R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-19-2012, 03:07 PM   #1
Tech Adept
 
Jammin#2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Beach Park, IL
Posts: 172
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default CVD's????? True drive shaft design????

So I've been thinking about this for awhile now. Why hasn't anyone come up with a true drive shaft design with like a u joint on both sides of the shaft????
Id think it would get rid a few problems like drive cup wear, and would get rid of the chance of them popping out during a race.
your thoughts????
__________________
RELAX!!! It's a toy car race!
The TRACK @ Harbor Hobbies https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Track-at-Harbor-Hobbies/125266694216753?sk=timeline
Team Associated RC8.2, RC8BE, SC10RS, TC5M, B5M, TC5R, B44.3
Jammin X1CR FTE, Corraly RDX Phi 09, 3Racing F1-09
Jammin#2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 04:13 PM   #2
Tech Fanatic
 
LosiPRRACER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 767
Default

because the shaft moves in and out of the cup during up and down travel.

and working on the car in a hurry would be a PIA as its just something else to take apart to get the car apart.
__________________
Hotbodies d815 / RCCONCEPT / Savox / Proline / Futaba 4px
LosiPRRACER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 04:20 PM   #3
Tech Adept
 
Jammin#2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Beach Park, IL
Posts: 172
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Good point! Lol
But i mean thinking now traxxas did it with the tmaxx, like Im thinking a modified more robust design that could take the punishment of 1/8 scale.
__________________
RELAX!!! It's a toy car race!
The TRACK @ Harbor Hobbies https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Track-at-Harbor-Hobbies/125266694216753?sk=timeline
Team Associated RC8.2, RC8BE, SC10RS, TC5M, B5M, TC5R, B44.3
Jammin X1CR FTE, Corraly RDX Phi 09, 3Racing F1-09
Jammin#2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 04:26 PM   #4
Tech Master
 
motomatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WI
Posts: 1,283
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

The XO1

metal drive shafts with u-joints

Last edited by motomatt; 03-19-2012 at 04:43 PM.
motomatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 04:27 PM   #5
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 976
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin#2 View Post
Good point! Lol
But i mean thinking now traxxas did it with the tmaxx, like Im thinking a modified more robust design that could take the punishment of 1/8 scale.
The traxxas plastic slider shafts are junk, especially in a racing situation. You would need to basically copy a full size car CV-joint, which would be way to intricate in small scale.
BrakeTurnAccelerate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 04:31 PM   #6
Tech Fanatic
 
LosiPRRACER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 767
Default

yeah those slider shafts are crap
__________________
Hotbodies d815 / RCCONCEPT / Savox / Proline / Futaba 4px
LosiPRRACER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 04:35 PM   #7
Tech Adept
 
Jammin#2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Beach Park, IL
Posts: 172
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

O trust me those plastic slider drive shafts are crap dont get me wrong but you cant tell me u couldnt refine that design into something way better.
__________________
RELAX!!! It's a toy car race!
The TRACK @ Harbor Hobbies https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Track-at-Harbor-Hobbies/125266694216753?sk=timeline
Team Associated RC8.2, RC8BE, SC10RS, TC5M, B5M, TC5R, B44.3
Jammin X1CR FTE, Corraly RDX Phi 09, 3Racing F1-09
Jammin#2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 07:06 PM   #8
Tech Lord
 
Jaz240's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dwindle city
Posts: 12,492
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Chassis flex would kill em quickly, unless you figured a way to have a spring somewhere along the driveline front and rear
__________________
nothing to see here................................
Jaz240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 08:45 PM   #9
Tech Elite
 
merdith6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brazoria, TX
Posts: 2,350
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default True

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin#2 View Post
O trust me those plastic slider drive shafts are crap dont get me wrong but you cant tell me u couldnt refine that design into something way better.
I've thought about it myself. I don't see why it couldn't be done, and last longer too, as long as it doesn't use set screws that can come out on the center outdrive area it would be awesome...

