Best way to get more rear traction?
#1
Best way to get more rear traction?
RC8B with standard setup
Pretty low traction track and pretty bumpy (not that I have seen a manicured USA style track like ever lol)
Standard springs and shock oil.
I like the spring rates and damping.
But the car oversteers too much for my liking. Under power it will 4 wheel drift which is pretty nice, but the tiniest amount of throttle reduction in a corner will make it oversteer.
Coming out of a corner it will wag the back end side to side quite a bit.
If I sit stationary at full lock and nail the throttle it rotates around the front wheels, ie it will do a donut on the spot, whereas most buggies I see will gradually drift outwards
In setup guides it seems most things I can do to increase rear traction result in it not squaring up on power so it seems I can't fix both problems?
What is the one first thing you would do - as I said, not springs or shock oil weight.
Pretty low traction track and pretty bumpy (not that I have seen a manicured USA style track like ever lol)
Standard springs and shock oil.
I like the spring rates and damping.
But the car oversteers too much for my liking. Under power it will 4 wheel drift which is pretty nice, but the tiniest amount of throttle reduction in a corner will make it oversteer.
Coming out of a corner it will wag the back end side to side quite a bit.
If I sit stationary at full lock and nail the throttle it rotates around the front wheels, ie it will do a donut on the spot, whereas most buggies I see will gradually drift outwards
In setup guides it seems most things I can do to increase rear traction result in it not squaring up on power so it seems I can't fix both problems?
What is the one first thing you would do - as I said, not springs or shock oil weight.
#2
Tech Initiate
You might want to follow this general advices :
- Use thinner Diff oil in the rear diff.
- Increase the rear toe in .
- Use the outer hole for the schock on the lower rear arm .
- Use the inner hole in the rear shock tower.
- Soften your rear shocks spring.
- Use thinner Diff oil in the rear diff.
- Increase the rear toe in .
- Use the outer hole for the schock on the lower rear arm .
- Use the inner hole in the rear shock tower.
- Soften your rear shocks spring.
#3
Thanks c2k.
Doesn't thinner rear diff oil do the opposite? Manual suggests it does.
I am aware of shock mounting locations and will try it
But can't soften rear spring, it is the softest already!
Doesn't thinner rear diff oil do the opposite? Manual suggests it does.
I am aware of shock mounting locations and will try it
But can't soften rear spring, it is the softest already!
#4
#5
More downforce to the rear wheels by adjusting your wing.
#8
A couple things I would try would be to run a softer rear sway bar and also to use the upper hole in the rear hubs. When I changed to the upper hole in the hubs I also moved to the lowest hole on the tower (camber link).
#10
no no no guys this is a rc8 its needs to be a square car keep the diff oils the same other wise you will be chasing your tail.
mark what track are you on as the rc8 is only a good buggy in the club racers hands in high bite tracks when the traction drops the buggy is a real hand full.
with the rc8 and 8.2 the best way is to drive around it cos if you change the settings much it makes it shit what engine are you running bro
try going for a motor with less bang see if a nova btta is available to bowwor they have a very mellow bottom also i found aka tires to be best i beam in soft red inserts
try going 4 4 4 in the diffs and set it up to let weight transfer to back of car smooth
mark what track are you on as the rc8 is only a good buggy in the club racers hands in high bite tracks when the traction drops the buggy is a real hand full.
with the rc8 and 8.2 the best way is to drive around it cos if you change the settings much it makes it shit what engine are you running bro
try going for a motor with less bang see if a nova btta is available to bowwor they have a very mellow bottom also i found aka tires to be best i beam in soft red inserts
try going 4 4 4 in the diffs and set it up to let weight transfer to back of car smooth
#11
What tires r u running ,what springs ,oil in shocks and diffs??? what clutch and springs, engine and whats the track like ,,hard packed, loose and loamy?And how long have you been racen ? what camber front and back ?toe front and back ,rear anti squat?? Theres a lot of things that make a car not handle like you want but ya got to know these few things to get ya in the ball park !
#12
What tires r u running ,what springs ,oil in shocks and diffs??? what clutch and springs, engine and whats the track like ,,hard packed, loose and loamy?And how long have you been racen ? what camber front and back ?toe front and back ,rear anti squat?? Theres a lot of things that make a car not handle like you want but ya got to know these few things to get ya in the ball park !
All I want to do is make the car oversteer less and I think a few people misunderstood the question........ I know the list of changes I can make and they WILL increase rear traction but many also reduce the ability to square up on power when exiting a corner. I don't want to trade off the latter.
I want to increase lateral rear grip but also square up on power better (it tail wags bad)
#13
the Rc8.2 and rc8B both have a ton of steering, a very simple way is to dail it out using your radio epas, front toe can effect it too.
#15
OK - done a lot more reading and it appears rear upper link location may be best to try first.
Question then - when they talk about moving the rear upper link IN does that mean increasing negative camber? OR do they mean move it in but also lengthen it so camber is not affected?
Similarly when they talk about lengthening the link - do they really mean reduce the negative camber and it is just easier to say lengthen the link?
Question then - when they talk about moving the rear upper link IN does that mean increasing negative camber? OR do they mean move it in but also lengthen it so camber is not affected?
Similarly when they talk about lengthening the link - do they really mean reduce the negative camber and it is just easier to say lengthen the link?