R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-21-2006, 08:22 AM   #391
Tech Master
 
crabboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,999
Trader Rating: 58 (98%+)
Default

Ok ran the hyper 8 tonight not to bad, the next question that someone may be able to help me with is diff oil, putting in different weight oils what does it do.
The track we run has a dusty layer on it, and the rear end appears to be a bit loose, should I put in heavier diff oil, I have 2000 in there at the moment.
Thanks guys.
__________________
Rhys Marshall.
crabboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 08:27 AM   #392
Tech Elite
 
Tabushi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chile - Southamerica
Posts: 3,029
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Tabushi Send a message via Yahoo to Tabushi
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crabboy
Ok ran the hyper 8 tonight not to bad, the next question that someone may be able to help me with is diff oil, putting in different weight oils what does it do.
The track we run has a dusty layer on it, and the rear end appears to be a bit loose, should I put in heavier diff oil, I have 2000 in there at the moment.
Thanks guys.


Mhhhh ... i race a Jammin but i usually get practice time with a friend who race Hyper 8 and on a dusty track he is using 3.000 - 5.000 - 1.000 diff configuration ...

Hope this helps ...
__________________
Patricio "PATO" Concha

E-Mail : pato_concha@yahoo.com
Facebook : http://www.facebook.com/patoconcha
Whatsapp : +56 9 66165085
Tabushi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 11:11 AM   #393
Moderator
 
WYLDTHING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Justa passin through.......
Posts: 4,538
Trader Rating: 148 (99%+)
Default

I run an H8, and on a high bite track, I have been running 3-3-1 and love it, but last weekend, the track was dry slick, with a powder on top(see pics on last page), and I changed over to 3-3-2. It helped calm the rear end down on acceleration which is what I was looking for. As slick as the track was, I almost pulled it back out and changed to 3-3-3, but stayed with the 3-3-2, and the track came to the set-up. However, I like PLENTY of steering!!!...lol.
Their's 2 things that really frost my butt.....1, an R/C car that won't turn, and 2, a snowcone about 3 foot high...

Hope that helps...Brad
__________________
<>< JESUS IS MY HERO! ><>

==TEAM NOVELTY==
WYLDTHING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2006, 01:07 PM   #394
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

I'll just highlight some of the things you should consider while you are building.
1. place 1/8" spacer under the outside of the steering linkage and locktight the screw.
2. Shim the servo saver post. They will be very sloppy in the kit.
3. shave the middle nipple on the right side guard. It will hit your throttle servo.
4. Be ready to do the 4mm screw & nut modification on the wing. Every one I have seen has pulled out.
5. Make sure your motor does not hit the chassis or you will break the motor case.
6. Get some stiffer springs.
7. Might want to put an Xray tank in your box as a back up. Every tank has broken here in Texas.
8. Take your droop screws out and grind them flat so they do not dig into the chassis.
9. Get you a long Steering servo horn to get max steering.
Have fun,
TEX

i agree with everything here except the stiffer springs. the problem people have with the stock springs is they try to run the ride ht. too low. use the spacers i included in my setup and it will work fine.

also no need to buy an x-ray tank as the tank problem has been resolved and the new cars all feature the revised tank. how you can tell which tank you have is the old tank is see thru, very clear. the new tanks are a softer plastic and are not see thru. the new material looks like all the other tanks currently on the market.

carbboy generally speaking on loose slippery tracks you use lighter diff oils and heavier diff oil on higher traction tracks.

lighter in the rear will give you more cornering traction as the rear end will not slide out as easy. but on tight turns this can be too much and make the car hard to whip around. heavier oil will allow the rear end to slide around easier and it will reduce wheelspin on the unloaded tire (inside rear tire)

i think you should try 1k rear diff oil i started with this and i didn't like it but others have. the problem i had was on tight turns i would whip the car around and i could see the inside rear tire balloon then when the weight tranfers and that tire hit the ground it would grab or slip inconsistantly. and if you feel your having the same problem switch back to the 2k or 3k. after you try this and are still having problems with the car we can look into making other changes to get more rear traction.

the problem could also be in the front of the car if you check my setup it says if the car has too much steering to stand the front shocks up 1 hole on the shock tower. i think that may really help you.

it just goes to show you how different tracks cause so many different affects on the same setup, this setup works for me but for most it pushes and now for some its loose. the hyper 8 is a car that has to be and can be fine tuned for every driver and every track. whats going on in this thread is great because not too long ago people where asking what to do to make there car handle better and those same people are now able to offer advice and help others with the knowledge they have gained from trying different settings on there cars. and with all are help the car will soon be the car to beat at the club level.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 08:55 PM   #395
Tech Regular
 
Panther's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Marietta, OH
Posts: 394
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Panther
Default

Russ,

First off, thanks for your genuine help on this thread and the ofna thread. This is one of the main reasons I picked up a Hyper8 again. I was going to get a Lost 8ight, but just like with every other first run of cars, things will be changed and I can have this car now and drive the guts out of it

Anyways, attached are photos of my car.

Secondly,

I applied your setup to my car, in the handling portions of the track I was very comparable with all the other cars. However, when it came to jumping the car it was very inconsistant and had a horrendous nose dive. Sometimes it wasn't as worse as the dive before hand, but nonetheless it was what kept me out of contention. My idle was set properly as well as my brakes.

