Recommendation for nitro on farm/park.
11-12-2012, 03:35 AM
#1
Recommendation for nitro on farm/park.
Hey guys,
I am looking for a nitro truck/buggy/truggy. I am not doin any racing but I go to my farm a lot, and the local park, so I will be driving there. It will just be going in the dust and the occasional jumps. What do you recommend I should get. I don't mind if its rtr or kit. The only quiteria is this:
Roto start
Under $500. (If kit including motor servos etc. don't need radio gear)
40mph+
Pretty good durability
Thanks in advance for any help
I am looking for a nitro truck/buggy/truggy. I am not doin any racing but I go to my farm a lot, and the local park, so I will be driving there. It will just be going in the dust and the occasional jumps. What do you recommend I should get. I don't mind if its rtr or kit. The only quiteria is this:
Roto start
Under $500. (If kit including motor servos etc. don't need radio gear)
40mph+
Pretty good durability
Thanks in advance for any help
11-12-2012, 04:18 PM
#3
The Savage X 4.6 comes to mind. It's in your budget. Meets all your criteria and tons of hop-ups available if you ever want to go that route. http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/105644/
11-13-2012, 04:00 AM
#5
I think a Savage would be more fun. 3-speed, etc..
Yes though, Losi makes great RTR's.. That ROSS system is notoriously unreliable..
A Losi XXL though would be the best..
Yes though, Losi makes great RTR's.. That ROSS system is notoriously unreliable..
A Losi XXL though would be the best..
Last edited by Herrsavage; 11-13-2012 at 08:13 AM.
11-13-2012, 11:16 AM
#7
Tech Fanatic
Just about any nitro monster truck. Buggy's and Short Course Trucks don't do very good on a rough farm. They need to have a smoother surface in order to run well. Monster Trucks are the do everything go anywhere all around bashing vehicle.
11-13-2012, 03:10 PM
#9
Go for a Truggy. Faster, more stable than a Monster Truck. Should be able to find a complete 8ight-T 1.0 for well under $500.
Or even a Buggy. My 8ight 2.0 is the fastest in my lineup and has taken a serious beating. Nothing has broke. My Revo and Savage couldn't take half what my Losi's have.
Or even a Buggy. My 8ight 2.0 is the fastest in my lineup and has taken a serious beating. Nothing has broke. My Revo and Savage couldn't take half what my Losi's have.
. Should I get the shiny hpi tuned pipe for it?
11-13-2012, 10:46 PM
#12
Or get the Losi XXL from the get-go...
Last edited by Herrsavage; 11-13-2012 at 11:09 PM.
11-13-2012, 11:46 PM
#14
ok guys well i've got the savage on my xmas list with a tuned pipe. Its going to be awsome on my farm if have absouletly massive jumps 20ft+. I also have paddocks with thick dirt!! that will be cool. Currently though one thing that is scaring me is the break in and tunning part. Can someone correct me if im wrong.
For break in:
Keep factory needle settings
Run 3 tanks at idol (do i put any revs on the remote?)
run 2 tanks at half speed in circle.
For tuning:
Tune the HSN all the way until you start to lose peformance on your engine from being to lean.
Then tune LSN, the exact way as the HSN.
Thanks for all your help so far guys
For break in:
Keep factory needle settings
Run 3 tanks at idol (do i put any revs on the remote?)
run 2 tanks at half speed in circle.
For tuning:
Tune the HSN all the way until you start to lose peformance on your engine from being to lean.
Then tune LSN, the exact way as the HSN.
Thanks for all your help so far guys
11-13-2012, 11:54 PM
#15
This is my $.02 for break-in...:
1.) Take out glow plug. Rotate flywheel to point where the piston is at its absolute bottom position. Then, with a sharp screwdriver or something, scratch a little notch on your flyhwheel at 9:00(so, from the right side of the Savage, where you can easily see it...) This way, with the plug in later, you'll know where that BDC - bottom dead center - position is.. Put plug back in.
2.) Wrap head in an old sock, maybe alu foil if it's cooler than like 65F outside..
3.) Ideally, preheat the engine to 200F with a hair-drier for ex. If you prop a cheapo hair-drier at a slight angle (needs to be a slight angle, or you'll fry the hair drier) over the cooling head hole, it should reach 200-ish in about 10-12 minutes.
4.) Start engine. Make sure it stays running. Once it's idling, put it on the ground, and drive it around reaaaaalllyyy slowly in figure-8's, or just back and forth - no more than 1/4 throttle.. Long and slow, back and forth. Monitor the temps. If the temps go above 220F or so, take off the sock/alu foil. If temps are well under 200, lean the HSN by a 1/4 or so. The whole point is to have temps in the 200-225F range.
5.) After about 3-4 minutes, shut off the engine, and immediately rotate the flywheel to BDC - i.e. 9:00 on your flywheel. Take off sock or whatever, and let the engine cool completely. Read a book or something..
6.) Repeat 8-10 times.. Each time you do a "heat cycle"(thus the name of this method - "heat cycling") you can extend it a bit if you want. After a good 5-6 tanks are through(5-8 good cycles), you can start tuning the needles. Don't go too nuts until a good 1/3 - 1/2 a gallon are through.
For tuning, it's probably best to just watch one of the videos on youtube... Basically, if it's really blubbery when you give gas from a get-go, lean (clockwise) the LSN in small increments. The HSN you can lean in small increments as you go - but for me that's kind of a go-by-feel thing. The main thing is to find the right balance between your idle gap and LSN. Try not to mess with the idle gap at first..
That above though would be my method for break-in.. You need a temp gun - and yeah, a hair drier.
1.) Take out glow plug. Rotate flywheel to point where the piston is at its absolute bottom position. Then, with a sharp screwdriver or something, scratch a little notch on your flyhwheel at 9:00(so, from the right side of the Savage, where you can easily see it...) This way, with the plug in later, you'll know where that BDC - bottom dead center - position is.. Put plug back in.
2.) Wrap head in an old sock, maybe alu foil if it's cooler than like 65F outside..
3.) Ideally, preheat the engine to 200F with a hair-drier for ex. If you prop a cheapo hair-drier at a slight angle (needs to be a slight angle, or you'll fry the hair drier) over the cooling head hole, it should reach 200-ish in about 10-12 minutes.
4.) Start engine. Make sure it stays running. Once it's idling, put it on the ground, and drive it around reaaaaalllyyy slowly in figure-8's, or just back and forth - no more than 1/4 throttle.. Long and slow, back and forth. Monitor the temps. If the temps go above 220F or so, take off the sock/alu foil. If temps are well under 200, lean the HSN by a 1/4 or so. The whole point is to have temps in the 200-225F range.
5.) After about 3-4 minutes, shut off the engine, and immediately rotate the flywheel to BDC - i.e. 9:00 on your flywheel. Take off sock or whatever, and let the engine cool completely. Read a book or something..
6.) Repeat 8-10 times.. Each time you do a "heat cycle"(thus the name of this method - "heat cycling") you can extend it a bit if you want. After a good 5-6 tanks are through(5-8 good cycles), you can start tuning the needles. Don't go too nuts until a good 1/3 - 1/2 a gallon are through.
For tuning, it's probably best to just watch one of the videos on youtube... Basically, if it's really blubbery when you give gas from a get-go, lean (clockwise) the LSN in small increments. The HSN you can lean in small increments as you go - but for me that's kind of a go-by-feel thing. The main thing is to find the right balance between your idle gap and LSN. Try not to mess with the idle gap at first..
That above though would be my method for break-in.. You need a temp gun - and yeah, a hair drier.
Last edited by Herrsavage; 11-14-2012 at 01:12 AM.