strgt

Hi Guys, just got an RTR at the end of July and I'm having a few problems. Overall love the car and its unbelievable the abuse it has taken with no damage.

1) When I got it, it looked like all of the stickers were applied incorrectly, almost like there was oil under them and they were not adhering. Contacted AMAIN and they said talk to JQ. Is this something I should contact the US JQ store for or is there another channel for support?

2) The other problem I had was the pull start cord pulled out. Not a big deal as I got a back plate and starter box which is way better IMO. Tried to order a new one and nobody caries it, but it all worked out anyways.

3) Third problem is the throttle servo went last weekend.This I'm a little irked about because I bought this car partly because it came with decent servos. I've since gotten a savox 1258 which I stuck in the steering and moved the working 253mg back to throttle/brake duty. Have any others had these problems and will JQ typically replace them? I have only run 14 tanks through the car.

4) Last problem I have with it is I cant get it to run for more than a few bursts without the temp going up to almost 300*F. I sealed the engine (carb, needle, backplate) with a wicking sealer, zip tied all of the hose connections, and greased the carb needles. I have not checked the L at the tank but I suspect it could also be the tank cap which doesnt seem to fit all that well. Will the sealers work around the base of the L with the tank plastic? I also switched to Byrons Gen2 wth more oil and that seemed to help a bit. This is really a big limiter for any sort of good bashing as I have to sit there and let it cool after any WOT burst. I cant imagine being able to race the car like this. Beside the L is there anything I may have missed to help with the overheating (and its already too rich FYI).

Again, I love this car and even with the issues Id still buy it again. Just want to try and get them resolved, especially #3 and #4.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

2) it's not difficult to repair the pullstarter and most consider it a rite of passage.
3) careful trimming of radio settings would help a bit, the servo needs cushion on the limits of travel as the radio doesn't sport EPA adjustment. Getting a better radio like the Sanwa MX-V or others similar is a good investment.
4)I know the Alpha engines (yours is made by them) have a tendency to run hotter than other engines, don't get hung up on a set number. If the engine sounds happy it IS happy

Hope it helps.

Bonus

+ YouTube Video

Mavtop

iTrader: (1)

Heres my answers:

1) When I got it, it looked like all of the stickers were applied incorrectly, almost like there was oil under them and they were not adhering. Contacted AMAIN and they said talk to JQ. Is this something I should contact the US JQ store for or is there another channel for support?
-resolution: talk to JQ

2) The other problem I had was the pull start cord pulled out. Not a big deal as I got a back plate and starter box which is way better IMO. Tried to order a new one and nobody caries it, but it all worked out anyways.
-same solution here, starter box = win

3) Third problem is the throttle servo went last weekend.This I'm a little irked about because I bought this car partly because it came with decent servos. I've since gotten a savox 1258 which I stuck in the steering and moved the working 253mg back to throttle/brake duty. Have any others had these problems and will JQ typically replace them? I have only run 14 tanks through the car.
-resolution, talk to JQ

4) Last problem I have with it is I cant get it to run for more than a few bursts without the temp going up to almost 300*F. I sealed the engine (carb, needle, backplate) with a wicking sealer, zip tied all of the hose connections, and greased the carb needles. I have not checked the L at the tank but I suspect it could also be the tank cap which doesnt seem to fit all that well. Will the sealers work around the base of the L with the tank plastic? I also switched to Byrons Gen2 wth more oil and that seemed to help a bit. This is really a big limiter for any sort of good bashing as I have to sit there and let it cool after any WOT burst. I cant imagine being able to race the car like this. Beside the L is there anything I may have missed to help with the overheating (and its already too rich FYI).
-There was an issue with the cooling heads of some of the rtrs earlier this year (ARMA ENERGY 2016 RTR), and I was sent a new cooling head by amain after JQ spoke with them. So resolution, talk to JQ

Here is the email to use, they typically get back to you in a day or two:
[email protected]
or you can always ask Liam, JQ's second in command.
[email protected]

Both are really nice and should be able to help you out with any questions or concerns.

strgt

Thanks a ton

wombat

iTrader: (31)

What was the cooling head issue exactly, do you know?

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

does anyone know which kit the RTR is interchangeable with in regards to parts? White? Yellow?

Reason I ask is if I were to buy the RTR, and slowly upgrade KEY parts (shock towers, shocks, etc)would I essentially be able to upgrade it to the "kit" per say?

Now before you go and say just buy the kit, Im getting back in to the hobby after a 10 year break. Im saving for a house so I cant see myself dropping $1K+ right now, as much as I would love to lol

ozziii

Nearly all Yellow Edition parts can bolt straight on, the RTR already shares alot of parts with the Y.E anyway. Front steering knuckles, shock towers, A,B,C,D arm holders all fit, engine mounts fit as well.
The RTR chassis & side guards are different but if you're going to upgrade them, then you're better off getting the 2013 wide chassis & side guards, & the 2013 steering set up, which are both the same as the White Edition.
Really, if you got all the W.E arms, steering knuckles & hubs then they would all fit as well.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

good to know, thanks!

Maybe I'll keep my eyes peeled for a race ready kit. Im sure with the Black Edition around the corner people on here will be selling theirs