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Old 07-16-2006, 01:46 PM   #361
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i do not have a setup station i make all my adjustments with a rpm camber gauge and rpm toe in gauge. off road is not as precise as on road and i don't think the setup stations are neccessary. but it would be nice to have.

before you order tires find out what the fast guys are running at your track, tires are the most important part of a properly set up car. find out what the fast guys use and buy those. make sure whatever tire you get you use soft molded foam inserts, the regular foam will not last anywhere near as long as the tires will. so go with either panther or proline liek i said i think pro lines will give you a little more performance at the cost of tire life and panther will give you a little more tire life.

the wrong tire in the wrong compund will not last very long and will not work very good, and tires are expensive so don't blow your money on the wrong ones.
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Old 07-16-2006, 02:05 PM   #362
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Hey ROCKET,

I have a RPM camber gauge so I`m good there but I don`t have a toe-in gauge.I looked online at the RPM toe-in gauge but the one I find says it`s for 1/10 scale.Does the 1/10 one work for 1/8 scale?
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Old 07-16-2006, 04:54 PM   #363
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yeah the one that says its for 1/10 wil work for 1/8
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Old 07-17-2006, 01:18 AM   #364
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Hi Rocket42

Here's my report on yesterday race with your basic set-up, but with a few differences due to some *constraint as follows :-

Rear diff oil - 1k
Front upper 'A' arm - lower hole on shock tower
Rear camber link - second hole from inside, below up
(*was over-enthusiastic in drilling the new hole you recommended & to get longer camber link distance, drilled the hole too far away & too near the bulkhead. So you know the consequences. )

Well, this round we had almost 50 drivers turned up, including a few top drivers who were not around previous race. It started off with a hot sunny morning that then rained buggies & trucks all of a sudden, resulting in a 2 hours delay & the heats changed to 10 mins X 2 run only, instead of the usual 7 mins X 3 run. The track layout was almost the same as previous race with the only exception of a small ramp being removed. Unfortunately, I was kicked out of 'A' main to 'B' main but in starting grid 1(so near & yet so far ) in this race due to my not so perfect driving skill. Here's my final results compared to previous race :-

18 June 16 July
Best time Best time
Run 1 46.000 42.404
Run 2 44.542 42.983
Run 3 44.441 -
Final 43.469('A' main) 42.043('B' main)

Obviously your set-up is much better in reducing my lap time, thanks to you again. However, I am still not getting the desired steering response & will try the rear Ackerman hole as suggested by you next. It was not done during this race to avoid too drastic a change at one go.

Regarding the tires & insert, I am afraid I have to disagree with your opinion as I used a new set CF with the M3(soft) molded insert in this race. During the second half of the final, it was noticed the bug becoming unstable resulting in traction rollings & unexpected flips. A check revealed one of the insert was torn into two inside one tire & another was in bits & thrown to one side of the tire. My other old set CF with M2(medium) molded insert still has it's insert in perfect condition, whilst the tire's thread has already worn off. Heard from one of the overseas neighbouring racer that it was highlighted somewhere in the internet on same issue as well. There were complaints that molded insert is good only for one race.
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Old 07-17-2006, 10:23 AM   #365
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well kk you do seem quite a bit faster around the track and thats good. i have not run the m3 crimefighters only m2. also the proline molded foam has had some issues that i have been told has been worked out with the newer foam i'am afraid you ended up with a old batch. i would contact pro line and tell them what happened and how many runs you have on the tires.

tell me a little about your track and where the steering problem is, is it on power or off power. is it rutted or smooth. is the track tight or open.

from your post it really sounds to my like the problem is in the droop screws. chewed up foam should make your car inconsistant but it shouldn't cause traction rolls or unexpected flips. so i am thinking you have too much droop in the car.

i don't have a droop gaug to give you a measurement but i got out my calipers and measured how far the droop screws stick out past the a-arm on the underside of the car. my rear droop screws stick out 4mm below the a-arm and my fronts 3.75mm now remember this is not an exact measurement and my chassis is very dented from the screws. but i think that may help you guys with the setup cause when i say dial in a lot of droop i mean it.

