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Old 07-09-2006, 05:58 PM   #271
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ok sounds like my previous post was backwards. it sounds like your engine is a top end power producing engine but its producing enough power down low to engage the clutch, so its engaging and running and then the engine hits power band and spins the tires uncontrolably. i'am not familiar with the ttr clutch but it sounds like you would want to run lightweight shoes and heavy springs. my suggestion is to use the carbon shoes and drill a hole in them 1/8" then run the heavyiest springs you can. this will allow your engine to engage the clutch in its power band but the carbon shoes won't grab as hard as the alumn. then you will need to work on smoothing out your trigger finger. if your running on a tight track stay with the 12 tooth clutch bell but the 13 tooth may help smooth out the power band. its sounds like your pipe is set up for top end so you should be good there.

you want your clutch to engage at the beginning of the engines power band. so what will happen is you may initially spin the tires but then they will grab and go instead of hitting hard in the middle and breaking the tires loose at half throttle. try that and you should be good.
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Old 07-09-2006, 06:14 PM   #272
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Been there, done that...lol.I originally had 1.1s with carbon and that didn't work well either. I could pull the throttle 1/4 way, and during that neutral to 1/4, I would get no response from the engine. This wasted fuel in a BIG! way and Im sure wasn't too good on the engine. Now, as Im writing this, I just had an idea that might be the ticket. And it makes more sense than the add weight setup I mentioned earlier. Maybe what I need to do is go back to the 1.1s/carbon and simply use positive expo to get the servo to move quicker to 1/4 throttle or so. Hmmmmmmmm....Maybe Ill try fiddling...
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Old 07-09-2006, 06:29 PM   #273
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rather than changing the exp. its sound slike either some sort of linkage problem or the idle may be set to low. you could try also adjusting the trim on your radio. your idle should be set so that it almost engages your clutch. i have never had an issue of having that much throttle before engagement with 1.1 springs i used to run them reguarly. but not drilling the carbon shoes may help as heavier shoes engage sooner and carbons are genrally heavier than alumn. and its seems you have gone from extremes maybe 1.0 springs would be the ticket. you could just run the 1.0 springs with the alumn. shoes i have found that after a few runs the springs soften from the heat so i find its best to run a heavier spring as it may not be the best at first but after its been heat cycled a couple of times its still stiff enough to work properly. i run mugen carbon shoes and 1.0 springs on my p5x but i am gonna give 1.1 a try next.
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:04 PM   #274
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Rocket42

I gave up . Cannot find the post with pic you mentioned can be found in 'Ofna' site forum about the rear camber link new hole to be drilled. Could you kindly advise again where to find it & which nick did you use there.
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:49 PM   #275
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here you go
http://www.ofna.com/forum/viewtopic....r=asc&start=30

i go buy russjones42 on ofnas website
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Old 07-10-2006, 02:48 AM   #276
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Thanks for your prompt reply Rocket42. Greatly appreciated.

Like I always said - 'A picture paints a thousand words'.
However, I was actually talking about the rear camber link new hole to be drilled on the shock tower. Any pic of this mod.?.
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Old 07-10-2006, 05:19 AM   #277
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Here ya go... I have yet to try this myself...Im gonna rebuild the buggy during the week so maybe Ill try it now.

Last edited by NitroOB4You; 08-11-2007 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:52 AM   #278
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Hey all you H8 guys,
I was considering a H8 but now that I have read through all the posts I am rethinking buying one.Yes I can save a ton of money compared to buying a Kyosho,Mugen but if I have issues like the gas tank leaking,the linkage problems,shimming this or that and so on maybe it`s not worth the headache.I like the way the H8 looks but if I have to Jimmy everything what`s the point.I really don`t know what to do!I have saved enough cash to buy any platform and if I can spend less and have a great car that would be great.Any opinion would be greatly appreciated.

