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Old 06-09-2006, 12:48 AM   #196
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FYI guys (& to take note), I read up a June's issue R/C magazine on a write up on Hyper8 recently. I believe there were 2 mistakes in this article, correct me if I'm wrong.

It was written by Stephen Bess with set-up tips from Paul Coleman. He mentioned the steering caster block comes in 17(should be 18 right ?), 20 & 22 degree. Next he said to drill the shock piston with a #54(that would be 1.603mm) drill bit front & rear & use 450/300 oil respectively. With that as a guide & finding 1.6mm too big a size, I decided to use 1.5mm bit & used Trinity's 45/30 oil. Guess what ?? - there were totally no damping at all !!. And... I got all the chassis slappings on bumpy sections. Ended my race prematurely with the lighten CNC steering knuckle lower mounting screw hole broken cleanly in half.

BTW, I still luv my Hyper8 !.
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Old 06-09-2006, 09:29 AM   #197
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#54 is a 1.4mm hole (#54=1.3970 mm)

#55 is a 1.3mm hole (#55=1.3208 mm)

17, 20 and 22 are the standard in buggy blocks.
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Old 06-10-2006, 12:00 PM   #198
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rumor is we will see some new parts soon from the american manufacturer of the pcr parts. new black anodized shock towers and aluminim rear hub carriers and some other parts. no big bores just yet. but personally i don't think there is anything wrong with the stock shocks. a little green slime and they stay smooth for weeks.
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Old 06-10-2006, 12:03 PM   #199
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Stayed up till 2 Am last night getting things ready to race today, and it rained us out!!!!!!!! UUUUUUGGGGHHH!! So, I'll have to give some feedback on that new set-up next week....I hope!
Glad to hear that we'll be getting some good hop-up options coming down the pike though, always makes them more fun to play with...
Personally, I like the polished parts that the hyper8 has though.
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Old 06-12-2006, 05:13 AM   #200
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Red face I hope.....

Is there going to be some factory guys on here for support. With Paul gone it seems we need another guy to take his place.

The H8 seems to need a chassis brace across the motor section to prevent the clutch bell from hitting the chassis. I had one made and it worked great.

Good to see you guys liking the car.
I love mine.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:05 AM   #201
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@Tex1

Got any pictures of this mod?
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:05 PM   #202
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i haven't had my clutch bell come anywhere close to hitting the chassis on my car but probably the best fix for that would be a 1 piece engine mount. you hear that king headz we need some of your awsome machining.
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:21 PM   #203
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hwy is it that Ofna are the ones that have the Hyper8 shown on their web site when Hobao are the ones that released the buggy??
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Old 06-12-2006, 10:25 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex1
Is there going to be some factory guys on here for support. With Paul gone it seems we need another guy to take his place.

The H8 seems to need a chassis brace across the motor section to prevent the clutch bell from hitting the chassis. I had one made and it worked great.

Good to see you guys liking the car.
I love mine.
TEX
Add 0.5mm shim between engine front bearing and flywheel.