remember you want at least 2mm more droop in the rear so the weight can transfer properly in the turns. you may need to dial in more for your track 5-6mm more.

all you may need is to take 1mm out of front shock preload.

so get back to me and we will have that buggy dialed in no time.
i would change that front camber link back to the top hole at the track next time just so you can feel the difference. you may want to get a practice day in at the track as well to do some testing and we can talk first about what you will want to test.

looks like your closing in on that 41 second mark, what class are you racing and what is a best lap time for your local pro's, give the car some time to learn it as well
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Old 07-17-2006, 11:07 AM   #366
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I have been amazed at how much droop screw adjustment effects the handling of the car....amazing!!!!!
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Old 07-17-2006, 05:19 PM   #367
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Good show Wyldthing. Glad you had fun.
The H8 is very responsive to little adjustments such as toe and droop.
A little move on the wheel base and Ackerman setting will do this as well.

FYI - The Proline M3 tires have had issues with the Grey foams. They do tear inside of the tire. You will roll hen the rim digs in and grabs where there is no foam.

I have sent back 2 dozen sets of one run Proline M3 tires.
They have said they will take care of them.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:02 PM   #368
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Thanks tex1!

It was a blast!! I hadn't ever raced on those kind of track conditions before, so it was a huge learning (set-up and driving) experience as well!!
Definitely had fun!!, and one thing about it, even a bad day of racing, is still better than a good day not racing...lol.

Still no results posted on the site yet, hopefully they will get them up soon!!

Won't get to race for at least 2 weeks now due to the school and work schedule...I'm one of those old-fart back to college guys....lol.
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Old 07-18-2006, 02:20 AM   #369
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Sorry Rocket42 if I did not make myself clear as I was referring to the molded insert comes in soft & medium & they are both in the same grey colour ! You can only tell by pressing them to feel the density & get another guy to press & confirm your hand-feel is correct. Even the retailer was not aware there's this difference & had them tires with mixed density insert stacked together. We only have M2 CF available here as M3 is known for fast-wearing, thereby no demand for them.

I couldn't trace back the pics of our whole track or a bigger view. Hope the attached pics give some idea. You can see it has loose top layer on most section & small stones embedded as well. It's not that technical but the layout will be changed every 2 races & is approximately 50m X 40m in size. The steering will push on power, which really slows down every corner turning pace.

Yes, I guess the droop is the main cause of my downfall from starting pos. 1 in the final to drop to 5th finish. I gave it up to about 5mm more droop in the rear for the final's set-up from your basic set-up as I noticed the rear end seemed lower than the front. Initially it was set till the arm was almost level. It was also partly prompted by my Hong Nor & Mugen buddies comment that they always go full droop. They even go to the extend of removing the grub screws !. It was also observed that the top driver always run with a lot of droop on his X1CR.

Well, we don't run by any kind of class over here as it's always an open race whereby novices to pros race together. In fact, all of them pros we raced with will be going to the World Race next month. The best lap time in the recent race of the TQ & pro is 39.721 secs., with the average of the majority other racers around 41~42 secs..

Thanks tex1 for your confirmation on the Pro-line molded insert problem. Now I have a big headache what to do with the other 3 tires as I am gonna keep away from those molded insert. It has never happened to my other sponge insert tires before.
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Last edited by KK-racing; 07-18-2006 at 02:45 AM.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:11 AM   #370
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Wink No problem....

Glad we could get that straight for you. Just box them up and send them to Proline. Some new ones will come in soon enough. It is better than just letting them collect dust.

Droop is a funny thing. It affects the cars ability to deal with weight transfer and hold corner speeds. On a loose loammy type track you can run just about anything. On a tight, high bite surface with ruts is where you see droop used more effectivly. It keeps the car from catching edges when the suspension is high in its travel. Your car will get more predictable and hold lines much better.

