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Old 10-07-2012, 06:50 AM   #1
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Default SERVO PROBLEMS HELP.....8ight 2.0

Here's my problem, my throttle servo when out on me while i was racing this past weekend. I have on idea what when wrong with it, and the steering still work fine without any problem. Then i go and replace my old servo with a Hitec standard, something cheap to hold me over for the weekend. An while im running it, it happens again. Nothing wrong with the steering but throttle servo is the same thing.


Radio- Futaba R2104GF
Steering Servo- Hitec Digital Super torque
Throttle Servo- Hitec Standard

HELP HELP HELP
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:54 AM   #2
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Are the linkages binding up somewhere?? What kind of RX pack are you running?
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:09 AM   #3
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nothing is bent or anything like that. the servo stop stopped working period.
i running Protek LiPo 7.4v 2000 mah Rx 8C. i can plug in my steering servo into channel two and it works fine
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:13 AM   #4
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Well that could be your problem. You might be running servos that can't handle the higher voltage of the Lipo. Try high voltage servos or switch to a nimh or life pack.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:17 AM   #5
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Check end points
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:18 AM   #6
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Thats the thing i ran a Nimh the last time this happen. the first time it happen i was using a Savox Digital SC-1256tg
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:37 AM   #7
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Gen 3 tray? Either way check everything. I lost 2 throttle servos this summer. Found 2 possible problems. 1 is make sure your carb slide is pulling out straight. No bend at all from close to WOT. The 2nd is if using the gen 3 make sure the long linkage has some play when you are off throttle/brake.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMenard17 View Post
Check end points
+1. If you switched to a NiMh battery the second time, and you put your good servo in the throttle spot on the Rx and it works good then your throttle servo is bad. Sounds like you have your end points set too far. back them down.

set your throttle to where it barly makes wide open when looking down the carb. You should then be able to use your fingers to pull it a little more open.

For brakes, back it down about 25 notches or so, and then roll it< I suggest using carpet> to see if the tires lock up. If they do, back it off some more. If they dont, increase it about 5 and try again. Once you get them to lock up on the ground, then back it down 2 or 3 notches as it will easily lock up on the dirt.

This is an easy way to set your EPA for throttle/ brakes. It hasnt failed me yet and I have been running the same T/B servo for 4 years. JR 9100s in buggy and truggy.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:59 AM   #9
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im still kinda new to this, but i have no idea what wrong with it. the servo it self doesnt work. on the hitec, the voltage i think was to much, but the savox didnt stop completely stop working it just glitch and move all over the place whn i put on the throttle.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:01 AM   #10
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what are endpoints? google cant even explain it to me without all of bs
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:19 AM   #11
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what are endpoints? google cant even explain it to me without all of bs
EPA on your transmitter. Its as far as the servos can go while at full throttle/brake, or steering. If the EPA is too much, more than whats needed, causes stress on the servo making it break quicker.

Hold steering wheel at full left, lower left steering EPA until while holding at full left, the wheels start turning less left, while still holding full left. Than increase EPA to wear steering is at full left, as far left as the car can steer and stop there, dont increase EPA past as far as full left. Do this with right steering, throttle, and brake too.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:43 AM   #12
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Kind of sounds like you have lost the connection of your servo with the receiver. If you have another one, try changing your receiver.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:13 AM   #13
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Set your EPA's to 5%.

Should have little or no movement to the servos when you apply steering or throttle. Then increase your steering Left/Right EPA until you reach max throw and hear the servo buzz because it's pushing against the steering smashed at full lock. Then dial it back a little so the steering can go to full throw without the servo pushing hard.

Same for throttle. Increase your EPA while holding throttle until the barrel fully opens. Just barely fully open, maybe even leave a little showing. Then make sure that the linkage can still travel another 1/8th inch without the servos help to account for chassis flex.

Adjust your brake EPA until your servo rocks a little on it's rubbeer mounts, no more. Pulling extra hard on the brakes won't stop you faster. Use as littlle brake as possible. Make sure rotors and calipers are in good shape and free of excess play.

Your open EPA settings killed your servos. Try Hitec 7955's once you get a handle on setting EPA's. When servos get "jumpy" they're about to die. It takes some experience to be able to quickly see the difference between radio glitching and servo jumping. Todays better radios shouldn't glithc at all though.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:02 AM   #14
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This might help....
http://www.twf8.ws/php/index.php?opt...=53&Itemid=169
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:36 AM   #15
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Everything is all good. lipo was to much for the servo i had for my throttle. And the end points did help me out. Thanks Guys
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