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Old 09-01-2014, 12:50 AM   #1
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Angry Collet break

Guys, Sorry if this question has been asked before. I tried doing a search but the results were many. Situation here and questions at the end.

So i was running on the weekend. OS MAX .21 on losi 8 3.0 buggy.

All of a sudden i lost all forward momentum. On inspection, the flywheel had let go of the collet. So i pulled the engine down and put a small shim behind the collet to bearing. Re-installed the collet as it was the only one that would fit after speaking to a few other members at the track.

Managed one lap around the track in warmup. ... Fly wheel let go again. I get home and find that the bolt that secures the fly wheel to the collet was loose. I then look behind the fly wheel and notice a lot of fine metal shavings. I then see the collet was missing some metal from the bottom.

So a few questions.

1. The engine shaft has some play (in/out). about 2mm. Is this bad?.... The engine appears clean inside with no signs of damage from the exhaust port.

2. The fly wheel has a lot of wear where the collet would sit. Will i need to replace the fly wheel?

3. Have i killed the bearing where the collet touches. I cleaned the area with low pressure air and it all appears clean and in tact.

Finally. What causes the fly wheels to slip on the collet. Nut not tight enough...???

Seams strange that i made it through the last race meet with no problems. Now the engine is run in and making good solid power, things have seamed to go wrong... It was a terrible weekend for me.. 13 laps total from 4 races including the main

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:55 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamLosi83.0 View Post
Guys, Sorry if this question has been asked before. I tried doing a search but the results were many. Situation here and questions at the end.

So i was running on the weekend. OS MAX .21 on losi 8 3.0 buggy.

All of a sudden i lost all forward momentum. On inspection, the flywheel had let go of the collet. So i pulled the engine down and put a small shim behind the collet to bearing. Re-installed the collet as it was the only one that would fit after speaking to a few other members at the track.

Managed one lap around the track in warmup. ... Fly wheel let go again. I get home and find that the bolt that secures the fly wheel to the collet was loose. I then look behind the fly wheel and notice a lot of fine metal shavings. I then see the collet was missing some metal from the bottom.

So a few questions.

1. The engine shaft has some play (in/out). about 2mm. Is this bad?.... The engine appears clean inside with no signs of damage from the exhaust port.

2. The fly wheel has a lot of wear where the collet would sit. Will i need to replace the fly wheel?

3. Have i killed the bearing where the collet touches. I cleaned the area with low pressure air and it all appears clean and in tact.

Finally. What causes the fly wheels to slip on the collet. Nut not tight enough...???

Seams strange that i made it through the last race meet with no problems. Now the engine is run in and making good solid power, things have seamed to go wrong... It was a terrible weekend for me.. 13 laps total from 4 races including the main

Thanks in advance.
It sounds like you need to tighten the clutch nut up much tighter, also use blue loctite.

When you are putting the collet onto the crank, pull the crank out as far as it will go, this will stop the rod rubbing on the backplate (this play is normal). When tightening the clutch nut, use a pair of vice-grips to hold the flywheel and crank down on the nut, it needs to be tight!

Everything else should be good to go.
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:39 AM   #3
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thanks mate. was looking for some peace of mind
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:16 AM   #4
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There are many tools that make this process much easier without tearing up the flywheels. As for your flywheel, if there is damage near the seat for the collet, it's probably a good idea to replace it.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:04 PM   #5
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Default I use channel locks too.

They work fine. IMO. I also use locktight like the first guy mentioned and I use small socket wrench with a deep socket to tighten the flywheel. Also those brass collets are crappy they tend to loosen up easier and cause issues. I use the black mugen or novarossi steel collets. I know some clutch flywheels only fit the brass collets but I only use Mugen flywheels they fit the novarossi and mugen collets perfectly. If the flywheel is damaged at all replace it. it will only get worse.
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:57 PM   #6
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Never had issue with brass collet I've been doing this long time. There are different lengths and thickness of them. Need to check when you put flywheel on that collet come all the way through it. If it does and you tighten nut it won't lock collet and flywheel together. Flywheel and collet are junk replace both of them. Taper fit is what locks them together when set up right.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:46 AM   #7
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In the history of Losi 8th - I have had no issues with the brass collet. Your whole issue is you are not getting it tight enough.

To remove or install the flywheel, I use a nut driver and channel locks with a towel. Me personally, I do not use locktite. Not a drop on my engines. Personal preference. This is something I check once before the Quals and onces before the main. Make sure everythings tight.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:01 AM   #8
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Ty Tesseman uses Kyosho steel collets instead of the brass collets. According to him and Gord, these work much better at keeping the flywheel from potentially spinning. Here is the link to Ty's website that shows how he installs his flywheels. It might help you with your situation

http://www.tytessman.com/racing/tips...utch-setup.php
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TruggyDude91 View Post
Ty Tesseman uses Kyosho steel collets instead of the brass collets. According to him and Gord, these work much better at keeping the flywheel from potentially spinning. Here is the link to Ty's website that shows how he installs his flywheels. It might help you with your situation

http://www.tytessman.com/racing/tips...utch-setup.php
I believe Ty uses a standard 3 shoe clutch. The one for the TLR 8 3.0 is different.
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:51 PM   #10
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I find giving the collet a going over with some course sandpaper helps with slippage as well...inside and outside.
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:31 PM   #11
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Holding the flywheel in an attempt to seat and tighten the flywheel to the collet. You dont see an inherent problem here lol? The crank is what needs to be held in place so you can you seat and tighten the flywheel properly. I never use thread lock on the flywheel nuts and havent had issues but if you cant adequately tighten them, I could see that being a problem.
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TruggyDude91 View Post
Ty Tesseman uses Kyosho steel collets instead of the brass collets. According to him and Gord, these work much better at keeping the flywheel from potentially spinning. Here is the link to Ty's website that shows how he installs his flywheels. It might help you with your situation

http://www.tytessman.com/racing/tips...utch-setup.php
So because he does it it's better? If there tighten correctly you won't have issue
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:49 PM   #13
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Also, don't use piston locking tools as was linked above. You can severely damage your piston and then your engine will not perform anywhere near as well as it should.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:02 AM   #14
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I've never used a piston locking tool but you most certainly will not damage anything with a crank locking tool.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:30 AM   #15
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thanks again guys. Have since replaced the entire flywheel/clutch setup and put a new collet on. There was some scratching to the shaft where the collet sits, but with it tight enough now, there shouldn't be any issues....... touch wood.

will let yas all know how I go in 2 weeks at the next race meet.
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