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Old 06-22-2006, 11:22 AM   #226
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What are you looking for a pic of? Something in particular?
TEX

just basiclly the whole buggy, i wanna see one with Big bore shocks... etc...
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Old 06-26-2006, 06:50 AM   #227
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Whats up guys I was wondering what would be the diference if I switch from the 22 deg. castor blocks to the 20 deg. What will be the mayor change on this change
thanks
With 22 deg. you have lesser corner entry traction = on power pushing, but you can shoot out of the exit while 20 deg. gives half of both.
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Old 06-26-2006, 06:59 AM   #228
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Thanks KK-racing
Norman
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:00 PM   #229
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Well, I got the buggy set-up and ready to go for this weekend again. Hopefully the weather will hold out....I'm running out of time to get this thing dialed in though. I've got an R/C Pro Series state race coming up in 3 weeks, and our Region 8 gas race in 5 weeks, so I'm hoping that the changes will help.
I'll keep ya all informed...I should say to all the people reading this thread, that the buggy is almost perfect, I'm just not willing to settle for "almost perfect" at this point...lol.
Again, I want to thank the people that have taken the time to help me with this little set-up project....
I appreciate the help, and the knowledge I have gained about getting these 4WD's set-up right.....

Brad
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:19 PM   #230
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Well, I got the buggy set-up and ready to go for this weekend again. Hopefully the weather will hold out....Brad
Seemed like it's the same over the other side of the globe as well - every weekends must hope for fine weather. And the worst is lately the weather seemed to have gone crazy & been pouring as & when it like over here, even during this dry season period. Hopefully the nitro from our fuel does not contribute to global warming.

Yes, once you get the Hyper dialled in, it can easily outrun any other more expensive bugs out there.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:40 PM   #231
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well wyldthing we will get you dialed by then. remember the setup i posted was a base setup. i ran it r/c pro west round 2 and finished second place after a flame out at the 18 min. mark. the track was run dry and developed a blue groove. so i took 1mm of shock pre load out of the car and tightened my droop screws 1/2 turn all the way around. car was hooked up. the track had a lot of tight turns and if i had to do it again i would have changed the ackerman location to the rear hole. so don't be afraid to adjust that setup to suit your track. but like you said its almost perfect and that means your only a couple of adjustments away.

norman2cycle there is a fix you can do to take play out of the rear hub carriers without buying alumn. drill out the rear hub carrier at each side of the hub carrier and screw in a grub screw to the hinge pin, that then presses the hub carrier tight against the insert and takes away all the play. the play actually developes in the hub carrier and not the insert but this will fix you right up for cheap.
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:07 PM   #232
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Originally Posted by Rocket42
well wyldthing we will get you dialed by then. remember the setup i posted was a base setup. i ran it r/c pro west round 2 and finished second place after a flame out at the 18 min. mark. the track was run dry and developed a blue groove. so i took 1mm of shock pre load out of the car and tightened my droop screws 1/2 turn all the way around. car was hooked up. the track had a lot of tight turns and if i had to do it again i would have changed the ackerman location to the rear hole. so don't be afraid to adjust that setup to suit your track. but like you said its almost perfect and that means your only a couple of adjustments away.

norman2cycle there is a fix you can do to take play out of the rear hub carriers without buying alumn. drill out the rear hub carrier at each side of the hub carrier and screw in a grub screw to the hinge pin, that then presses the hub carrier tight against the insert and takes away all the play. the play actually developes in the hub carrier and not the insert but this will fix you right up for cheap.
Hi Rocket42

Noticed you & tex1 are both innovative & helpful guys. It would be great if you guys could post pics to show what you suggested as 'a pic paints a thousand words'. You know something are hard to explain in words or from words it is hard to visualize.

Hope to change my signature to 'Fast driver lives longer' soon, with tips from you great guys.
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:19 PM   #233
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Hi Rocket thanks for the advised...I saw the mod of the hub carriers in the ofna thread and will be doing that. Other thing I really don't understand the mod of drilling the camber link hole in the rear shock tower!!! I am confused after you drill the hole if you use the new hole to put the upper arm in that position???? can you post several pic of the mod with some more info of what it does to the car.. Sorry if anything I said there doesn't make scense

thanks
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:06 PM   #234
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yeah norman i post as russjones42 on the ofna thread and i don't know how to post pics so a guy on the ofna website posted the rear hub carrier fix for me. there is also a pic of the rear camber link mod posted on the ofna forum. and yes you use this new hole to attach the ballstud too. you will also need to grind away your rear bulkhead slightly so that the upper link can move freely. it is not very difficult.

what this mod does to the car is it allows you to carry more speed thru the corners. basically the effect is the wheel stays flatter thru the suspension travel which will take away side bite. it makes the car slide better while cornering. it also has a added effect of making the car a little more stable. you can drive fast without doing this mod but you will be happy if you do it.

kk-racing i'am sorry but i don't know how to post a pic so i will continue to do my best to just describe fixes or changes. i will be ordering a droop gauge soon so i will be able to add my droop setting to my posted setup i think that droop has to be one of the most important setting son this car. also kk-racing if you have any questions feel free to ask and i will try to help. if your looking for somewhere to begin try the setup i posted it makes the car fast and consistant. it is a solid base setup that will put you within a couple of tweaks for your track.
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:36 PM   #235
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OK thanks Rocket for the info. But after you drill the new hole and screw the ballstud in the new drilled hole you would have to re-adjust the upper arm to achieve the desire camber setting or you just move the position of the upper arm in the rear hub? Can somebody that has made this mod post some more pics????
thanks
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:45 PM   #236
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yes norman you would have to re-adjust your camber at your wheel. you should check you camber adjustments about 1 a month or before any big race because they can change slightly from time to time. you should also re check your camber any time you change the camber hole location.

you would also need to re adjust your camber in the rear if you change the width setting on the car. changing the camber location on the rear hub affects the handling of the car.
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:51 PM   #237
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yes norman you would have to re-adjust your camber at your wheel. you should check you camber adjustments about 1 a month or before any big race because they can change slightly from time to time. you should also re check your camber any time you change the camber hole location.
I think I got it Rocket!!!!!lol
thanks
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:29 AM   #238
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Talking I'll get some pics up....

I'll get my car home tonight and get some pics up for you guys. There are a lot of little things you can do to make it more durable and handle a little better.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:51 AM   #239
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tex1 I'll get my car home tonight and get some pics up for you guys. There are a lot of little things you can do to make it more durable and handle a little better.
Thanks Tex1 that would be great to have a few pics of the buggies with all the major mods!!

Norman
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:56 AM   #240
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im getting mine either today or tommorow, so need to see some pics LOL
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