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Old 03-30-2012, 02:22 PM   #1
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Default Need ideas for Nitro Stampede 'walking' issue

Ok, so I have a Npede I fitted a .28 engine to, and it tends to steer randomly when de-celerating (with throttle on remote neutral). This happens on pavement, concrete, and after slowing down past say 35mph. Also, it did this some with the pro .15 engine, but not as noticeable. I'm guessing the added power made this characteristic more obvious. Only mods done are the engine swap, big bores lowered about 1/8in., slash 4x4 driveshafts, rear bearings (came with olite bushings for some reason?), mod .01 spur and clutch bell.

I'm mainly looking for ways to add weight to the front end, as I ended up zip-tying a socket behind the front bumper and had better handling and almost no 'walking', but I'm open to any suggestions to lessen that effect.

I currently have in mind using stick on weights, like what the crawler guys use, on the empty space between the front bumper and bulkhead, then filling in the cracks with JB weld. Maybe doing the same with the recesses on the front a-arms.

Again, all suggestions welcome, and thanks guys!
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Umm, what does overkill mean again?
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:11 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by meno1103 View Post
Ok, so I have a Npede I fitted a .28 engine to, and it tends to steer randomly when de-celerating (with throttle on remote neutral). This happens on pavement, concrete, and after slowing down past say 35mph. Also, it did this some with the pro .15 engine, but not as noticeable. I'm guessing the added power made this characteristic more obvious. Only mods done are the engine swap, big bores lowered about 1/8in., slash 4x4 driveshafts, rear bearings (came with olite bushings for some reason?), mod .01 spur and clutch bell.

I'm mainly looking for ways to add weight to the front end, as I ended up zip-tying a socket behind the front bumper and had better handling and almost no 'walking', but I'm open to any suggestions to lessen that effect.

I currently have in mind using stick on weights, like what the crawler guys use, on the empty space between the front bumper and bulkhead, then filling in the cracks with JB weld. Maybe doing the same with the recesses on the front a-arms.

Again, all suggestions welcome, and thanks guys!
Lighter weight engine, less problem. Hummmmmm.
You may need to use heavier rear springs/oil. I'd also check your ride height front and rear.
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:33 PM   #3
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Lighter weight engine, less problem. Hummmmmm.
You may need to use heavier rear springs/oil. I'd also check your ride height front and rear.
Well I don't have a scale, though I am seriously considering getting one now, but the .15 had the ez-start setup, and this .28 is roto start, so maybe not so much heavier? But yes, I changed to 45wt front and 50wt rear, with progressive springs rear. Mentioning ride height, I might just try a slanted setup: lower front, higher rear. Maybe that will transfer more weight to the front while slowing down.
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Umm, what does overkill mean again?
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:22 PM   #4
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I know this thread is a little old sorry about this but i have a nitro pede also i was modding. I put a 1200mah rx pack xip tied up front on the body post and added a slash 2wd front bumper incase i wanted to add some wheel weights to it which would have held it down better. a .28engine is a bit big but do able thats for sure congrats on putting such a large engine in there. adding maybe a proline runtime tank if you can mount it right making a mounting plate to use the same holes as stock will add a little more weight to the center which i added for longer runtimes and a 2.5R engine. add some larger wheels also like 3.2's or 3.8's but you have to use 17mm adapters. there is a thread on traxxas.com in the nitro pede forum there someone used 17mm hex's all around give a look.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:18 PM   #5
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Have you tried a different set of tires bu chance??. But the off throttle spin out is likely because of weight transfer and wheel lock up. When letting off the throttle the clutch does not fully disengage so this will cause the rear wheels to slip. Lighten the shock oil back to 40-45 with a medium spring and heavy spring plus 50-60 wt should resolve it but putting more weight in the front would only make thing worse right??
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