Word of caution. Running full droop without screws in 1/8 buggy is a bad thing. You will blow out shocks and knock ends off them. What happens is when you hit an obstical or land in a bad wreck, your arms will tweak and extend. If your shocks are the only thing limiting arm down travel..... You get the picture.

Full droop is OK! As long as it is full droop to the stop screw and not the end of the shock. You have 2 sets of holes on your tower if you need them. Remember this will limit up travel.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:46 AM   #371
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ok kk here is what you want to do (thanks for the pics by the way) set the proper droop in the car and make sure the rear end comes up higher than the front (very important) when you have a good balance set never adjust just the rear. (never ever run this car with full droop your jammin buddies may but this car has about 15mm more of uptravel than the jammin buggy.) follow the example of the local pro as he runs with a lot of droop. if he has a droop gauge you could use his droop settings to get you in the ball park. just rember more droop in the rear.

i would keep the setup you have on the car but use the 22* caster blocks on the front that will give you the onpower steering that you want. also it will help make the front end stable and from the pics that won't hurt you on your track. you should have plenty of off power with the setup you posted. i think this is all you will need.

its good to test your car for every driving condition and testing will help you feel the differences you make. i'am glad the setup made you faster and pretty amazed it worked fairly good on the other side of the world.
things to test when you have time:
2k or 3k rear diff oil
8* front kick up.

i like heavier rear diff oil and i think its worth a try you may or may not like it.
your track seems to have some large braking bumps and more front kick up allows the car to go thru the rough better and adds to your caster to help with on power steering. i tried 7* on my car and the nose dropped way to much whenever i hit the brakes. i changed it back immediatly. but i think you should play with it and see how it works for you. you may want to go 8* kick up and back to the 20* caster blocks but just change the kick up first.

i think you will be set. so try that and lets hear a report.
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:00 PM   #372
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Well all I can say is BAD ASS.I got the kit UPS today and it looks so awsome.I looked it over and I think the quality visually looks great,I am suprised and very happy.Molding looks high quality and the design is very cool and I just love the layout.The only thing that I see so far that is a little cheesy is the radio box cover but hey it is flashy!.
I really wanted to thank all you guys for talking me into getting this buggy.I belive at this time I made a great choice to go with the H8.I am just going to have to wait for my M11 and my steering servo as it is lost somewhere in shipping.Hopefully the company that starts with T will be very proactive and get me my Sh676it.

So here is my list guys

HOBAO Hyper 8(frigin awsome)
O.S. Vspec
O.S. 2060 pipe
M11
Ofna Starter box
Airtronics 94357 & 94358 Servos
M2 Crimefighters

It will be a little while before I am able to get it put together and also get the motor broke in but hey thats ok that will give me more time to inspect and drool.I was kind of hoping I would have had it ready for break in by Saturday but no transmitter and no steering servo so I will have to be patient besides it is going to hit triple digits this weekend.So I will just hit the A/C and put as much of the kit together that I can all while staying cool.Thanks again ROCKET42,Motorman,Tex,WYLDTHING,you guys are the best!!!!
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:49 PM   #373
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where did you get it? I want to get one also. How much you pay for it?

At the meantime, I am selling a Evolva 2005. If anyone interested in a trade, plz let me know.
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:01 PM   #374
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Hey Silver,

I purchased some stuff here some stuff there.But the kit I bought from Tower ,and the kit was 429$ but if you spend over 225$ you get 30$ off so it was actually 399$ and I must say it is a smokin deal and so well worth it! Not only that but the guys here in this forum are so great and will help us every step of the way as they are also H8 drivers that belive in this car!
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:52 PM   #375
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motomanpat ditch the alumn. radio box cover, it will fade and bend really easy. put the plastic one on it looks just as good (trust me)

i kept the alumn. on for a long time and when it bent i bent it back and kept running it. then one day i said hey i'll throw this plastic one on just to see, and its been on ever since with a lot less headaches.
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