team associated 1/8 rear hubs?
 

i keep breaking the plastic rear hubs on my rc8t ce. they break right at the bottom hing pin or lower bearing opening. this is my first season running truggy and it has taken a beating and this is the only part i continually break. i have have cartwheeled it to where i was shure it would of broken one and it didnt.
my qustion is are the aluminum ones from associated worth the $65. has anyone ever broken, bent or seen one broken or bent out on the track. on either a buggy or truggy? my concern it the spot where they keep breaking at is where the two "tabs" are on the aluminum ones.

i would hate to buy them and then break them like i do the plastic ones. to me it seems that if i put the aluminum ones on it would just bend the hinge pin or sheer it off before it broke the hub.

these are the ones im looking at.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Hub-Carriers

Check these out http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVAT7 I wouldn't normally put Integy stuff on one of my cars but these do exactly what the AE FT ones do for better then half the cost.

in my past expiernce, i have had problems with Integy parts...they are made out of cheap metals.

id get the AE or if STRC makes them get those...they will be cheaper than AE parts

take a look at these http://fioroni.ipower.com/store/page3.html

Take a look at the Hot Racing ones there $38.00 and there made all of the same alum as the Associated ones and have three holes you might need to sand the inside of them a little bit thats all. www.HobbyEtc.com

Im suprised you broke the plastic ones i never had issues with them on the truggy.

I have integy hubs. No problems. eBay is a good spot to get good deals on any parts! I've scored brand new diff kits for under$10. :tire:

I have a set of FT rear hubs brand new in package I will sell you! Pm me if interested! I have a TON of RC8 stuff that I am trying to move as well so maybe I can get you a bunch of spare parts :)

i have had problems with integy parts on my tmaxx. i would stay away from them. if they hold up then then the associated ones i would think would be stronger.
the hot racing ones are 6065 asluminum and the associated are 7075. it seems they would be the strongest. or the fioroni ones look good too. i like the option of having the third hole on the ae ones.

The Hot racing ones have a third hole like the Associated ones. I thought the Hot Racing ones were 7075 thats what the specs said :confused:

I think personally that $68.00 or more for two pieces of metal is steep.

Get the AE ones, run the set screws, problem solved. They will prob outlast
the rest of the chassis. Why mess around with cheaper ones that MAY work.
Buy once and be done with it.

the hot racing ones are 7075 after going back and looking. it was some other ones that were blue i found that were 6065.

i think i am going to get the associated ones. they got the set screws that keep the pin from turning in he hub to keep the aluminum from wearing out.

Maybe you could try the new plastic 3 holes rear hubs before spending money on aluminum ones.

I run the Factory Aluminum hubs on my 8.2... 100% satisfied :)

[QUOTE=JsK;11163175]Get the AE ones, run the set screws, problem solved. They will prob outlast
the rest of the chassis. Why mess around with cheaper ones that MAY work.
Buy once and be done with it.[/QUOTE



The Hot Racing hubs fit fine they only need minor sanding inside the bearing opening but there cut fine and just as good as the Associated ones and 7075 the black ones. I race with a couple of guys who ran them for a season with no issues.


Sylvain: Yea i want to try out the new plastic rear hibs with three holes but when are they coming out :confused:


Christ: What pin from coming out ?

I agree just get the AE ones and be done with it. Great quality stuff from AE..!!

I am using the FT units on my Nitro 8.2 and the Integy ones on my Tekno 8.2E.
With the Integy, the only drawback is that you either have to not use the plastic bearing protector or, as I did, sand the protector down enough to make it work. Mine have been solid otherwise. :)