R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-25-2012, 03:57 AM   #16
c2k
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 26
Default

Mark_Australia.

If you want to start with the rear camber link you might want to change the length of it making it longer .

using the inner hole in the tower and the outer hole in the rear hub.

If the resulting camber changes after you move the camber link position, change the length until camber fits your needs.

BTW i have a very loose track here and i know people run 5-5-5 in their 8.2

Cheers,
c2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 06:11 AM   #17
Tech Adept
 
John Sullivan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 226
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark _australia View Post
OK - done a lot more reading and it appears rear upper link location may be best to try first.

Question then - when they talk about moving the rear upper link IN does that mean increasing negative camber? OR do they mean move it in but also lengthen it so camber is not affected?
Similarly when they talk about lengthening the link - do they really mean reduce the negative camber and it is just easier to say lengthen the link?
That is what i would suggest,lengthen rear camber link and lower position on tower it will square up coming off the corner hope this helps
__________________
LEISURE HOURS RACEWAY
John Sullivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 06:34 AM   #18
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 237
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Sullivan View Post
That is what i would suggest,lengthen rear camber link and lower position on tower it will square up coming off the corner hope this helps
OK makes sense - lower rear link to get it to square up better, but also lengthen it to get more rear traction.

BUT I am still confused as to whether lengthening it means changing the camber?
Mark _australia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 06:48 AM   #19
Tech Adept
 
99problems's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: MIA
Posts: 127
Default

Go to a shorter wheelbase
__________________
Don't be a "CYBER BULLY" bring it to the TRACK!!
POINT and PULL!!
99problems is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 07:28 AM   #20
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 571
Default

- shorten wheelbase
- less antisquat
- more rear toe
gt racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 07:29 AM   #21
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 577
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default Camber

When they say go with a linger rear link that means make it long but adjust your camber to where it was originally
__________________
Reds racing USA
AKA
KO Propo USA
Sidewinder fuel
Upgrade Rc
Drip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 07:35 AM   #22
Tech Lord
 
Frank L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NorCal
Posts: 12,499
Trader Rating: 148 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drip View Post
When they say go with a linger rear link that means make it long but adjust your camber to where it was originally
Yep
__________________
- X-Ray/ RC America Team Driver - MKS -
- XB8 - XB8T - XB8 E - OS Spec III - B2102 - 4PXR -
~ SSC ~ Godfather ~ Ironman ~ ButterySmooth ~
Frank L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 11:19 AM   #23
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,055
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark _australia View Post
Pretty irrelevant - and I said standard book setup. The tyres offer the best grip I will get on this track.
All I want to do is make the car oversteer less and I think a few people misunderstood the question........ I know the list of changes I can make and they WILL increase rear traction but many also reduce the ability to square up on power when exiting a corner. I don't want to trade off the latter.
I want to increase lateral rear grip but also square up on power better (it tail wags bad)
WOW ! Just trying to help ya ! The things that I listed are very relevant imo
Good luck !
rc racer 103 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 06:03 PM   #24
Tech Addict
 
Marz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 586
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

On X3 I run front stiffest springs on rear, half rebound, thin shock oil.
Gives perfect amount of rear traction without bogging down the rear too
much.
__________________
Hong Nor | OS | Spektrum
Marz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 08:52 PM   #25
Tech Master
 
Nitro Tiger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Near a beach
Posts: 1,400
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark _australia View Post
OK - done a lot more reading and it appears rear upper link location may be best to try first.

Question then - when they talk about moving the rear upper link IN does that mean increasing negative camber? OR do they mean move it in but also lengthen it so camber is not affected?
Similarly when they talk about lengthening the link - do they really mean reduce the negative camber and it is just easier to say lengthen the link?
Im no expert racer but lengthing the rear upper links you are changing the roll centre geometry.
Where the Hudy guide says-Longer link (inner hole on tower and/or
outer hole on hub)
• Decreases rear camber gain
• Increases stability
• Slows down the car‘s responsiveness


Yesterday I had this issue running a setup from another track going back to my local track, hard packed very loose, massive over steer coming out of turns.
I fixed this by lowering rear roll centre ( raise rear upper links), it reduces a bit of steering but had plenty anyway but increase rear traction also not sure on your shock weight from front to back but i had to increase the rear oil WT which helped alot too which helped the wheels to be more planted under throttle.

In the past also found clutch setup is very important on a loose track, I went from a 3x alloy shoe to a 4 shoe running 2x carbon and 2x alloy, made a huge difference so much smoother and progressive on takeoff.

Diff oils play a big part in how your power is being delivered also, I know I have a different car but most guys at my local track run the 553 in the diffs.

Hope this helps
__________________
Wade Lazich- NSW 1/8 IC State Delegate.
Thankyou for your support- Werks Racing USA/ Pro Rc Supplies/ Aka Aust./ Ryper Hobbies

LRD- Australian distributor of Werks Race Blend 30% fuel. Dedicated solely to the supply of racing products for 1/8 scale nitro Rc. -lazrd.com.au-

Last edited by Nitro Tiger; 03-25-2012 at 09:02 PM.
Nitro Tiger is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent to 1/10th EP Touring Kit S400 rcforum Electric On-Road 3296 05-31-2013 01:48 PM
what's the best way to tame my rear end (8 2.0) mk74 Nitro Off-Road 19 06-01-2011 09:32 AM
Whats the best way to balance your TC? Yokomo_Ant3 Electric On-Road 20 07-21-2009 12:58 PM
New to electric touring ... TC4 + brushless ... tips ? Tabushi Electric On-Road 9 07-22-2008 08:22 PM
What buggy to get B4, XXXCR or RB5? NickPapageorgio Electric Off-Road 31 05-29-2008 01:54 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:01 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net