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Old 07-03-2006, 05:42 PM   #256
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Ya, it was fun!! The amazing thing was though, that I was driving the car really hard, but it didn't feel out of control. It didn't feel like it was on the edge, so I could've probably pushed it a little harder I suppose, but I didn't want to make a mistake and pipe it either...lol.
Matt is pretty good, but like I said he's not the top of the heap at the track. Neither am I for that matter (most of the time), but getting there.
To give you an idea of good lap times there.....the fastest lap turned on this layout this year was a 24.3 at the ROAR Electric Regional 2 weeks ago, and it was by a 4WD electric. The fastest lap this year by an 1/8 scale is 24.9. So I'm not too far off the pace of the best drivers that have been there this year. Plus the track always varies some....
As everyone knows, we don't have the depth of talent here in the Midwest that you guys do on the left coast, or the right coast for that matter, but the "fast guys" that we do have here, usually can stay in the ballpark with your best, most of the time. Obviously, the coasts are loaded with talented drivers.
Making the A in the Pro series state race would be great, but it'll just depend on who shows up.
One thing about it....after the health issues I had a few years ago, a day at the races, win, lose, or whatever, is still a GREAT day!!!

Thanks again for all your help, and I will keep you all informed of the buggies progress. Oh, and that was the first time my engine had EVER had ANY problem during a race, so it was strange. It was to rich on the bottom and it just loaded up in the night air I guess. Made for an exciting finish though....
I'll try the heavier diff fluid in the rear too....

TTYL...Brad
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:41 PM   #257
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wyldthing i looked up your servo the 94360 is the heat sink case high speed servo. the specs are 125 oz. in torque .07 transit time at 6 volts. this makes a very good throttle and brake servo but i would recomend the 94359. high torque servo for the steering application the specs on this servo is 200 oz. in. .10 transit time @ 6 volts.

if you don't want to spend the money right now see if you can borrow one from a friend and try it to see if it helps the car hold its line better at high speed. just some thing to consider.
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Old 07-04-2006, 04:08 PM   #258
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When I had a hyper 7 a few years ago when I first got into R/C, I had an Airtronics 94357 (which is the same specs as the 360, just without the heatsink case) in it, and it seemed to handle the torque of high-speed turns just fine. I do have a 94358 in the pitbox as my back-up servo, and it has the same specs as a 359 (no heatsink case), so I could put it in and try it, I suppose. I just really like the speed of the 360 now, and going to something slower will seem pretty sluggish...lol, but if it takes care of this last handling hurdle, it would be worth it. I'll swap them out this week and try the 358 this weekend and let ya know how it went.

Thanks, Brad
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Old 07-04-2006, 04:50 PM   #259
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the way the speed is rated on a servo is the time it takes the servo to travel from basically full left to full right. and the difference is 3 hundreths of a second. will be hard to notice.

you should just ask around at the track and see what the fast guys are running but i bet its the high torque for steering.
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Old 07-04-2006, 05:20 PM   #260
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Ya, I had talked to most of them about it, and they are mixed as far as what they were running. Different brands and speeds, and torque, etc...
I don't have the OFNA servo horn on my buggy, so it's not quite as long, but it's longer than one of the airtronics plastic horns that come with like the T4 kits and such. Kinda in between length I guess.

I know when I changed to a slower servo in electric off-road, it seemed very noticeable, even if it was just a few hundredths, but these bigger buggies would be harder to tell I would imagine, since "bigger" reacts a little slower typically anyway.
Regardless, I will give it a try and see how it goes. I should know before the big race gets here anyway....

Thanks again for your help, Brad
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Old 07-09-2006, 07:02 AM   #261
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Hi guys,
New to the whole nitro offroad game, got a hyper 8 running on a VERY tight indoor track and need more steering! I am running 40 weight oil in front and 35 weight rear with all piston holes drilled to 1.5mm what should I do? What would diff oils do? I have heard that some kits come with oiled diffs and some greased, is this true?
Cheers guys.
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Old 07-09-2006, 07:23 AM   #262
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Well, Here's my weekly report....lol.

