R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-29-2006, 11:14 AM   #241
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: So Cal
Posts: 21
Default

I have had mine for about 6 weeks, the sad thing is I have not been able to touch it. Maybe in a week or two.

I am taking notes though, and cannot wait to get on the SV track.
symbology is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2006, 12:59 AM   #242
Tech Elite
 
KK-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Coordinates - 121'44.88"N, 10354'17.34"E
Posts: 3,456
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket42
kk-racing i'am sorry but i don't know how to post a pic so i will continue to do my best to just describe fixes or changes. i will be ordering a droop gauge soon so i will be able to add my droop setting to my posted setup i think that droop has to be one of the most important setting son this car. also kk-racing if you have any questions feel free to ask and i will try to help. if your looking for somewhere to begin try the setup i posted it makes the car fast and consistant. it is a solid base setup that will put you within a couple of tweaks for your track.
Thks again Rocket42,

Talking about droop & it's important on Hyper8, how do you decide on the setting & how do you set it ?.
__________________
Do 'IT', with a DUREX (safely) !!!
KK-racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2006, 12:16 PM   #243
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

kk-racing well to decide on the setting you have to watch the car and look for a couple of things 1) do your rear wheels look like they have way to much downtravel when you go off of jumps. basically do they just extend way down when they unload. 2) is your rear end getting kicked around, or kicked high up in the air but your rear tires are still on they ground. 3) when you slam on the brakes does the rear lift to the sky.

droop is the best adjustment to counter traction rolling. if your car is traction rolling then you tighten your droop screws until it stops traction rolling. you have droop setting on the front and the rear of the car so you can also control handling by having more or less droop in the front than the rear and vice versa.

droop on the hyper 8 keeps the car lower and makes it more stable so you generally want to run almost as low as you can go. but too low will take away corner traction by not allowing the car to roll enough.

to adjust droop there are grub screws in all the a-arms these screws go thru the a-arm and hit the chassis the more you tighten the screw the more it pushes the a-arm up and takes away suspension travel (lowering the car). you will want to adjust each side (left and right) equally and i prefer to have a little more downtravel in the rear than the front. but you may want to go equal in front to rear and try each direction and then see what you like.

mugen seiki and proline both sell droop gauges with the mugen one being expensive and aluminum and the proline being cheaper and plastic.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2006, 10:34 PM   #244
Shop Owner
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 426
Default

Just want to let everyone that rc-toro.com starts carrrying Hyper 8 parts. Thanks.
toro_man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 09:38 AM   #245
Moderator
 
WYLDTHING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Justa passin through.......
Posts: 4,538
Trader Rating: 148 (99%+)
Default

Well, got to try the new set-up again yesterday....Definitely better! The caster blocks adjustment helped like you all said it would. It still had just a hint of a push on the high speed sweeper we have at the end of the frontstretch, but that was the only place, and that was also when the track was slick with the powder on top.
The track was a little different yesterday than normal after the first heat. It was being watered between rounds and had a lot more traction than what I had been racing on. Let me tell ya....THE BUGGY WAS COMPLETELY DIALED IN THESE CONDITIONS!!!! PERFECT!!! I had to take some of the droop out of it (about 2mm in the rear) to keep it from traction rolling from time to time. The buggy was literally on rails when there was traction!! Awesome!

On a different note, I did have the situation that was mentioned here earlier in the thread where the spur gear came loose on the center diff and moved forward till it was locked against the front of the hole on the chassis and had to be changed. Fortunately, I had just bought one last week, and it got here ON FRIDAY in the mail!! Talk about lucky. My day would've been over otherwise. OFNA needs to address this problem...

Overall a great day, set-up info was spot on!! Just need to get rid of the little push in the high-speed sweeper when the track is a little loose, and then it will truly be perfect!! But that's a pretty minor complaint!!! This buggy is incredible!

Thanks to all that have helped.....Brad
__________________
<>< JESUS IS MY HERO! ><>

==TEAM NOVELTY==

Last edited by WYLDTHING; 07-02-2006 at 10:28 AM.
WYLDTHING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 12:33 PM   #246
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

well brad i'am glad that the buggy was woking great for you. now to address that high speed push. first off let me say that it is very hard to make a car perfect at every corner of the track you generally set up for the majority of the track and will have to correct with driving style for some corners, that doesn't mean we can't fix it just that be careful not to sacrifice 90% of the track to try and improve 10%.

ok lets first address the problem at the servo, if your servo does not have a lot of torque it may not be holding the tires at speed. i don't remeber if you mentioned what servo you are running or not.

ok is the push at the start of the turn middle of the turn or end of the turn. are you on the throttle when its pushing. or are you braking or coasting.

also when you adjust droop screws if you have a good balance on the car adjust them the same all the way around. by just lowering the rear your keeping the rear from lifting up higher than the front which will put less load on the front outside tire. that may be how you solve the problem if the push is off power or after breaking when the weight tranfers to the front

i need to know the answers to the question cause at this point you only want to make small adjustments to the car so it stays dialed on the rest of the track, but i'am thinking its probably rear diff oil. try 3,000 and 1,000 and see what you like better, i personally didn't like the 1,000 cause it made the inside rear unload to much. but in loose conditions it may help. i will be trying 3,000 soon and tell you what i think.

