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What tool do you use to tighten the bottom engine mount screws?

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What tool do you use to tighten the bottom engine mount screws?

Old 12-09-2012, 10:49 AM
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Default What tool do you use to tighten the bottom engine mount screws?

I don't think tightening the bottom motor mount screws with a regular 2.5mm hex tool is good enough. What are you guys using?
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:56 AM
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Which screws are you referencing? If your talking about the screws on the block to the mount,I always have used my MIP 2.5mm Ball driver and a bit of loc-tite.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by teeforb
I don't think tightening the bottom motor mount screws with a regular 2.5mm hex tool is good enough. What are you guys using?
i am using a regular xceed titan or hudy 2.5 hex.No problems
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by spunkysandoval
Which screws are you referencing? If your talking about the screws on the block to the mount,I always have used my MIP 2.5mm Ball driver and a bit of loc-tite.
The ones at the bottom of the chassis where you adjust the gear mesh. I've had problems where the motor has moved.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:06 AM
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That's what I use.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by LightningStruck


That's what I use.
I guess I can use my makita power drill. But certain things like to hand tighten. I'm not sure what's a good torque setting to make sure it's tight enough
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:12 AM
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I have torx screws with an integrated washer. You can do a hole season with the screws when continiously taking out the engine with those screws
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:13 AM
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A fastener that small and into aluminum, it doesn't take much to strip it. Loc-tite and a 1/4" ratchet is what I always used. You can get a bit more torque than a driver without hurting your wrist, but not so much that you snap it off.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by teeforb
The ones at the bottom of the chassis where you adjust the gear mesh. I've had problems where the motor has moved.
I'm not laughing at you just the other posts.

the answer is simple. The 2.5mm L shaped wrench that comes in the kit. I use those to put a little extra force on them, and it works to get them off too. I found a giant bag of them on e bay for like 6 dollars.

Yes they strip out sometime, but that is the best method. just to put that little extra tightness on the engine mount screws. I also use teflon spray on the screws so they come out after a race day. Works flawlessly.
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:18 PM
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I use a 1/4" torque wrench...first taking them to 14lbs, then 27lbs, and finally 37lbs....but I only install them by the light of a full moon after sacrificing 2 one eyed chickens on a black onyx chopping block......



....all joking aside....I use my power driver to seat them, then I lock it and snug them down @ 1/8 turn more and never have issues....one thing to try is get everything set and snug when its cold, then do your usual warm up routine, by then your motor will have heat saturated your mount and chassis, then snug them down again by hand....also using quality tools helps a great deal
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler777
I use a 1/4" torque wrench...first taking them to 14lbs, then 27lbs, and finally 37lbs....but I only install them by the light of a full moon after sacrificing 2 one eyed chickens on a black onyx chopping block......



....all joking aside....I use my power driver to seat them, then I lock it and snug them down @ 1/8 turn more and never have issues....one thing to try is get everything set and snug when its cold, then do your usual warm up routine, by then your motor will have heat saturated your mount and chassis, then snug them down again by hand....also using quality tools helps a great deal
+1
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:35 PM
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The MIP 2.5 had a large diameter handle that has always allowed me to get good torque on any 2.5mm fastner.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:50 PM
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You can just buy a car with 5mm engine screws that use 3mm hex drivers. Never have to worry about stripping it or coming loose.
In all seriousness, I've never needed to super torque the engine mounts, or even use loctite, no matter what brand or size the mounts were.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:31 PM
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Hmmmm....

Blue loctite and a hex driver? No need for power tools or torque wrenches.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BrakeTurnAccelerate
You can just buy a car with 5mm engine screws that use 3mm hex drivers. Never have to worry about stripping it or coming loose.
In all seriousness, I've never needed to super torque the engine mounts, or even use loctite, no matter what brand or size the mounts were.
Selecting a car based on the size of screws used on the engine mount has got to be the most arbitrary thing to base that decision on that mounve ever heard. I hope you are joking. That being said which car even uses 5mm screws for the engine mount?

I just use my MIP Thorpe wrench and I always run locktite. I always clean the screws and engine mount with brake parts cleaner to get rid of any grease, oil, and in the case of reusing screws, old locktite. I also make sure that the engine is in the car 24 hours before I plan on running, thus allowing the locktite to cure to full strength. I take racing serious, and I don't want something like a loose engine mount to take me out while I'm in the lead at the end of an hour main. For the screws that mount the engine to the mount I have drilled the screw heads and safety wire them together. There is no way they can come loose because they are physically locked to each other.
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