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Old 05-27-2012, 08:05 AM   #31
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As you can see from my sig I drive a Kyosho, so it may come as a suprise when I say get a Mugen. The MP9 has been dogged with what I consider unacceptable problems from day one and the latest TKI3 is no different so if you are looking for reliability then maybe a Mugen is the go. Other than front arms I haven't heard or observed many problems with Mugen. In all fairness to Kyosho though I have never owned or maintained a Mugen.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:21 AM   #32
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jeez steve i would of never herd the day when i thought youd say that but i agree i have recently brought both and i like the mugen better but thats my opinion
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:54 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
It may be wise to also add the Xray XB9 to this conversation.

I just finished building one. They fixed all the bugs the 808 had. Better shocks, way more suspension travel, adjustabe hinge pin bulkheads, and olde fashioned normal reliable pinion gears. (the direct pinions were sweet and light, but fragile and hard to shim)

RTR mine weighs 7.0 pounds.
I would toss the Serpent buggy into the ring with the top cars as well. It used a system similar to the XRAY's driveline but came up with a different solution. That's another buggy that's tough as nails and impressive to drive. I would also give it an edge over the XRAY in that parts are far easier to find.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:17 PM   #34
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jeez steve i would of never herd the day when i thought youd say that but i agree i have recently brought both and i like the mugen better but thats my opinion
Don't get me wrong Phil, I think the Kyosho is a better drive. Since old man Kyosho passed away the quality has gone to seed.
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:20 AM   #35
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How come everybody wants the BEST car available out there. Well there is not a BEST car. It just looks better because you drive awesome. And people think it is better.
You should choose based on the facts that:

a) it is the cheapest
b) the part support
c) the setups available locally

If you still can not decide flip a coin

If Tebo wins with the kyosho he could probably win with an Xray with the right setup.

Last edited by janga; 05-28-2012 at 01:55 AM.
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:03 AM   #36
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you are already running mbx6 eco and if you dont plan to ditch it then go get mbx6-r. you dont have to carry another set of spares. kyosho and mugen are good buggies but mugen is cheaper. with kyosho spares to carry, it's probably close to a price of 2 mugen rollers. whichever you get, just learn how to drive it and keep dialing it to suit your driving style.
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:55 AM   #37
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I've driven both, I started with a mugen, great buggy mbx6. About two years ago a bought the SE version and loved the way it handled. Then I went with a losi, worst mistake ever!! Left racing for about 8 month. Started again with a mbx6r, car handles great but not aswell as kyosho. Now I have both but I couldnt justify the price of a kysho so I bought it used off of a friend. The SE version I had was so cheap in quality that it showed much more wear than my 1year 1/2 old mugen vs my 3 month old kyosho.

The difference in handling was that I felt the kyosho more connected to the ground and had alot more consistant turning, the rear didnt feel bouncy and loose like the mugen.

Mugen is very good buggy but the kyosho has a slight advantage in handling.
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:02 AM   #38
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I own a Kyosho tki2 and have driven a Mugen mbx6. As far as the way they drive, Kyosho wins hands down..... Way easier to drive! As far as gripes about the Kyosho, the front shock tower bends easy and the car/parts are expensive. That's it! I ran Associated for around 3 years and when I made the switch to Kyosho my lap times dropped significantly. Around a second per lap.........
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:10 AM   #39
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I think if you get a kyosho, you should look at it as an investment because of the headaches that come with it along with the high sticker price. I own a TKI2 and without a doubt it is the best overall kit PERFORMANCE wise I have owned! I have owned 4 kits up to date and each outshine a competitor somewhere in a different category. First was the JQ which I sold off. Second is the 2011spec Xray808 which still own. Third is Serpent811 which I still own. Last but not least is my TKI2.

It is no secret they the mp9 has had its issues with parts on the car. I have broken a rear drive shaft, 2 front lower arms, and 1 front upper arm to date. The arms were totally my fault from overly aggressive driving. The rear drive shaft should have never happened in my opinion.

With that said, if you are a serious racer you should always have spares on deck just in case of breaks on any given day. I don't get upset when I break something because I have already invested a lot into the car with many spares so I can keep my race program going. If you get the kyosho just know that you are getting the best handling car on the market BUT at the expense of a few breaks here and there unless you are a top level driver who doesn't make mistakes then you don't have anything to worry about.