I ended up not changing the 360 servo cuz I didn't have time during the week to do it, and was going to change over to the 358 when I got to the track, but a buddy of mine needed a better servo, so I loaned the 358 to him instead. No worries though, the car is now perfect on either condition (slick or high bite)!! All it takes is a minor tweak here or there to make it perfect for any track change, that I face anyway.
I went to 2k rear diff fluid, but ended up going back to the 1k after the first heat. I like being able to use the the throttle to bring the rear end around sometimes when needed, and the thicker fluid seemed to already be limiting that, so I went back.

On another note, I had some radio problems that REALLY tested the durability of this buggy!!!

I was in the middle of a heat race coming down the front stretch, wide open of course, and let off for the turn.......she just kept right on accelerating into the 1 foot high tubing at the end of the straight!!

It hit at about a 45 degree angle at about 40mph, and hit so hard that it went OVER the tubing!! Fortunately, the impact was enough to release whatever was holding the throttle wide open, so it didn't damaged my beloved S5. I went over and got the buggy, fully expecting to see the left side of the front end torn off....but could find NO damage, not even a bent shock shaft!! So, I was even more impressed with my hyper8 after that episode of believe it or not...lol.

Now, it's complete teardown time to get ready for the big race next weekend.....can't wait!! Were expecting some of the Midwests finest to attend, so it'll be a great test for me, and the Hyper8.....

crabboy;
Check Rocket42's set-up he posted a few pages back, I needed more steering myself, and his set-up plus a few of other changes that have been discussed over the last couple of pages, got me all the steering I needed, especially on high bite tracks.
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:30 AM   #263
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my friend has 2 gallon on hs H8
and all plastics, hubs arms .. have mms of play.....
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:33 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy2
my friend has 2 gallon on hs H8
and all plastics, hubs arms .. have mms of play.....
I guess I don't understand....are you bragging, or complaining???
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Old 07-09-2006, 02:26 PM   #265
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so wyldthing what was it that you changed it seems to me you ran the same setup you ran last week but this week it worked perfect. maybe i missed something. well good luck at the pro series race. make sure you tear the car down completely you may find something broken after all. or you may have warped out the front arm and may need to replace it. also make sure you check your hinge pins you may have bent one of those also. can't wait for the pro series report.

crabboy first we need a little more information to get you dialed in. there is a lot more to car setup than shock pistons and shock oil. best thing i can tell you would be to check a couple pages back for my posted base setup and use everything i posted but don't worry about changing your shocks and pistons just yet, just use the setup for everything else. i.e. shock location, caster block, ride ht., diff oil, camber link, etc. and remember this is a base setup it is not perfect everywhere. i went to the r/c pro race in oregon and used the same setup but made slight modifications the track was run dry and it had a broken groove high traction. so i lowered my ride ht. 1mm and turned my droop screws half turn all the way around. this is the type of change you may need to make to this setup or more for example wyldthing likes lighter rear diff fluid. you do not have to use this setup but it will be easier for me to help you make changes to the car because i will know where your at at what to do. it will also help if you could tell me a little about the track surface like what tires you run and if the track stays smooth or gets rough. hope this helps.
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Old 07-09-2006, 03:05 PM   #266
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Rocket;
It was basically the same set-up this week, just with the minor things I was trying as the day went along and the track changed. We tried running the first round of heats with just sweeping after practice, and no water, so the track was REALLY slick (especially for gas truck..lol). So during practice before the first heat, I was messing with making little changes to see how much the car reacted to each change. I first backed the rear droop screws out about a turn after I had tightened them last week when the track was high bite by the end of the night, then I added 2 small preload spacers on the back and tried it again. That was the same experience as before, it made it turn better, but made it more loose under acceleration than I like (and I like it a little loose). So, I took the preload spacers back out, and stood the rear shocks up one slot on the shock tower, and it was better, but still pushing a little bit, and I mean just a little.
So I went to the front shocks and leaned them over one slot on the front tower, and that was the ticket for me. It was perfect on the slick track. It was still consistent/predictable and stable (but as always, the track was smooth), and still flew well too.
After the first round of heats, we swept and watered, so I went back to the set-up that I brought it with, undoing all that I had just changed, and again it was great, except I changed back to the 1k diff fluid, and then it was perfect for me again.
In the third heat I had the radio problem and that was it. I changed the receiver pack, blew out my receiver, and changed the throttle servo, but it was still acting funny, and I didn't want a runaway and blow the engine up, so I put it away till I can get a new receiver for it this week.

