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Old 06-02-2012, 05:43 PM   #1
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Default A Silly LOCTITE Question

Howdy all.

I'm working on a new build and decided to switch over from Tamiya's Thread Lock (which I've used successfully since the 80s) over to LOCTITE because it's easier to get locally. Anyway, I pick up a tube of Blue 242 and the first thing I notice is that this stuff is very runny compared to what I've been using before. Also, the Loctite feels greasy and doesn't seem to harden, even hours after application. Is it just me, or is this stuff complete sh*t?

Before anyone asks, the tube was brand new and yes, I degreased the screws prior and I did shake it vigorously before use.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:47 PM   #2
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Howdy all.

I'm working on a new build and decided to switch over from Tamiya's Thread Lock (which I've used successfully since the 80s) over to LOCTITE because it's easier to get locally. Anyway, I pick up a tube of Blue 242 and the first thing I notice is that this stuff is very runny compared to what I've been using before. Also, the Loctite feels greasy and doesn't seem to harden, even hours after application. Is it just me, or is this stuff complete sh*t?

Before anyone asks, the tube was brand new and yes, I did shake it vigorously before use.
mine seems to work fine. what i do even if the screw or whatever im using it in is new, i clean it with just brake cleaner to get any unwanted oils and such off and then apply it but you don't apply to much as with this stuff u need a lot less then other types is what ive noticed

hopefully this helps
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:47 PM   #3
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Blue loctite takes up to 24hrs to fully cure. I use the red 263 loctite and that still takes up to 6hrs to properly cure as well. Does the tamiya stuff dry a lot faster?
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:52 PM   #4
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The Loctite 242 is the good stuff. Excellent for pinion gears on motors, and nitro motor mounting screws. For critical screws, clean screw with wire brush, spray with electroclean/brakeclean, then apply a small amount of thread lock. Too much hurts, not helps.

242 is anaerobic. It will only dry in the absence of oxygen. The bottle is air permeable, amazing it deosn't leak. If you pour threadlock into a different bottle it'll dry up and go bad.

The Tamiya stuff you're used to is junk. Once you get used to the 242 you'll find it's far better. Keep in min that overapplication will slow cure time alot. It used to take an entire night for my nitro screws to setup perfect, now I use less and it's only a couple hours.

But the thicker blue gell loctites have their place. Maybe better on hub pin setscrews and screws that you remove for maintanence and are less critical.
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:56 PM   #5
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Edit: Zero said almost exactly what I was going to..
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:18 PM   #6
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The Loctite 242 is the good stuff. Excellent for pinion gears on motors, and nitro motor mounting screws. For critical screws, clean screw with wire brush, spray with electroclean/brakeclean, then apply a small amount of thread lock. Too much hurts, not helps.

242 is anaerobic. It will only dry in the absence of oxygen. The bottle is air permeable, amazing it deosn't leak. If you pour threadlock into a different bottle it'll dry up and go bad.

The Tamiya stuff you're used to is junk. Once you get used to the 242 you'll find it's far better. Keep in min that overapplication will slow cure time alot. It used to take an entire night for my nitro screws to setup perfect, now I use less and it's only a couple hours.

But the thicker blue gell loctites have their place. Maybe better on hub pin setscrews and screws that you remove for maintanence and are less critical.
Hi Zero.

Interesting, I didn't know that 242 only cured without the presence of oxygen. I guess that explains why the residue on the cap and neck of the squeeze tube is still moist even after 24 hours.

I'm curious as to why you feel that Tamiya thread lock is junk? I've never ever had a screw back-out on me while using it, and doesn't cause any issues for removal either... Plus it sets well enough to use after about an hour.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:13 PM   #7
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I'm just guessing that the Tamiya stuff is similar to the Loctite gel in the plastic twist push-up applicator. Done right, the 242 glues things on much tighter.

I even glue my pinions to my motor shafts. I use nothing on the setscrew.

I'm sure the gel works, but not for me in RC applications. I've had great luck with the gel locktite blue on Rifle stocks.

I'll stick to the thin messy 242. Besides it tastes delicious. (don't drink it)
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:36 AM   #8
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I'm just guessing that the Tamiya stuff is similar to the Loctite gel in the plastic twist push-up applicator. Done right, the 242 glues things on much tighter.

I even glue my pinions to my motor shafts. I use nothing on the setscrew.

I'm sure the gel works, but not for me in RC applications. I've had great luck with the gel locktite blue on Rifle stocks.

I'll stick to the thin messy 242. Besides it tastes delicious. (don't drink it)
Yup, Tamiya Thread Lock is a viscous blue gel, comes in a little tube. It's entirely possible that LOCTITE 242 works better, I guess the fact that I didn't understand how it works threw me off slightly. I'll give the stuff a go.

For what it's worth, I wouldn't completely discount the Tamiya stuff though, it does dry quickly and can be useful for things like wheel nuts and last minute repairs. The only aspect where it might not excel is in areas/components that are prone to high heat: engine screws, pipe mounting, etc. The good thing with 242 is that you know it's good to 300 Farenheit.
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:45 AM   #9
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Default Thread locker formulated for any rc application.

http://www.bukupower.com/Threadlocker.aspx
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:04 PM   #10
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242 is about the best around. You might want to shake up the bottle real good before you use it as there does seem to be a bit of separation with it sometimes. The only thing I like better is the blue loctite glue stick. Perhaps not quite as strong but perfect for screws you need to get back out a lot without stripping screws or breaking wrenches.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #11
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Interesting. I could use something that works good on plastic. Might have to give that stuff a try.
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:42 PM   #12
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zero got it perfect
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