rocket, but I had read somewhere the stock pipe was more of a low-end pipe...???

Whatever the case may be, I can say that I am very pleased with the RB S5 I have been running with the stock pipe. I have had some tire kickers stop by the pits a couple of times to see "what I was running in there"...lol.
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:12 PM   #410
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Red face Change the pipe.....

It only works well with over powered motors. You got one you want to tone down?? The stock pipe is for you. You change to anything else and you will see a dramatic difference.
It seems to be better on the bottom than anything. I'm running a true .086 now and it makes more power everywhere. It looks like an .086 but is like a choked down JP-1. Your car will drag bricks on the straight away.
I'm running an S3 with a Works conical med header and a .086 pipe and it will run with anything on our local track. 6.5 mm insert gets me 9-10 minutes on a very slick track that does not hold rubber.
Running a short header wakes it up as well for those of you on a tight budget.
<---- not done yet!

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Old 07-26-2006, 03:03 PM   #411
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Tex-

Who makes the 086 Pipe you are speaking of? I run a hot mod T12BF and my Nova 9886 pipe has dented so much, its so thin. I would like to get another 086 pipe, as I think its a great match for my mill.
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Old 07-27-2006, 12:53 AM   #412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KK-racing
Rocket42 is right, but don't ditch the alum. radio cover. Keep it strictly for photo taking session. Our retailer did not bring in the plastic version parts,
so I took my frustration out on this alum. cover 'real hard'.
Will post a pic. to show what I meant when I have the time.
Here's the pic of the radio box cover I promised you guys. Used my copper-tooling skill to get the shape I needed to fit in my 'AA' pack.

And some ideas of what the Proline's molded insert looks like after 2 races.
Was rather disappointed that my email to them on this issue was ignored up to this day. Not expecting any reply as previously they responded promptly to my feedback on their pre-glued tires coming off easily, with the assurance that future batches will have 'Q.C.' checked label ensuring it won't happen again. Alas things didn't change, as they still are coming off.
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Old 07-27-2006, 05:14 AM   #413
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Thumbs up 086 pipe

I run the OFNA 086. You can run a short header on it and it still breaths well. It will keep the wheel spin to a minimal but the mid and top is crazy fast.
Novarossi makes one as well. They are almost exactly the same.
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Old 07-28-2006, 04:09 AM   #414
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What is everyone running for clutch setups?

I currently have an S7 in my H8 with shaved H8 carbon shoes and Mugen 1.0 springs and it is soft on the bottom.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:58 AM   #415
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Im running a Peak V6 adjustable clutch, the take up point is fully adjustable, its an awesome clutch.
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Old 07-28-2006, 11:41 AM   #416
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jeel switch to 1.1 springs and try, if its still soft on bottom drill a hole thru the clutch shoe. 7 port engines are not known to be punchy on bottom so you need the clutch to engauge later in the engines power band. it will never have as much bottm as a 3 port but it will be better if the track is rough because you will get less wheel spin and be able to drive smoother
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:10 AM   #417
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Hey Guys I`m back,

Well I started to put this awsome machine together but have run into some problems.Had some issues with the throttle/brake linkage(no servo clearance) but it is all good now.My next issue is with the shocks.I have tried to bleed them properly but have failed to get them where I think they should be.It either comes out to far or pushes itself back in.I just can`t find any happy medium.So if you guys have any tips for me I would greatly appreciate it as I would like to break this baby in on Sunday.
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:13 AM   #418
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Sorry I guess I should explain my issue better.The shaft either comes out to far or pushes itself back in or both!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-29-2006, 07:19 AM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomanpat
Hey Guys I`m back,

Well I started to put this awsome machine together but have run into some problems.Had some issues with the throttle/brake linkage(no servo clearance) but it is all good now.My next issue is with the shocks.I have tried to bleed them properly but have failed to get them where I think they should be.It either comes out to far or pushes itself back in.I just can`t find any happy medium.So if you guys have any tips for me I would greatly appreciate it as I would like to break this baby in on Sunday.
On the throttle linkage.. my advice there is toss the stock linkage out and go get the dynamite pro linkage.. 9 bucks and it's much more convient to adjust, etc. But just for clearance, are you trying to use a flat servo arm? If so that will rub on the brake side pretty much no matter what you do.
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Old 07-29-2006, 09:09 AM   #420
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The shocks are just by feel....and they are different with every car/truck. Just be patient, and keep working with them till you get them right. After a few times of rebuilding, you won't hardly have to think about it and you'll get them filled right pretty much the first time...

Brad
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