The buggy is already completely torn down, cleaned, diff fluid changed, and on it's way back together in the front. The only thing I could find as far as damage from the accident, was strangely enough, a bent screw!! The long screw that holds the hinge pin bracket on the front of the diff, and holds the bottom of the diff together was bent slightly...strange!!! Hinge pins were still straight, and the rest of the suspension was still smooth as silk. So I couldn't find anything that was out of whack....
I'll post some pics later this week when it's back together, just for the fun of it....

So basically, it was the same set-up, just tweaked around a little bit for the changing track conditions. The good news is, now I have a set-up that will work in either set of conditions, and that's good, because we will take a vote next week on whether we water it or not...So I'm good to go either way....TTYL...
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Old 07-09-2006, 03:33 PM   #267
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Just got back from the RC Pro NE event at RC Madness. I didn't fair very well, unfortunately, but this was no reflection oon the buggy as I had an engine issue all w/end.I started 5th in the C Intermediate. At the start, going into the first turn, I had gotten to 3rd, but then got hit from behind and knocked off track. A lap later, the screw for the caster block fell out which allowed the dogbone to as well. All in all though, I am very pleased with the buggy. Im driving this much better than the buggy I raced last year.
I have been running the buggy pretty much stock except for diffs( 3-3-1 ) since I first bought it.Friday afternoon I decided to adjust everything on it acording to Rocket's posted set up. I was racing this w/end on a very tight, technical track. Very different from my home track. This track mostly favors Cubics, and sometimes CFs. All I had were KIIs Med Soft. With this set up and tires, it pushed like a dumptruck at low speeds.I changed back to the 22* Caster blocks ( which is probably why I lost that da*n screw , lol) and fiddled some with the droop. This made a huge difference. Im confident, that on that track, with my current set up and Cubics, I wouldve been on rails. Im also confident I can run exceptionally well on my home track as it favors KIIs. Now if only I could get my engine issues straight. Im running the O.P.S Power. This is mainly a top end engine. Ive got good bottom, but the problem I have with it is that once it gets on the pipe, it absolutely takes off like a B.O.H!. It is simply uncontrollable, especially on a tiny track like Madness. Im gonna look into getting the O.P.S Torque which is said to have awesome bottom control with plenty left on top. Anyway, just wanted to post how my w/end went and take a minute to thank you, Rocket. While I was getting around the track fairly well with the stock set up, I now have a baseline set up to work with, but also one that seems to have excellent potential.
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Old 07-09-2006, 04:21 PM   #268
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well nitroob4you your welcome and i would like to help you further finetune your car so. first to address the pushing the droop screws on this car are VITAL to a good setup and unfortunately i don't have a droop guage and was not able to include that in the setup. it is very important when you set the droop that the rear end droops at a min. of 2mm sometimes more below the fronts. the bigger the difference the more weight will transfer to the front.(some gauges like the mugen guage measure from the ground up and the number will show as a lower number in the rear than the front.) without having the proper balance of droop front to rear the car will not transfer its weight properly to the front outside tire and will make it push very bad especially at low speed corners where the car needs that weight thrown to the front to hold the line. I think it is also vital with this setup if you need more steering use the rear ackerman hole on the steering plate, on tight tracks that is definately the ticket. if you just change the rear ackerman hole i think it will help greatly.