I have found a H8 for 399$ shipped
A MP777 SP2 for 619$ shipped
A Mugen MBX5 for 639$ shipped
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:12 AM   #279
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Bottom line, even the K,M, or X cars need some kind of love. They are all awesome fit, finish, and drivability...but there will always be some kind of hand fitting on any and all rc vehicles, especially when they've had a few gallons/batt packs through them. They H8 is in our opinion and for our driving skills and budgets, the best choice of all, or so we feel. I highly doubt that any of us would be THAT! much better ( or worse ) driving any of the "high end" buggies. If this is your first step into a buggy, save some beans and get the H8. Use the beans saved to buy track tires, fuel, tools, or whatever accessories you may need. I know it is a tough choice as I had the same one a few months ago...only difference being that I have been racing for a few years now. I wanted to try a different buggy than what I drove last summer. I seriously considered the K Prospec and the X TQ...in the end, see where Im at...and I am very happy I made this choice. My lap times are 3-6 seconds average faster and Im much more consistant than I was with what I drove last summer... all this and! Ive been having engine issues this summer, as noted in other posts here.Also, maintanence has not been needed nearly as often with the H8. One other thing..and this is not a criticism...just something to think about. Have you been posting on any of the other buggy threads? If so are you getting answers/replies? You've got at least 3 semi experienced racers here who will be glad to offer tuning help/advice. Granted, me personally, Ill offer what I can no matter what anyone runs...Im sure Rocket and WyldThang would as well.....
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:29 AM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomanpat
Hey all you H8 guys,
I was considering a H8 but now that I have read through all the posts I am rethinking buying one.Yes I can save a ton of money compared to buying a Kyosho,Mugen but if I have issues like the gas tank leaking,the linkage problems,shimming this or that and so on maybe it`s not worth the headache.I like the way the H8 looks but if I have to Jimmy everything what`s the point.I really don`t know what to do!I have saved enough cash to buy any platform and if I can spend less and have a great car that would be great.Any opinion would be greatly appreciated.

I have found a H8 for 399$ shipped
A MP777 SP2 for 619$ shipped
A Mugen MBX5 for 639$ shipped



Pimpin have you ever had a 1.8 before?

if so the H8 is the easies to drive and works great.

for one i have been a kyosho man from the Mp-6 days. i had all the kyosho buggy from the MP-6---Sp2 and some 2 or 3 of the same model.


H8:my times have dropped the moment i drove the H8 buggy.

one time before i drove for crono that only lasted 4 weeks and i sold both of them. long story.


The sp2 is going to take some time to get use to. I has super super steering and if you are the kind of person that drive with the wheels lock every turn i would stay a way from they Sp2. it will be as loose as goose and you will not like it.

Pro: it is builded like a tank and you can get help from others.

Mugen never own one. from what i seen they are tanks too.
don't turn as good as the SP2.

Pro it has been out for years.


H8. been out for 6 months... so there are things that need to be fixed.

Just like the x-ray. when it came out it was the buggy to have with no hop ups need. well in 4 weeks there was all kind of stuff that was need it. cut this cut that. move this move that.

in time the H8 will be great in the right person hands.

Pro:easy of changing set up is by far the easies i have own.

it is almost like a x-ray in that you can change the things you need without E_CLIPS..

and is jumps out of the turns like no other.

at one time i did not think i hand enough of bottom so, i put in a Jammin 48 spur b.c. that's what i ran in my SP2 buggy.

well it turned out i did not need it. i just need to change my clutch and bam bottom and top.

it works super in the rough part of the track.

tank wise you are tighting the tank down to tight.

i too broke a tank at money race and i was P.O.. made some calls and found out it was to tight on the tank posts. i even put some more fat O-rings on the top and bottom of the tank posted. when i want to get to the tank i just take off the screws from the bottom and not the top.


the rear hubs wear fast. i put hyper 7's on the rear works super. now that the new Hyper 8 CNC hubs are out i will add that to my list of things to get.

i liked the 1 off set.



First off if i was you i would ask to drive the ones you are looking at first.
see if it something you can work with.

Pimpin' it is all about feeling.

just b.c. Joe makes it look good does not mean you can too.

once you find that fit buy it. don't worry about cost, don't worry about Joe talking SH#$ about what you bought.

Feel is the key.

if you don't have a good radio get one first then a buggy. the radio will last you longer than any buggy you buy..

just Dibble food for you....

