Jammin#2

iTrader: (3)

So I've been thinking about this for awhile now. Why hasn't anyone come up with a true drive shaft design with like a u joint on both sides of the shaft????
Id think it would get rid a few problems like drive cup wear, and would get rid of the chance of them popping out during a race.
your thoughts????

LosiPRRACER

because the shaft moves in and out of the cup during up and down travel.

and working on the car in a hurry would be a PIA as its just something else to take apart to get the car apart.

Jammin#2

iTrader: (3)

Good point! Lol
But i mean thinking now traxxas did it with the tmaxx, like Im thinking a modified more robust design that could take the punishment of 1/8 scale.

motomatt

iTrader: (12)

The XO1

metal drive shafts with u-joints

BrakeTurnAccelerate

iTrader: (40)

The traxxas plastic slider shafts are junk, especially in a racing situation. You would need to basically copy a full size car CV-joint, which would be way to intricate in small scale.

LosiPRRACER

yeah those slider shafts are crap

Jammin#2

iTrader: (3)

O trust me those plastic slider drive shafts are crap dont get me wrong but you cant tell me u couldnt refine that design into something way better.

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

Chassis flex would kill em quickly, unless you figured a way to have a spring somewhere along the driveline front and rear

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

I've thought about it myself. I don't see why it couldn't be done, and last longer too, as long as it doesn't use set screws that can come out on the center outdrive area it would be awesome...

The current stuff wears out too fast and costs too much IMO...

RCmayor

iTrader: (9)

Not if you run a Serpent. lol

Morpheus847

iTrader: (23)

How about just remove the drive cups replace that with a splined shaft and put a slip yoke on the other end of the cvd/universal it would look just like the hub side of a 4wd joint just a little larger in diameter and splined on the inside. Same thing as the output on a auto tranny.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Sliding shafts have been tried in fullsize racing for years and they just dont perform well. Simple is usually the best solution and for that, the CVA/CVD is tough to beat. Replacing a pin every month or so isnt what I'd call heavy maintenance; only takes a couple minutes and you're back in action.

houston

iTrader: (96)

or the whole season on kyosho shafts

our designs are simple yet effective for a reason , you will figure it out '


there is always room for innovation though

it just has to be on the edge of inside/outside the box

redbones

how do you think these will hold up for 1/8th?

http://www.rcracer.co.nz/Forum/viewt...hp?f=12&t=3367

am

There are several reassons for why a normal car drivehsft couplung would not work very good for our use.

First is the extreame amaount of suspension travel. It is many many times of normal car.

Second, it would be alot more expensive, think what it would coast to change a driveshaft.

Third, it would be hell to wrench on our cars. You would need to find a secure way to attaceh the driveshaft to the diff, so it will not take anymore time than it does today.

forth, the friction in the CVD/CVA joint has some effekt to how the car is handling. With a normal cars driveshaft friction is alot less under power, and f. eks Losi is one of the cars that is loose on the rear end before the drivshafts wears in.