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Old 06-18-2006, 11:36 AM   #211
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And as far as tires go, I tried crimefighter M2's, and M2 knuckles as well, and then settled on the knuckles. I would have tried some panthers if I had them, but I don't yet...

I was wrong....if you click the "track pics 06" link on the website, it is the current layout....sorry about that..
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Old 06-18-2006, 12:10 PM   #212
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ok brad i think i'am getting the picture. first generally knuckles are for dry swept blue groove tracks they don't hook up on anything with loam or dust on top. but if you are not the only one running them and the faster guys are running them i would say stay with them but i think you will have better luck with the crimefighters. also when you run crimefighters clip off the outside lug to for less side bite. on my crimefighters i clip off the outside row on the rears and inside and outside row on the fronts, but if you don't want front and rear specific tires just clip the outside row. first i would check the tention on your servo saver because you say it pushes the worst at speed and that is when the most load is sent to the servo saver so tighten that up. ok i don't understand what you mean about the front camber link but my setup location is the outside hole at the hub carrier upper hole at the shock tower. the only change i think you should make would be to change the front camber link location to the lower hole at the shock tower. but if your still needing more i would try both but one at a time and not both together, either using the rear ackerman location on the steering rack or going to the fourth hole from inside on the rear shock tower.

it sounds to me like you are right there because you say the car is keeping up with everything on the track i think it might help to just make the camber change and stick with the setup a little while and find the cars breaking point because the car can be pushed very hard with that setup. you may find as you drive it that you can bring the lap times down just by pushing it harder.

one last thing when tightening the droop screws make sure that the rear end has about 2mm more of up travel than the front end that will help to throw more weight to the front tires while cornering, it doesn't help with high speed much but on that tracks tight turns it will help.
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Old 06-18-2006, 12:43 PM   #213
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I don't know why I said front camber link....I guess it's because I was just talking about the rear camber link. Anyway, what I meant to say was the front upper arm, which kinda serves as a front camber link I guess...lol. Anwyay, I was thinking that you had said in your set-up, that you had the front upper arm mounting in the inside hole on the hub, but I guess I remember wrong when I went back and checked it. I have it mounted in the outside hole like you do.
I knew the knuckles weren't designed for those conditions, but I was just trying to get something that worked, and those 2 were all I had yesterday. They (knuckes) gave me the best acceleration traction, and seemed to be just as good as the crimefighters as far as overall handling.
I hadn't even thought about the servo saver....I just went and checked it, and it was almost as tight as it will go though.
I will try the new changes and let you know how it went. Novelty has the ROAR region 8 electric race next weekend, so I won't get to try it then though... .
I'll do some clipping on the new set off crimefighters I just mounted up, but will prolly just do the outside row so they will be universal....limited budget you know.. . I'll check the droop screws too again, but I think I had them pretty well set already...Thanks again, and if you think of anything else, let me know....I'm sure more time behind the wheel will help as well. And again, the push is the ONLY complaint I have, and it's a limited complaint at that...lol.

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Old 06-18-2006, 12:54 PM   #214
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I just realized that the front caster blocks are the 18's instead of the 20's as well....
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Old 06-18-2006, 01:59 PM   #215
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that sounds like the problem right there. 18 degree caster blocks give you less turn in but more steering in the middle to the exit of the turn the higher degree you go the more it swings the other way. just change to 20 degree blocks and try it then, if your not happy then try changing what we already discussed. but i think that will solve your steering problem.

high speed turn in what you said you lacked, pretty sure its problem solved now.
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Old 06-18-2006, 05:53 PM   #216
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I'll get those changed too, but it wasn't just high-speed turn in that it lacked, that's just where it lacked steering the most...Thanks again for your help, and I'll report back when I get to race it again....

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Old 06-19-2006, 06:19 AM   #217
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Wink Wow....

Hey Rocket,
Standing up the front caster blocks (less castor) will give you more turn in off power. It will also give you less steering when power is applied.

Anyways, Try setting your lower front hinge pins as level as possible. This will give you a lot more side bite off power. We need some front blocks that will allow us to adjust the pin up and down.

The H8 does not seem to like anything less than the 20 degree blocks.

Rocket is correct about the Ackerman setting. To the rear will be more twitchy and give more turn in. Agressive!
Moving it forward will be more progressive which means it will turn later in the corner. The H8 is very responsive to this adjustment. It is quick so you might try that first.

He is also correct about the shocks and how they transfer load from the rear to the front. Increase the down travel in the rear.

Have you considered lossening the rear end up to get the front to bite harder??

Anyways.....
Hope this helps.
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:33 PM   #218
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Thanks for the input Tex.....I'll get the caster blocks changed first off, and go from there.
I assume when you say to "loosen" the rear end up you are talking about diff fluid or more preload spacers?
I tried raising the rear end up with preload a little, but when I tried that, it started making it loose under heavy acceleration, so I nixed that idea...I tried setting it to have more front toe out as well, and that helped a little, but not too much. Also went with a little stiffer spring in the rear too, but that went back to making it loose on-power again.
Basically, anything that I have tried in the rear has loosened it up, but not off-power. I also switched to 2 degrees of toe (each side) on the rear since the track has been so smooth.
I'm still learning how to set-up a 4WD, obviously, so I appreciate all you guys' help.....Thanks in advance....Brad
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Old 06-19-2006, 06:31 PM   #219
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tex you got me i guess i always see the castor as more caster causing the front wheels to gain more camber and thus digging in harder. and less caster as the wheels staying flatter and providing a bigger contact patch at slower speeds. i got to remember what you said which is right.

i tried tuning the car when i wanted more steering i went to the rear and adjusted there, but was never happy. i since changed my tuning strategy and focus on adjusting the end i want the improvment. that has worked out really well for me. i think changing the blocks will get you where you want to be, but the ackerman might make the steering too quick since pics of the track showed a layout tight but flowing. i think lowering the front camber link will get him hooked up if changing the camber block doesn't provide enough steering.
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Old 06-19-2006, 06:39 PM   #220
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Can't wait to try all this....not to mention that I am filing away all the info I can in my head, so next time I can get it figured out for myself.....hopefully!....lol.
I hate it that I have to wait 2 weeks to get to try it again though.....brutal!!!
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:16 PM   #221
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Hey guys I was going through my car and I have the 22 deg. castor blocks and right now I love the steering on the car (both on and off power) the rest of the set up is a replica of rocket besides the 22 deg. castor blocks!!

Other thing wile going through the car was that the rear hub-carriers have a slight play.... would this play go away with the aluminum hubs to make the rear a little bit more tight?
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Old 06-20-2006, 05:33 AM   #222
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Thumbs up Norman....

Yes. The rear aluminum blocks will remove the slop. If you want them just as adjustable as the stock ones then get the Xray blocks.
They have the inserts that will let you have the trackwidth adjustments which the other aluminum blocks don't have.
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Old 06-20-2006, 02:22 PM   #223
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hey Tex, im getting my hyper 8 this week, and i have been following your posts, do you think you could post a pic of your buggy, i sorta need a rough idea what your talking about. thanx
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Old 06-21-2006, 07:58 AM   #224
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What are you looking for a pic of? Something in particular?
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Old 06-21-2006, 09:42 PM   #225
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Whats up guys I was wondering what would be the diference if I switch from the 22 deg. castor blocks to the 20 deg. What will be the mayor change on this change
thanks
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