m2cracing

M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of the nt48 truggy chassis.
this model uses 7075-T6 aircraft aluminum and clear anodized.
We did our finish testing this past week end at the Physco Nitro blast in
Georgia.
The track was rough by the time we got to the mains, so we knew if can
take the punishment of that track, it could withstand most anything.
Our test driver reported that the chassis performed flawless with no issues.
even after a bad crash in practice.
We have redesigned a few of the pockets to prevent stress points.

the chassis are on the website for pre order and should start shipping
within about 2 weeks
m2c 6575
We have also added (3) mm holes to bolt on up to 2 oz of weight if needed
for looser tracks. part no. m2c 5298

Carter Flotron

iTrader: (1)

Awesome that the screws for weight are already on there! Does it weigh much different from the stock chassis?

m2cracing

Weight is about 5 grams heavier due to redesign of a few of the cutouts in the chassis
The weight kit comes in 3 different pcs
1 Oz weight
2 1/2 Oz weights that can be stacked on top of larger weight
Might have to mod the shorter
Rear chassis brace a bit to stack all weights but usually the 1 Oz is sufficient for the looser tracks

nmdesertracer

iTrader: (59)

Nice are you gonna do a NB48 chassis?

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

Not trying to bring up an old issue but I'm thinking off buying this truggy and was wondering if the spur gear issue is resolved, i know tekno bought out a revised spur but apparently it still suffers from breaking teeth (according to what I've read) is this still the case cheers.

JsK

iTrader: (10)

There are a lot of us that have gallons and gallons of fuel through our truggys with zero spur gear issues. Unfortunatly there have been a few cases of guys breaking Spurs and it usually happens repeatedly to the same person. My advice is to not worry about it. Odds are you will never have a problem. There is another revision on its way and worst case scenario is to use an entire serpent center diff that you can find on eBay for about 60 bucks. Now let me repeat that's only been in the most EXTREME cases and almost everyone else has had zero issues. Honestly the rest of the truck is so good if that's all you ever had to do it would be well worth it.

Apco1

iTrader: (2)

In no way would I let an issue like this sway me from buying a product. We put a ton of wear and tear on these cars. All brands will break something somewhere eventually.

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

Last comment about it:

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

I'm running all aluminum Tekno shoes and 2x1.0 springs (gold) and 2x1.1 springs (red). The motor has to rev up pretty good to get the shoes to engage. It happens at the beginning of a run and when accelerating. Coming out of a turn, I can hear the motor revving (a little too much), but the car speed isn't matching. Then, all of a sudden, the shoes catch and the car takes off. The motor has a pop from idle, but the car doesn't. Do I need to replace the shoes and springs or do I need to go with harder springs? Anybody else experience this? I'm new to nitro and everybody is telling me the clutch is too soft. I thought so too until I realized I was running gold and red springs.

When should I replace the shoes and springs (every gallon)? For me, it's hard to tell when the shoes are worn. Never dealt with nitro before.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

Do all the 7075 shoes mushroom? Can this cause the shoes to engage later (they get stuck on the flywheel)? Any solutions to mushrooming other than filing the mushroomed sections down?

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

Is there an easy way to remove the center diff on the NT48?

JsK

iTrader: (10)

It takes a few tanks to break new shoes in, they really need to be set and then a couple easy tanks run on em. I never run the 1.1 springs. For seating the shoes I would
use 4 x .9 springs and then change back to 4 x 1.0 for running. And yes all aluminum shoes mushroom out like that and you have to pull it apart and bevel the edge on a
regular basis to keep them from dragging on the flywheel.

There is no easy way to get the diff out, take the 6 screws out from underneath.

One of these will be your best friend for pulling the motor out from the top.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/hudy-me...ud132540/p8371

The MIP wrenches are good just to short for this application.

one8updragracer

iTrader: (5)

I haven't ran nitro for a while but I always wished the manufacturer's would put holes through the cooling head so we can get straight at the mount screws.

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

Pulled the trigger and got this truggy and its amazing. I was wondering has anyone tried the M2C chassis and if so did it improve the truggy overall.

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Their not available yet, this week maybe. Their up for preorder on our site.

In testing they handled great, and much stronger.