Dibs
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:30 AM   #281
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motomanpat. the gas tank issue has been fixed i saw in another thread that you came out to the pro series west round 2 at pats acres. i was racing my hyper 8 that weekend i was the only one out there with the hyper after garret shut his down. i told him he had the wrong setup on his car but he didn't want to listen the shock oil he was using was way to heavy. anyways i was there with my wife and son i had the black, white, blue, and red gold and green hyper 8 out there with the yellow spoked rims i finished second behind garret after a flame out around the 18min mark. maybe you might have seen my car run. this car does take some hand tooling but it can all be done in about 10min. and since you didn't have to build the car anyways your still ahead. but i can tell you the sale clincher right now. go to ebay and search hyper 8 you will find parts cheaper than you could imagine. chassis going for 27 buy it now price. try and get any other chassis for under 80. universals with a starting bid price of .99 tons of other parts at the same.

kk- sorry wasn't thinking but thanks nitro for posting

and nitro in your previous post you posted that you tried my setup and it pushed like a dump truck. this comment will make other people think they shouldn't try that setup but the fact is you didn't try the setup completely because you didn't have the rear camber hole mod done on your car. the rear camber hole mod is very important to the setup it makes the car more stable and it makes it not only turn better but carry more speed thru the corners. i know for the most part you were happy with the setup but camber hole locations are very important to a setup and they affect handling greatly as you will see if you try the front lower hole. it also makes it hard for me to help you improve your car if i don't know what setup you are actually running.
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:31 AM   #282
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Default Why should I buy (enter brand name here)

I am almost there just can`t decide which 1/8 off road to buy.So what are the reasons I should buy a particular brand in your honest opinion?I do know these are all good and have the potential to win with the right driver.

Kyosho MP777 SP2
Mugen MBX5 Prospec
X-RAY XB8
Ofna Jammin
Ofna H8
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:42 AM   #283
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motomanpat i can tell you it will be hard to run the hyper 8 in the northwest because no one runs them up there so you will be the lone man. (people will tell you that you would be faster with this or their car blah blah blah ) but i can tell you that i will answer any setup question you have about the car if you do buy it. and the setup i ran at a-main raceway was dialed and it is almost the same setup i had posted here. i tq'd one round of qualifiyng which was a great job against peter and garret. the top four drivers all tq'd a round of qualifying and i qualified 4th because of throw outs. i could of done better but had some serious trouble with lapped drivers (common in out of state tracks where people don't know your car, i'am sure most drivers moved out of peter and garrets way because they know them or know there faster.) so good luck in your decision
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:00 PM   #284
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no. 1 reason to buy a hyper 8
beating some one who spent $600+ makes the win that much better.

no. 2 reason
solid car at the track replacment parts are cheap.

no. 3 reason
car is as or more durable than anything on the track (see wyldthings comments above we all have stories like his)

no. 4 reason
car is a blast to drive especially when your down and you give it all you've got to catch back up and push the car for more than your worth.

no. 5 reason
car cost 399.99 shipped

no. 6 reason
you can find great setup information in this thread and i do my best to not only tell you what to do but tell you what changes do so you can change the car on your own.

no. 7 reason
car is a consistant a-main racer all over the world in the hands of less than hot drivers.

no. 8 reason
outdrives and universal are well built and last a long time, the weak link in the drive train (center alumn. dogbones) are cheap to replace $12 or less off ebay. they are what gives the car fast acceleration. i could clear the quad at a-main almost every lap consistantly.

no. 9 reason
car is extremely adjustable and everything is included.

no. 10 reason
its not the car its the driver so keep your cash or buy better gear i.e. more tires better engine better electric gear.

hyper 8 cons

stock tires are trash, and i think the stock rims are trash too but some guys like them. makes a good set of street tires for tuning or engine break in. but be prepared to order some rims and tires with the buggy.
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:07 PM   #285
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Rocket42

you for some


no. 11 reason
come pre builded. i love this. i hate spending 8 hours putting a buggy together to lazy. lol


no. 12 reason
you get a pipe and header


no. 13 reason

No e-clips


no. 14 reason
easy to drive
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