also if you know there is a push you may want to just try and set the car up sooner for the turn. that setup your running will hold a very controlable drift. usually when i enter the turn after the straightaway i pitch the car almost sideways. i think that may work for you since you have the problem while the track is loose and the car works every where else.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 12:52 PM   #247
Moderator
 
WYLDTHING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Justa passin through.......
Posts: 4,538
Trader Rating: 148 (99%+)
Default

Ya, I know this is getting nit picky...lol. Just thought I would give complete, accurate feedback on all aspects of the day.
I definitely wouldn't want to sacrifice the handling around the rest of the track to get this part of it perfect, but this spot on the track is pretty crucial, cuz like most corners, if you drift a little wide, you'll probably get someone under you. this corner is a particularly good passing spot in regards to that.
I am running an Airtronics 94360 for a steering servo, so I don't think that would be an issue. As far as when it pushes....it always from the mid-point of the corner on. But typically, once it scrubs off some speed it does fine.
If I pitch it onto the corner hard, it will turn in great, but by mid corner, the rear-end has regained control and will start to overpower the front end a little, and will push ever so slightly. This corner of the track is the only one that you carry this much speed into, especially when their is more traction.
When the track was damp, I didn't pitch it in at all!! I could just drive it in REALLY hard, and the buggy just stuck, and turned better than anything I have ever driven!! And I mean carrying a TON of speed into the corner!!!
When I took some droop out of the rear, it helped a bunch with the traction roll problem, but didn't really affect the handling at all. I had quite a bit more droop in the rear than I did the front prior to that, so now they are about even after the adjustment.
Right now I am running 3-3-1 as far as diff fluid, so let me know how you like the 3 in the rear.
I agree that the car will drift with the best of 'em!! Very impressive in that category as well!!

Thanks again, Brad
__________________
<>< JESUS IS MY HERO! ><>

==TEAM NOVELTY==
WYLDTHING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 01:03 PM   #248
Moderator
 
WYLDTHING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Justa passin through.......
Posts: 4,538
Trader Rating: 148 (99%+)
Default

The corner in the pic is the one I am refferring to, and a few other pics of the rest of the track. It runs clockwise. The arrow is about where the car will start pushing, which, a little is fine to get set-up for the next corner, but I don't like ending up clear out against the wall. Basically, if I tried to carry to much speed in the 180 degree right-hander, I might have to tap the brakes, or let off to much to get it tight into that corner.
I also forgot to mention in the previous post that the push is completely off-power. Sometimes a quick hard blip of the throttle will actually bring the rear end around better.
This is all when the track is slick.....
Attached Thumbnails
Ofna Hyper8 stingray-nov-tech.jpg   Ofna Hyper8 stingray-5261.jpg   Ofna Hyper8 stingray-5262.jpg  
__________________
<>< JESUS IS MY HERO! ><>

==TEAM NOVELTY==

Last edited by WYLDTHING; 07-02-2006 at 10:15 PM.
WYLDTHING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 02:14 PM   #249
Tech Initiate
 
nsane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 32
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

<< Off topic for current point in the thread.. sorry >>

Has anyone tried / know if the Werks cluth will work in the H8 or does it require a flywheel change as well?

Thanks in advance.
nsane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 02:16 PM   #250
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

well thats a tough one. first thing i would do though is tighten the droop screws in the front so that the rear has at least 2mm more than the front. that will allow the car to throw more weight to the outside front and give it more traction. other than that i can't think of a alot else to do. i would recommend trying 2,000 wt. min. in your rear diff as that will decrease rear wheel traction while cornering and allow slide deeper into the corner.

i was studying that turn from your pic (thanks for that) and i think i would try to drive in hard at the end of the straightaway, and stay in a slide as deep into the corner as i could, if possible i would try to stay in a slide where your car starts to push, and that might be where your rear diff oil is not helping. then shortly after that point i would tap the brakes and hug the pipe.

hard to say what to do because your car is working everywhere else, but i say re adjust the droop, then try heavier rear diff fluid.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 07:23 PM   #251
Tech Elite
 
KK-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Coordinates - 121'44.88"N, 10354'17.34"E
Posts: 3,456
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the great tips Rocket42. Hope someone could come up with a better design than the current standard grub screw adjustment method that 'eats' away the chassis with every swingarm movement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KK-racing
2) the center lighten spur gear(option parts for Hyper7) aluminium flange ring
breaks easily, allowing the outer hardened gear ring to screw further in
& forward & jam into the chassis gear clearance slot.
Finally I have WYLDTHING's testament that this does & can happen, not only to me. The option of using Hyper7's steel spur gear is you get a much heavier spur & with pan-head mounting screw. Unfortunately, that's the only reliable way(changing a new spur every 2 races doesn't make any sense right ?) if you cannot afford this spur gear to let you down halfway through a final when you are leading the pack. Unless Ho Bao(that's our brand over here) look into this problem.
__________________
Do 'IT', with a DUREX (safely) !!!
KK-racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 08:46 PM   #252
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

kk- well i can tell you from personal experience that i have over 2.5 hours of mains not including practice or qualifying, and everything is box stock. my spur gear still looks brand new. i belive you need to contact ho bao and send in the defective part and ask about purchasing a new one. if you explain the problem to them nicely they might send you a replacement for free.