I'm gonna go through the car throughout the week and get everything perfect on it and make sure that I didn't have anything off. Any insight would be very helpful. Thanks!

-Seann
Attached Thumbnails
Ofna Hyper8 stingray-1.jpg   Ofna Hyper8 stingray-2.jpg   Ofna Hyper8 stingray-3.jpg  
Panther is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2006, 05:37 PM   #396
Tech Elite
 
motomanpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,180
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hey Guys I`m back,

Well I am starting to put the H8 together today.I decided to take the rear diff apart to make sure it has diff fluid and not grease.It did have diff fluid in it just to let you all know.I have some questions for you guys.I started to install flywheel(Collet,flywheel,and nut) it seems that the collet sits right against the rear engine bearing when I tightened it down,is that a problem or am I just second guessing myself.Next issue was I started to install the pads and springs but noticed that I was not going to catch the spring on the nut at the right place(on the corner instead of the flat of the nut).Next question Whe I opened the clutch package it seems that the are extra spacers and a some very small lock washers(in the manual it does not show to use these anywhere in that area)Do they go somewhere else or just extra spacers)Sorry for the idiot questions but when I build something I like to go by exactly what is written or what the pictures show.
motomanpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2006, 05:58 PM   #397
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

hey pantha this is russjones42 from the ofna thread and i answered your question about the nose dive there. also the picures you posted show a completly different setup than i posted at least with shock locations.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2006, 06:05 PM   #398
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

motomanpat i think i remember when i was assembling my clutch that i actually ground down the collet fro the flywheel so i could tighten it without it hitting the engine bearing. you may just want to get a different collet. about the clutch i don't really understand what you mean but the carbon shoes should just slide on without using washers on the flywheel. the spacers in your clutch bag or extra just hang on to them. also it will help to use a little sand paper on the inside of the clutch bell so it isn't as smooth.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2006, 06:12 PM   #399
Tech Elite
 
motomanpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,180
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hey Rocket,

I was not planning on using any washers on the flywheel or clutch shoes.I guess I just need to get the flywheel in the right spot so the springs hit the flat on the nut.I am not sure about the collet or if it will be a problem in the future if left that way.Thanks for your tips
motomanpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2006, 07:20 PM   #400
Tech Elite
 
KK-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Coordinates - 121'44.88"N, 10354'17.34"E
Posts: 3,456
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Hi motomanpat

I would say you guys are luckier than me. When I got mine last December as a Birthday & Christmas & New Year & Chinese New Year present, all the 3 diffs. came with grease. Now you imagine what you need to do to change then to diff. oil.

All I can remember was the only spring washer that came with my kit was the 04 pcs M3 spring washers and they are for the engine mounting. As for the flywheel mounting collet, it is normal for it to be sitting on the front bearing's inner ring.
__________________
Do 'IT', with a DUREX (safely) !!!
KK-racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2006, 02:17 AM   #401
Tech Elite
 
motomanpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,180
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Well I did get the flywheel,clutch pads mounted just needed to look at it for awhile.It seems that there is a little bit of bind in one spot on the center diff and the pinion but I will just set the gap a little wider and I am sure it will be ok.An old friend stopped by so I had some beers and it will have to wait for the AM.
motomanpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2006, 02:18 AM   #402
Tech Elite
 
motomanpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,180
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Well I did get the flywheel,clutch pads mounted just needed to look at it for awhile.It seems that there is a little bit of bind in one spot on the center diff and the pinion but I will just set the gap a little wider and I am sure it will be ok.An old friend stopped by so I had some beers and it will have to wait for the AM.I did notice that there is alot more play in the front arms/hinge pins than in the back!!!!!!!!!!!
motomanpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2006, 12:36 PM   #403
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3
Default

THESE POSTS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED.

Please refrain from advertising for different forums or websites. Thank you.

Last edited by Aaron Waldron; 07-24-2006 at 08:39 PM.
rovhyper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2006, 12:40 PM   #404
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 318
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Stop spamming.
NP-1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2006, 01:03 PM   #405
Tech Apprentice
 
kjuliussen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norway
Posts: 81
Default

@rocket42

I have the same setup as you, Works great.
The track i raced on yesterday was bad and bacame even worse after qualification. the track was wery bumpy with big holes in the track. As a Electric touring driver i get better result on a smother track,
but on really bumpy tracks. i have trouble. I've heard that European tracks are more bumpy than in the U.S.

So Is it to hard shock oil in your setup for bumpy tracks?

And is the big bore shocks any better or are the improvemnts minimal?

I'm not sure i have your latest setup, so can you post it agian or refere to wich page it's on?

Btw. I use the stock blue springs..

What do you think?
kjuliussen is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hyper8/8.5 Dietz R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 13 12-31-2007 09:04 PM
hyper8/8.5 parts Dietz R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 10-23-2007 07:26 PM
hyper8 pro dwillard R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 08-03-2007 01:47 PM
WTB!!! Hyper8 or CL-1 or XB8 TQ ttr_racer R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 05-22-2006 08:48 PM
777 SP1 Vs. Hyper8 IronTusk Electric Off-Road 4 03-26-2006 04:24 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:35 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net