switches
#1
switches
Looking for a switch that fits in the original location, has a charge lead and doesn't stick fall apart or whatever. The futaba one sticks after a few races, and I see three versions of Jr switches, a spectrum, and a few others. Which switch is the best.
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
I don't run one typically. I just run my battery lead outside of the battery box and connect it before a race. Had too many switch issues in the past to trust em anymore. Although I do hear great things about the KO Propo Digital switch.....
If you insist on running one, the JR seems to be a decent one.
If you insist on running one, the JR seems to be a decent one.
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I don't run one typically. I just run my battery lead outside of the battery box and connect it before a race. Had too many switch issues in the past to trust em anymore. Although I do hear great things about the KO Propo Digital switch.....
If you insist on running one, the JR seems to be a decent one.
If you insist on running one, the JR seems to be a decent one.
#7
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/2-wi...connector.html
Ditch the switch, helps to be handy with the solder iron to get it neat and tidy but I've never had it come apart, I did have one wire that broke inside the casing but that was after a year+ of use. I've had that happen with other stuff before too. for the price you can get plenty of back ups, don't forget to get an extra set to setup a charge lead as well.
Ditch the switch, helps to be handy with the solder iron to get it neat and tidy but I've never had it come apart, I did have one wire that broke inside the casing but that was after a year+ of use. I've had that happen with other stuff before too. for the price you can get plenty of back ups, don't forget to get an extra set to setup a charge lead as well.
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/2-wi...connector.html
Ditch the switch, helps to be handy with the solder iron to get it neat and tidy but I've never had it come apart, I did have one wire that broke inside the casing but that was after a year+ of use. I've had that happen with other stuff before too. for the price you can get plenty of back ups, don't forget to get an extra set to setup a charge lead as well.
Ditch the switch, helps to be handy with the solder iron to get it neat and tidy but I've never had it come apart, I did have one wire that broke inside the casing but that was after a year+ of use. I've had that happen with other stuff before too. for the price you can get plenty of back ups, don't forget to get an extra set to setup a charge lead as well.
#9
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
There's no need really to even switch connectors. Just use the regular servo lead on the rx pack, run a servo extension out of your rx box, and use a safety lock like this one.
http://www.valuehobby.com/accessorie...fety-lock.html
http://www.valuehobby.com/accessorie...fety-lock.html
#10
i don't use a switch either. had problems before. i just run a couple of leads outside of receiver box and use deans micro plugs. one goes straight to the battery and i can charge the battery if needed.
#11
Yep. Me to. If you use the deans micros just make sure you get the polarities right or you'll be sorry.
#12
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
Try these half the price of a ko propo and they work well
http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route...product_id=168
http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route...product_id=168
#13
I run the Spektrum switch. I like the fact that it has larger gauge wires. As far as them going bad, they are in a very rough environment. It is an item that i replace every so often.
#14
i use ko it s fantastic!!!
there are robitronic or vp pro (similar skyfly)
and pro lux
http://www.ebay.it/itm/Prolux-One-To...item3f28445e50
there are robitronic or vp pro (similar skyfly)
and pro lux
http://www.ebay.it/itm/Prolux-One-To...item3f28445e50
#15
Tech Master
I tried the Flysky switch, I wont be trying it again. While they work good, they don't last, the mounts are a bit weak as well & can break easily if not careful. I have heard from a few people that had similar problems with them as well.
I didn't have mine long, on a 1/8 nitro buggy, it just stopped working, was fine the day before when tested, then I drove 300+km to a race, got set up & went to start buggy, no power to the receiver or servo's, switch had fried itself.
Maybe they just can't handle the abuse they get from a nitro buggy & offroad use, might be better in something on smoother ground. I now use a normal switch (sanwa) & haven't had a problem.
I didn't have mine long, on a 1/8 nitro buggy, it just stopped working, was fine the day before when tested, then I drove 300+km to a race, got set up & went to start buggy, no power to the receiver or servo's, switch had fried itself.
Maybe they just can't handle the abuse they get from a nitro buggy & offroad use, might be better in something on smoother ground. I now use a normal switch (sanwa) & haven't had a problem.