wyldthing one last thing how did you finish in your last race.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2006, 09:57 PM   #253
Moderator
 
WYLDTHING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Justa passin through.......
Posts: 4,538
Trader Rating: 148 (99%+)
Default

Rocket....I ended up winning, but not without some excitement......
We had a really light turnout yesterday due to the weather and chance of rain, so we only had four entrees in 1/8th scale, and 2 of them had problems right at the start of the main.
One of the guys (Matt) that is usually pretty fast with his MBX-5 prospec was there, but he isn't the top of the competition heap on a normal weekend. I TQ'd even though I didn't get to run the last qual due to the spur gear problem.
I had a little over a lap lead till lap 20 (15 min main) when I came into pit. We had one (unexperienced) guy pitting for all of us since the turnout was light, and we needed people marshalling instead. Anyway, he fueled me up and then it died coming out of pit lane!! After getting it re-fired (71 second lap!), I had lost the lead, and was behind about a half a lap (14 or so seconds) to the leader (Matt). I took to trying to chase him down and had gotten to within about 2 seconds of him when he wrecked over the triple, and I got by. Then he flamed out a few laps later and I cruised on in. I was driving the thing for all I was worth trying to catch him though. Turned out to be pretty fun considering the low turnout.
We have an R/C State Pro Series race there in 2 weeks, and I can't wait. Their is a chance that the Wheelers (Josh and his brother) will be there, as they were at the first round at DirtBurners in St Louis, and this is round 2.
I hope to at least make the A in that race, but it will be tough. We have some pretty good 1/8 scale drivers around the area, so we'll see. The buggy is capable.....the driver???....time will tell!
Here's a link to the results page from yesterday.

http://noveltyrc.com/mains07012006.html

I'll have to check into finding out where to send in the diff from mine too. I bought the buggy used, and from what he told me as far as his runtime, and what I've put on it, it's around 2-3 hours now on the buggy. So, maybe that's about the limit on the spur gear. I hope not though: these buggies are too awesome to have any weakspot.

Thanks again for your help!!
Brad
__________________
<>< JESUS IS MY HERO! ><>

==TEAM NOVELTY==

Last edited by WYLDTHING; 07-02-2006 at 10:24 PM.
WYLDTHING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2006, 02:53 AM   #254
Tech Elite
 
KK-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Coordinates - 121'44.88"N, 10354'17.34"E
Posts: 3,456
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Rocket42

You bet I did email them & to tell them NICELY it's a feedback & not a complaint. I also keep emphasizing I loved their wonderful new design bug , emailed 3 times & to date(3 mths later)..... still no reply.

Well, I have sorted things out myself with some mod. & it's working fine now. As a matter of fact, it's rather challenging(& fun, if you have the time !) when you are met with such problem & you do some homework to overcome them. Come race day & you have an added advantage over other Hyper8 owners.

Last race 2 weekends ago, with 40 drivers & only 3 Hyper8 drivers here, I qualified into 'A' main position 9 which I never could with my last Kyosho bug that I raced for 2 years. But then I finished position 9 also after 35 mins, from leading in 3rd position during the first 8 mins. when my @#*%ing mechanic forgot to call me in to top up fuel. Now I learned up there in 'A' main 1 mistake is enough & you go all the way down.
Well, next race will be a better one !(hopefully)
__________________
Do 'IT', with a DUREX (safely) !!!
KK-racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2006, 12:16 PM   #255
Tech Regular
 
Rocket42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 328
Default

wyldthing great news sounds to me like you should have no problem making the a main. a flame out with almost a 1 minute lead over second place. then sitting that minute in pit lane. making up 14 seconds to regain the lead halfway thru the race. if that guy matt is pretty fast your in the next league up.

i have had a lot of flame outs lately at r/c pro series west. and there doesn't seem to be anytime funner to run this hyper 8 then when you have the lead flame out and play catch up. the car loves to be driven that hard. i can tell you that after i got back on the track i just started railing the car and it just takes it, and holds the lines. best thing about the hyper 8 hands down.

change the rear diff oil you will be set. i didn't like the 1,000 wt. when ever i did 180 degree turns the inside rear would balloon up and then when the weight transfered back down it either grabbed or slipped inconsistantly. try the 2k or 3k in the rear.
Rocket42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hyper8/8.5 Dietz R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 13 12-31-2007 09:04 PM
hyper8/8.5 parts Dietz R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 10-23-2007 07:26 PM
hyper8 pro dwillard R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 08-03-2007 01:47 PM
WTB!!! Hyper8 or CL-1 or XB8 TQ ttr_racer R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 05-22-2006 08:48 PM
777 SP1 Vs. Hyper8 IronTusk Electric Off-Road 4 03-26-2006 04:24 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:31 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net