Agama Racing A215 Buggy
#421
Tech Adept
They're a drop in fit buddy, 4x66mm - I've recommended them to others as an alternative for the Losi one's. The good news is that will solve your hinge pin bending issue
#422
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Has anyone tried VRP 1.3x8 shock pistons?
http://visionracingproducts.com/Agama-A215_c11.htm
http://visionracingproducts.com/Agama-A215_c11.htm
#423
#425
The ratio of the gearing is different to other cars.. However it seems to be fast everywhere.
A215 Acceleration is diabolical if you add some thick midd diff oil. like a 20/20/5
Running the right clutch bell 17(stock) seems to be working well for us down here in South Africa. We have massive tracks. Even motocross guys mistake the track for a MiniCross Motox track. as the straights are long and jumps are Huge.
Make sure you run 17t mostly and you should be fine. otherwise something else is wrong.
A215 Acceleration is diabolical if you add some thick midd diff oil. like a 20/20/5
Running the right clutch bell 17(stock) seems to be working well for us down here in South Africa. We have massive tracks. Even motocross guys mistake the track for a MiniCross Motox track. as the straights are long and jumps are Huge.
Make sure you run 17t mostly and you should be fine. otherwise something else is wrong.
#426
#427
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Was struggling a bit whit shocks in our track, it is very bumpy, i mean VERY bumpy.
Made custom pistons with the 1.3x8 ones.
4 holes are 1.5mm, 2 holes are 1.3mm and sealed the 2 missing holes.
Had to go higher with oils. Using 40-30 with 1.3x8, now i'm using 55-40.
The car changed a lot, had more traction and could pass through bumps without any problem. In some parts of the track where i had to go slow now i can go faster.
Made custom pistons with the 1.3x8 ones.
4 holes are 1.5mm, 2 holes are 1.3mm and sealed the 2 missing holes.
Had to go higher with oils. Using 40-30 with 1.3x8, now i'm using 55-40.
The car changed a lot, had more traction and could pass through bumps without any problem. In some parts of the track where i had to go slow now i can go faster.
#428
PS: Warren, We ran AE 40/35. We went up from 35/30 on friday remember?
i also want to try the 1.6 x 5. Was thinking ae 50/40 ish might work in hotter temps. we have made some custom ones from blanks and were actually going to try them at the above mentioned event but the car worked so good with the 1.3x8 setup that we just left it for another day.
#429
10-5-3 works also very well
#430
Someone needs to fill me in on the weird diff setups I've seen posted. I started with all that but the car was more free in the turns with a normal diff setup such as 5-5-3. Now I see under drive gear in the rear ? I know most of these are overseas and I have never been on turf however, lower traction, lower oils and vise/versa. Here in the US, if you can't drive my car setup like it is, I seriously doubt a person could drive any car. I know we all like different setups and no one magic setup for everyone so they're all pretty much used as a base. I can say that if you're having traction issues, change to a short link in the front. The car oversteers with the long front link and the heavy front oil adds to the problem. Add sidebite to the car by raising the camber links on the tower and get the ride height up to the 28mm range.
#431
Greg
the rear underdrive gear is something that was used alot with the A8. i havent been using it up to the last race on my A215. i was told to at least try it and it did make a difference with how hard the car could be pushed out of corners. the thinner centre diff only seems "weird" maybe because the car and the ratios allows it. if i for instance pop 7k in the centre it woud be a normal diff setup for all intentional purposes i guess (7-7-5). but heres why i think the car feels good with thinner centre diff:
the A215s gearing means the centre drivetrain turns at about 11k rpm vs the 9k rpm of say a Mbx7r. this means there is more rpm/inertia in the centre drive train in the A215. the car has oversized diffs too...and in combination means you can get away with running a thinner centre diff apparently....which in turn makes the car very tame with a aggressive throttle finger. i digress and say that on some tracks it almost feels too soft on power...but around here with our rutty tracks the benefits of the thinner centre diff almost outstrips that extra punch out of corners you guys might need on your style tracks. at our first national round the track looked like a lunar surface on sunday...and our cars were the only cars who could attack the track without even worrying about where the holes were.
This is actually something i learned in the D812 thread from mr T. Deguzman (hotbodies Mech Engineer for those who dont know) a while ago...since that car originally used the same internal gear ratio as the A215 does now (43/10)
Plenty of TY's setups were in the region of 5-3-3 or 5-3-2 or 5-4-3 with that car which means the theory is sound imo, and why we are seeing setups in the same "style" if i can call it that.
the 5k in the rear is n personal preference for ME. 3k makes the rear too edgy off-power imo...especially if I go into a corner too hard..i personally felt it with back to back testing and made an informed decision based on my own driving style. but i used to run 5k in the rear of my mugens too i guess.
im with you with the very heavy front diff setup...it pushes too much off-power for my liking, and if you wanted the understeer it is an easy fix with a short front link...which i run too,but as mentioned...i found the sweet spot for myself with 7k in the front (7-3-5). on a smooth, high grip surface id say yes...a thicker centre diff would be better...id probably go up to 7-7-5..like mentioned, which is for all intentional purposes a "normal" diff setup. but for our rutted out, low grip, nasty at times, tracks...being able to annihilate the opposition through the ruts makes 3k in the centre in the A215 almost a no brainer.