If you want a good car minus the few breaks here and there, I'd suggest you go the Xray route. Very capable car and arguably the most durable car on the market imo. FWIW if I were to ever switch brands again, Im going right back to Xray.
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:21 AM   #40
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+1 on the Xray! I flogged a used '10 spec 808 last summer when I got back into racing. Now my 11 year old son has been racing it for about 6 months and I must say this is the toughest car I've ever seen. Just a week ago at a big race there was a 35' double that has big bricks lining the sides of the landings. He came up short and flat landed on one which totally taco'd the chassis the the point of shearing off most of the radio tray screws, one fuel tank post screw and cracking the chassis. He raced another 10 minutes to finish the main!
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:04 AM   #41
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Prices at AMAIN KYOSHO / MUGEN

LOWER FR. ARMS 13.49 / 13.49
UPPER FR. A ARMS 9.29 / 11.75
REAR A ARMS 11.75 / 14.99
13TH BELL 25.99 / 17.99
CLUTCH SHOES 20.49 / 25.99
CLUTCH SPRINGS 4.59 / 5.49
FLYWHEEL 19.99 / 25.99
PINION GEAR 16.99 / 14.99
RING GEAR 32.99 / 43.99
DIFF CASE 7.29 / 7.79
FR/RR DIFF CUPS 13.49 / 16.49
BULKHEAD 9.25 / 16.99
SPUR GEAR 26.99 / 43.99
FR/RR Shafts 44.99 / 58.99

TOTAL $257.58 / $318.92
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:40 AM   #42
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the only thing you'll probably end up breaking on a mugen alot if you wreck alot is the front a-arms... and this is coming from someone who wrecks alot on some nasty tracks....i dont care for these silky smooth manicured tracks alot of people run on...a cars durability wont be tested on those. you just need to go read the last 10-15 pages of the TKI3 thread to see what issues people are having, and according to your list and the amount of flamy faces in the posts they are expensive issues i wreck alot, and other than front lower a-arms i have not broken ANY part on my mugen yet...my last ones i boiled...yes like the kyosho team drivers do tho their arms too...and i am yet to break a arm again. mugen driveshafts shafts make even the hudy springsteel on the xray's look like bread sticks ( i owned a 2009 and 2011 808)...the pins will wear out waaaay before the shafts deform..if ever. xray centre shafts go all wobbly after a few nice tumbles although they are otherwise bullitproof cars, more than any mugen or kyosho. I dear anyone to drive all three these cars into a steel pipe and bet against the xray to be the only one driving away lol. Since the R spec mugen kit with 5mm carbon towers, breakages in this region is also a thing of the past...but i have always used the M2C carbon tower protectors on all my cars since the xrays...so maybe that is why i havent broken one. i havent broken bulkheads, who uses stock clutches anymore? so who buys a mugen/kyosho flywheel?? Same argument can be had with the clutch springs and shoes. Im of the opinion that if you are wearing out pinion or any gears on any car you dont know how to mesh your gears or it is time for new kit... in any case , just by looking at this list it seems you selectively listed parts that are more expensive on either or. Im sure i can go find other things on amain hobbies that cost more on one car than the other and vice-versa.

people should just buy what they think they want..you'll know soon enough if you made the right choice or not and then, if you are like me..you'll set the disturbance in the force right soon enough by selling the thing off and getting the other one instead lol.
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Last edited by Sideshow Bob; 05-29-2012 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:34 PM   #43
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Just read the Kyosho thread for all its issues. Outdrives breaking, etc.
As much as it costs, it should come perfect, and no need for additional parts.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:38 PM   #44
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Just read the Kyosho thread for all its issues. Outdrives breaking, etc.
As much as it costs, it should come perfect, and no need for additional parts.
some TKI3 kits had over tempered outdrives, and are being replaced by Kyosho.. thanks..

On another note, the TKI3 kit also has the harder front shock tower, and the thicker driveshafts. As much as Cody runs, and with so much on the line every time he races, we haven't had ANY (and I mean any) mechanical failures. Everything that we have had issues with had nothing to do with the car (fuel line, incident on track, etc.) my 2 centavos
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:52 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btsmith49 View Post
Prices at AMAIN KYOSHO / MUGEN

LOWER FR. ARMS 13.49 / 13.49
UPPER FR. A ARMS 9.29 / 11.75
REAR A ARMS 11.75 / 14.99
13TH BELL 25.99 / 17.99
CLUTCH SHOES 20.49 / 25.99
CLUTCH SPRINGS 4.59 / 5.49
FLYWHEEL 19.99 / 25.99
PINION GEAR 16.99 / 14.99
RING GEAR 32.99 / 43.99
DIFF CASE 7.29 / 7.79
FR/RR DIFF CUPS 13.49 / 16.49
BULKHEAD 9.25 / 16.99
SPUR GEAR 26.99 / 43.99
FR/RR Shafts 44.99 / 58.99

TOTAL $257.58 / $318.92
For me the cost of the parts have absolutely F/A to do with it, it's the dnf's that piss me off.
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