The flywheel will be perfectly place in the center.
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Old 06-12-2006, 11:33 PM   #205
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daracemasta ofna is the u.s. distributor for ho bao, so ho bao released the car but in america they are sold under the name ofna. ofna also is the u.s. dist. for hong nor but in the u.s. they are sold under the ofna name as the jammin buggy.
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Old 06-17-2006, 09:15 PM   #206
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OK guys lets get this thread going and rolling with some more info on this great machine!!!!!!! I saw that there are 2 diferent shock towers (tall and short). Any diference in the handleing of the car with the tall or short shock towers?????BTW Rocket I used the set-up that you posted and the car was handleing like a champ very solid set-up thanks!!!!come on guys don't let this thread fall all the way down to page 2!!!!!!! LOL
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Old 06-17-2006, 11:49 PM   #207
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well norman i'am glad you liked the setup. i definately think it is a soild setup for sure. from what i've found out about the rear towers is there is about a 1-2mm difference in the height. nitrohouse.com has pictures posted to help you identify which tower you have on your car (in the pcr tips section). i have the short tower on my car and i don't think there is any problem but i'am running the stock shocks. the problem seems to be when you run the jammin big bores that the short tower doesn't allow enough downtravel.
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Old 06-18-2006, 07:14 AM   #208
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Finally got to run the set-up yesterday myself...I was hoping that the irritating push would be gone, but on the track I was racing on, it was actually quite a bit worse that the stock set-up I had tried the first time. The traction on the track varied a lot from heat to heat, and then eventually, the main. When their was more traction, the push wasn't to bad, and almost gone, but when the track was slick and loamy on top, it pushed like a dumptruck. It was mostly off power at higher speeds that it pushed, but was evident most of the time when the track was slick. At the end of the frontstretch, I had to really pitch the car in hard to get it to turn, otherwise it would've just went straight into the wall, literally...that's how bad the push was....high speed steering was non-existant...
The set-up was consistent and stable though, and flew very well too. If the push could just be eliminated I would COMPLETELY love the buggy, but until then, it's becoming a little bit of a thorn....
I was racing against mostly FT jammin's, and SP2's, and the hyper8 held it's own, but could've held it all I think, if the stinkin push was gone....everybody keep experimenting and let us know what worked and what didn't...
Overall, I would say the set-up is awesome for higher bite tracks, but didn't work on the slicker/loamy dirt I was racing on yesterday most of the time.....

Brad
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:00 AM   #209
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ok brad do you have the rear camber link drilled out of your shock tower. if you need more steering you can get it easily by changing the front roll center and going to the lower hole that should keep the stability you like and make the car turn harder. and if its a tight track go to the rear ackerman hole. with those changes you should have plenty of steering and a stable rear end. it sounds like the setup is close because it did work on and off during the day. tell me a little about the track and i think i can get the car to work great for you. remember this setup is a base setup and does need to be changed to suit different drivers. but i think i can help you get that car dialed. also if your track has a website let me know so i can see some pictures

after re- reading your post it sounds like you like to drive the car into the turns i like to slide it in myself i would say the first change you should make would be to stand up the rear shocks and move them to the fourth hole from inside. that will really help with turn in but it won't slide as consistantly
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:29 AM   #210
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Hey Rocket;
Yes, the rear camber link was in the "new" drilled location.
The only change that I hadn't made from your set-up was that I didn't have the front camber link in the inside hole. It was still in the outside because I just plain forgot to change it.
When you say going to lower hole, what are you referring to with that, and where?
The track is always very smooth, and developes a dry, sandy "fluff" on top in the later rounds of qualifying. It doesn't really blue groove much, and depending on the time available, it's usually swept and watered throughout the day. The track pics on the website (www.noveltyrc.com) aren't of this years layout yet, but you can get an idea at least of what it's like. It has several more jumps this year, and is a little more technical, but I wouldn't call it "tight". Most lanes at least 8 foot wide, and most are around 10. It's an above average size track for around here (130x90 foot).
I don't mind throwing the car into the turns at all, but I like to have the option of just driving it in if I want...lol. I haven't raced 1/8 buggy for a few years now, and honestly, I had forgot how hard you can drive them!! I come from more of a 2-wheel drive background, and it seems that the tuning from that stuff doesn't transfer over as much as I would like to the 4WD stuff.
I guess I like to have the car steer good enough to cut under someone in a corner if I want, or go in hard and throw it in, punch the throttle and powerslide/drift it through the corner if I want. I know, I want it all...lol, but I think the buggy is capable of it if I knew more about getting set-up the way I want, and that it needs to be.
Like I said in my previous post, it was still capable of running with any buggy on the track yesterday, and they were the top buggies on the market right now. So I know that if I can just get it to steer better, and stay as consistent and stable as it was, it will be the best buggy on the track....Thanks in advance!!!!

Brad
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