i have had the same problem with the screw coming out and the fix for that is to use the red threadlock the blue threadlock will not hold the screw for some reason. but since i've gone to the red threadlock it has held solid ever since.

changing from 20degree caster to 22degree castor will take away off power steering into the corner so if this helped i'am assuming the push is on power. so my suggestion is. first change the ackerman plate, then you may want to change the front inside camber link and change it to the lower hole in the tower this will probably make the biggest difference. not only will it make a huge difference but it will help with on or off power steering.

i have played with standing the rear shocks up and it did help were i wanted it too i didn't like it anywhere else because it makes the car turn in better but it doesn't seem to hold a slide as well at least for me.

and lastly if your still experiencing a undrivable push after making those 2 changes my third suggestion would be to lay the front shocks down to the inside hole.

its sounds like you got the car close on your own so you don't need to change much i think if you just change your tires like you said and go to the rear ackerman hole you will be more than happy.

i hope this helps you guys and i really like to hear the feedback especially whether its positive or negative. this car is not like the jammin buggy where one setup works everywhere this car takes a little fine tuning at every track you go too (at least it has for me). but when you get it right it is so much fun to drive. but i'am glad to hear things are going good and i also like to hear results cause i got a feeling that i'am gonna start seeing wins more and more from you guys and thats good for the car and good to hear the hyper 8 kickin ass across the country.

i might have to give the 1k in the rear diff another try since you guys seem to like it so much.

one last note nitroob4you to tame that engine you may want to try lighter clutch springs. i don't know what clutch shoes your running but you may want to take the next step down i.e. alumn to carbons or carbons to teflon
either way a little clutch work to smooth out that power band and you will be good to go
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Old 07-09-2006, 04:50 PM   #269
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LOL!!! I had the same problem in practice with the same screw!!! Must've been bad knuckle screw karmha(sp?) nationwide for the H8 this weekend....lol.
Leaning the front shocks in after I stood the rear ones up seemed to help make the buggy more predictable for my driving style, and got the steering I wanted too, but you're right, just standing the rear shocks up to help it steer, didn't work to good for me either, until I leaned the fronts over too.

I can't tell ya how much I appreciate the help you have taken the time to give me on here Rocket. I have got the buggy to where I think I could get it "right" for just about any conditions now. I had (and still have) alot to learn about getting a 4-wheeler set-up great, but I now know soooo much more about it than I did several weeks ago!!

Thanks again, Brad

I'll hopefully have a full report after next weekend. Hopefully the weather will cooperate too!! TTYL...

Oh, by the way.....I have been running MGT clutch shoes with black OFNA springs in my H8. They seem to work well and last quite a while to. They don't fade or get too grabby either....
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Old 07-09-2006, 05:30 PM   #270
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I run the Thunder Tiger style clutch, which is different than your "normal" 3 shoe style, ie Mugen, Kyosho, or Ofna. I choose this because I ran that buggy last summer and simply got used to using them. I feel they are easier to place and remove. That being said, I have TTR .9 springs with Alum shoes and a 12 t bell. My pipe is an O.P.S, it is adjustable with spacers. I am running 3 fat, I think 2 mm thick, spacers. Now, lemme try to make something clear, cause it is hard to explain in words. I have good bottom end response, no complaints. However, the engine's powerband seems to be very late. When it does get into it, it has an ansanely fast response and top speed, even with the 12 t bell. I have thought about trying the carbons...since I do have them, but that isn't going to change the engine's powerband.One last thing I am considering. The TTR Alum shoes have two holes in them, Im assuming they're there to add weight? I think I may try to put some JB Weld or something in the holes and see if the extra weight combined with the .9s will help it get into it's PB sooner. Of all the people I know running O.P.S, there's only one other that runs the Power, everyone else swears by the Torque.
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