the rear underdrive gear is something that was used alot with the A8. i havent been using it up to the last race on my A215. i was told to at least try it and it did make a difference with how hard the car could be pushed out of corners. the thinner centre diff only seems "weird" maybe because the car and the ratios allows it. if i for instance pop 7k in the centre it woud be a normal diff setup for all intentional purposes i guess (7-7-5). but heres why i think the car feels good with thinner centre diff:
the A215s gearing means the centre drivetrain turns at about 11k rpm vs the 9k rpm of say a Mbx7r. this means there is more rpm/inertia in the centre drive train in the A215. the car has oversized diffs too...and in combination means you can get away with running a thinner centre diff apparently....which in turn makes the car very tame with a aggressive throttle finger. i digress and say that on some tracks it almost feels too soft on power...but around here with our rutty tracks the benefits of the thinner centre diff almost outstrips that extra punch out of corners you guys might need on your style tracks. at our first national round the track looked like a lunar surface on sunday...and our cars were the only cars who could attack the track without even worrying about where the holes were.
This is actually something i learned in the D812 thread from mr T. Deguzman (hotbodies Mech Engineer for those who dont know) a while ago...since that car originally used the same internal gear ratio as the A215 does now (43/10)
Plenty of TY's setups were in the region of 5-3-3 or 5-3-2 or 5-4-3 with that car which means the theory is sound imo, and why we are seeing setups in the same "style" if i can call it that.
the 5k in the rear is n personal preference for ME. 3k makes the rear too edgy off-power imo...especially if I go into a corner too hard..i personally felt it with back to back testing and made an informed decision based on my own driving style. but i used to run 5k in the rear of my mugens too i guess.
im with you with the very heavy front diff setup...it pushes too much off-power for my liking, and if you wanted the understeer it is an easy fix with a short front link...which i run too,but as mentioned...i found the sweet spot for myself with 7k in the front (7-3-5). on a smooth, high grip surface id say yes...a thicker centre diff would be better...id probably go up to 7-7-5..like mentioned, which is for all intentional purposes a "normal" diff setup. but for our rutted out, low grip, nasty at times, tracks...being able to annihilate the opposition through the ruts makes 3k in the centre in the A215 almost a no brainer.
Last edited by Sideshow Bob; 05-21-2015 at 10:54 PM.
#432
on a different note....you guys will see on warren's setup we tried a wing mod that worked really good. in summary, we dropped the wing by about 3mm by drilling another hole on the side that only has the 1 hole.this means the whole mount can be dropped equally front and rear.
Doing this youll notice youll have to flip the wing mount stays around as the nut will catch on the inside, BUT this unknown-to-us tuning option moves the wing forward a bit, notice that the mount is asymmetrical
This in combination with drilling the holes a new wing to move the wing forward, makes the end result lower and more forward than stock by quite some margin. most guys felt it made the car alot better in the infield..the aero effect of that is probably arguable but we did feel that geting it lower and that much more forward did change the CoG at the rear by some...as the wing does weigh about 50-70g and the further it hangs over the back of the rear axle..the more "porsche 911 effect youll have" imo lol (pendulum effect)
Doing this youll notice youll have to flip the wing mount stays around as the nut will catch on the inside, BUT this unknown-to-us tuning option moves the wing forward a bit, notice that the mount is asymmetrical
This in combination with drilling the holes a new wing to move the wing forward, makes the end result lower and more forward than stock by quite some margin. most guys felt it made the car alot better in the infield..the aero effect of that is probably arguable but we did feel that geting it lower and that much more forward did change the CoG at the rear by some...as the wing does weigh about 50-70g and the further it hangs over the back of the rear axle..the more "porsche 911 effect youll have" imo lol (pendulum effect)
#433
The problem we found with the weird diff setups was for one lack of off power steering but also that after a race day all 3 diffs would have the oils totally smoked.since switching to 5-5-3 the oils in all 3 stay much cleaner than before.I'm sure under certain track conditions 3 in the center may work but for the type of traction we have its a no.
#434
From my experience, the D812 seemed to diff out to the rear a good bit and anything over 5k in the center and the car was very loose on power. HB guy's are seemingly running the same diff setup on the D815 which shares new gearing with a ratio that's in the ballpark of Kyosho, Losi and JQ.
The tracks we run on here in the states usually doesn't need a car setup for a lot of on-power steering but need the off-power.
As for traction entering the turn, we use antisquat Less , tightens it up, more frees it up.
The A215 is a pretty simple design with old school adjustments. Pretty easy car to get it right.
The tracks we run on here in the states usually doesn't need a car setup for a lot of on-power steering but need the off-power.
As for traction entering the turn, we use antisquat Less , tightens it up, more frees it up.
The A215 is a pretty simple design with old school adjustments. Pretty easy car to get it right.
#435
+1 on Warren and sideshowbobs set up I'm very comfortable with it I did go the same oils as Sideshowbob 7-3-5 mainly because I struggled with off power steering aswell other than that Im quicker with The A215 now and just feel everytime I'm out with her she gets faster and faster but that could also be The pros giving me some setup tips helping get faster Warren and sideshowbob are very helpful and clued up on the buggy thanks Guys