mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

tried searching couldn't really find.

I was wondering how everyone deals with the added heat from the exhaust under the bodywork. I know it's adding heat to the motor but I don't want a million holes in the bodywork.

I thought about wrapping the exhaust in 1" DEI exhaust wrap I have.
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...haust-wrap-tan

I know it sort of seems like a hack but the bodywork is so close to the exhaust and to the car it's not really letting any out from the rear or in from the front without cutting a bunch of holes in it. 1/2 way through a tank of gas I can hear and tell the tune has changed as the motor becomes saturated with intense heat.

Jerm13

iTrader: (36)

Ive done a couple different thing s but haven't really noticed a real difference.
Added holes to the front, cut out the back to let the air out, a shield between the pipe and tank. Didn't notice any change in running, drive times, or engine tuning.

Maybe there is something else going on. You said it was at about a 1/2 tank it changes, have you checked your tank for an air leak at the seam? Maybe replace it just to make sure? Make sure you are starting your tuning adjustments when the engine is at full operating temp ( atleast 200*) Before that, adjusting will just cause you to have to have to undo or redo what you just did.

bksrt

I used some of that dei header wrap on the manifold. Not sure if it made much difference or not as i dont have a temp gun. I put it on so i would stop burning my fingers on it.

mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

If I run without the body the tune seems to stay good through the entire tank. With the body I can tell about half way through the throttle response gets a little sluggish. Just like a cold engine does. Plenty of smoke from the pipe still. I like the tune where it's at. Pretty easy to start, idles all day, good throttle response and power, and never flames out. I just have a feeling if I start trying to tune this out I'm just compensating for a heat issue and end up creating another issue and be chasing my tail with screw settings. I'd rather modify the bodywork and wrap the pipe.

RockStar_199

iTrader: (42)

make sure your fuel line is away from the pipe....other than that its your tune and nothing to do with the body. Your faking yourself out lol

mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

it's not as bad as it may sound. if I clear it out with a mid to high speed run for more than 2-3 seconds it's fine.
I can live with it. the motor temps are right about 270. pipe temp was 415. it's causing other issues...
I noticed the pipe is getting the chassis sides so hot my velcro is melting(I hate body clips). so I went for the wrap to protect the body. looks ghetto but it works. dang durango and making stuff so tight. and that air filter was new at the beginning of the day.

RockStar_199

iTrader: (42)

Post that in the Durango thread ........ Ryan lutz does come to the site and will prolly have a solution for you or at least someone that has had one might be able to help......what motor?

mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

I would but it's a million posts long for one and 2 I don't have that kind of time to read the whole thing.

This isn't a big issue I was mostly interested I what other people do to keep the pipe from melting bodywork and if they had trouble from heat with the engine. I am pretty much forced to use the heat wrap if I don't want a melted body
I have a brand new body I spent days airbrushing I want to protect it. Which is now my goal. The wrap has worked great. I might shoe goo the wrap to the body instead.

Shawn_S

iTrader: (20)

What I can see from the pic is that you have the exhaust line cooler on the fuel line. Not sure how the exhaust line is run, but it looks like there's maybe the potential for it to kink. In my experience, the Durango tank will lean out slightly during a run. Nothing to significantly worry about though.

Maybe consider running a different body, since the Durango doesn't leave much room. Either the JConcepts or Proline 8ight 2.0 bodies will fit decent enough.

Roelof

A cooler exhaust does give more performance so let it free. I know people do use aluminium tape on the inside of the body tp protect the body if it is close to the exhaust.

mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

exhaust line cooler you say. I thought it was for the fuel supply line. that's how it was when i got it from someone else. it's not in the owners manual. even though the manual is for the V2 it's still showing the V1 tank.

as for the kink, yeah I changed that. it was way too kinked. thanks for the body info i had no idea. will look into one if I ever need another. FTW makes one for it too. I have one on my E buggy. it has a ton of room under it.

the wrap does stay a bit cooler than the exhaust itself. about 40 degrees cooler. still hot enough to give you a nice burn though. maybe Ill just go ahead and glue some to the body instead.

rcmad2700

iTrader: (7)

richen it an hour or 2 on top and it should be a lot better without sacrificing much top end

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

The heat coming from your pipe is not affecting the temp of your engine... at all.

mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

I switched the fuel lines around. There's no way that cooler does anything for run times. If it does it's too small to measure.
Maybe it will run for 20' further....
It actually seems to work better the other way.

curacing2

Check you havn't over tightened to screws that hold the tank to the mounts, too tight can lead to leaning out as the tank gets lower, the tank needs some movement to lesson vibration from the chassis.