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Old 07-18-2012, 12:23 PM
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Sounds like you probably got an aeroplane guy, model flight is usually pretty good just need too speak too the right person but like i said bring it too the track and i will give you a hand.
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:42 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by av4625
oh and i change the gearbox often every 2 meetings and changed pinion and ring gear every 3 or 4 or so, alu inserts are a defo

This is way overkill.

I would say that you should check it after each trackday and see if it is in good condition for the next run. Just a part of the normal cleaning and maintenance routine.

+1 on the alu diff inserts. It will be much easyer to keep it shimmed right because they keep their shape.

As for changing the housing, I did that once a year both front and back along with the arms. If you race a lot then you have to do this more often.
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by av4625
oh and i change the gearbox often every 2 meetings and changed pinion and ring gear every 3 or 4 or so, alu inserts are a defo


If your needing to replace parts that often, Your doing something SERIOUSLY wrong.
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:27 PM
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Im not bashing Losi so dont flame me but why hasnt Losi fixed that issue yet on the 2.0 s ?

Ive seen so many people i race with blow the diffs and gearbox bearings on them i think the easy fix would be to just use hex cut gears just like the SCTE if anything have it as a upgrade part on the 2.0s.
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Im not bashing Losi so dont flame me but why hasnt Losi fixed that issue yet on the 2.0 s ?

Ive seen so many people i race with blow the diffs and gearbox bearings on them i think the easy fix would be to just use hex cut gears just like the SCTE if anything have it as a upgrade part on the 2.0s.
It's as simple as reshimming the diff and replacing the bearings once in a while. If you press the coupler as tight to the bearing as you can, yea it's going to put a drag on the bearings, allowing them to fail and destroy the housing. The only trucks and I see fail are the ones who are owned by people who don't like maintenance. I had the bearings go out during qualifying over the weekend. It wasnt because of the way of the design, it was simply because I have never replaced the bearings like I should have. Now they'll be replaced more often. As long as the diff it shimmed correctly, you will rarely run into an issue.
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Old 07-19-2012, 01:02 PM
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nothing wrong with the diff's
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Old 07-20-2012, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34
It's as simple as reshimming the diff and replacing the bearings once in a while. If you press the coupler as tight to the bearing as you can, yea it's going to put a drag on the bearings, allowing them to fail and destroy the housing. The only trucks and I see fail are the ones who are owned by people who don't like maintenance. I had the bearings go out during qualifying over the weekend. It wasnt because of the way of the design, it was simply because I have never replaced the bearings like I should have. Now they'll be replaced more often. As long as the diff it shimmed correctly, you will rarely run into an issue.
+1 I have never blowen a diff yet in 4 yrs with the same r/p and spider gears ! mobile one grease,little back lash in the r/p, and a little end play on the pinon , the back lash and end play are for the metal to grow when it generates heat from turning 30,000 rpm's ,,,
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34
It's as simple as reshimming the diff and replacing the bearings once in a while. If you press the coupler as tight to the bearing as you can, yea it's going to put a drag on the bearings, allowing them to fail and destroy the housing. The only trucks and I see fail are the ones who are owned by people who don't like maintenance. I had the bearings go out during qualifying over the weekend. It wasnt because of the way of the design, it was simply because I have never replaced the bearings like I should have. Now they'll be replaced more often. As long as the diff it shimmed correctly, you will rarely run into an issue.


Yea makes sense i know bigger gearbox bearings would help on the losi eights with keeping the gear mesh the same. Most of the failures ive seen on the 2.0s are people who run them as electric. Which im thinking is lack of maintence or straight cut gears just cant handle the torque and load that hex cut gears can ran as electric at least.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:33 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Yea makes sense i know bigger gearbox bearings would help on the losi eights with keeping the gear mesh the same. Most of the failures ive seen on the 2.0s are people who run them as electric. Which im thinking is lack of maintence or straight cut gears just cant handle the torque and load that hex cut gears can ran as electric at least.
I ran mine electric and it was just fine and it was meshed on the loose side as well...i think its just a mtnce issue or lack of.
I also remember selling my gas losi truggy to a local racer and he thought my mesh was a little tight so he backed it off and it blew the diff soon after wards ..he has a prity heavy throttle finger tho which i dont think helps.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:15 PM
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Race in electric form and never had a prob!
It is user error, period!
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rc racer 103
+1 I have never blowen a diff yet in 4 yrs with the same r/p and spider gears ! mobile one grease,little back lash in the r/p, and a little end play on the pinon , the back lash and end play are for the metal to grow when it generates heat from turning 30,000 rpm's ,,,
Not that it matters, but after the spur gear reduction, the center driveshafts are turning closer to 10,000 rpm.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:48 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kevinpratt823
Not that it matters, but after the spur gear reduction, the center driveshafts are turning closer to 10,000 rpm.
LOL !!good call your right ! LOL it still generates heat even at 10,000 rpm's thks for keeping me honest !!
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