The current stuff wears out too fast and costs too much IMO...
__________________
Mad Dog drives a Mugen MBX-7, Novarossi engines, Clockwork Racing, Futaba radio, AKA/Proline Tires
merdith6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2012, 09:28 PM   #10
Tech Elite
 
RCmayor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 2,745
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to RCmayor
Default

Not if you run a Serpent. lol
RCmayor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 05:43 AM   #11
Tech Adept
 
Morpheus847's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 214
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

How about just remove the drive cups replace that with a splined shaft and put a slip yoke on the other end of the cvd/universal it would look just like the hub side of a 4wd joint just a little larger in diameter and splined on the inside. Same thing as the output on a auto tranny.
__________________
Tekno NB48.3, Werks B6, Byrons fuel
Mugen MBX6 tekno v4, Tekin RX8, Tekin T8 2650kv
TLR 22SCT 2.0 Brushless Hobbies 120a., Trinity DUO 10.5
SMC Batteries
Morpheus847 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 03:53 PM   #12
Tech Elite
 
madweazl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 2,578
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by merdith6 View Post
I've thought about it myself. I don't see why it couldn't be done, and last longer too, as long as it doesn't use set screws that can come out on the center outdrive area it would be awesome...

The current stuff wears out too fast and costs too much IMO...
Sliding shafts have been tried in fullsize racing for years and they just dont perform well. Simple is usually the best solution and for that, the CVA/CVD is tough to beat. Replacing a pin every month or so isnt what I'd call heavy maintenance; only takes a couple minutes and you're back in action.
__________________
RadioPost
Mugen MBX7r | CRE Picco 5TR/2120 | Hitec 7950/7940
Tekno NB48 | B6 Pro/2058 | Hitec 7950/7940
Kyosho RB6 | Viper VTX10r/Reedy Mach 3 9.5 | Hitec 7940
Schumacher SX3 Pro | Viper VTX10r/Reedy Mach 2 8.5 | Hitec 7940
madweazl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 04:14 PM   #13
Tech Prophet
 
houston's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: portland OR
Posts: 15,088
Trader Rating: 91 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
Sliding shafts have been tried in fullsize racing for years and they just dont perform well. Simple is usually the best solution and for that, the CVA/CVD is tough to beat. Replacing a pin every month or so isnt what I'd call heavy maintenance; only takes a couple minutes and you're back in action.
or the whole season on kyosho shafts

our designs are simple yet effective for a reason , you will figure it out '


there is always room for innovation though

it just has to be on the edge of inside/outside the box
__________________
TEAM FUSION X ENGINES / TEAM BYRON ORIGINALS / TEAM PROLINE RACING TIRES / TEAM SICK GRAPHICS /TEAM KYOSHO / things I support: COMP HEAT DEALER /TEAM LUNSFORD/ FUSIONX™ USA / TEAM KYOSHO / "H.E.S."™ / BYRON FUELS / RC-OMGUSA/KICWEBDESIGNZ/AKA TIRES/PROLINE RACING TIRES /RAYA RACING/BUKU POWER CLUTCH/M2CRACING/special thanks to STAV and JIM HOTTIGREENMOUNTAINGRILLS.COM
houston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 11:43 AM   #14
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,303
Default

how do you think these will hold up for 1/8th?

http://www.rcracer.co.nz/Forum/viewt...hp?f=12&t=3367
redbones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 12:07 PM   #15
am
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,603
Default

There are several reassons for why a normal car drivehsft couplung would not work very good for our use.

First is the extreame amaount of suspension travel. It is many many times of normal car.

Second, it would be alot more expensive, think what it would coast to change a driveshaft.

Third, it would be hell to wrench on our cars. You would need to find a secure way to attaceh the driveshaft to the diff, so it will not take anymore time than it does today.

forth, the friction in the CVD/CVA joint has some effekt to how the car is handling. With a normal cars driveshaft friction is alot less under power, and f. eks Losi is one of the cars that is loose on the rear end before the drivshafts wears in.
__________________
JConcepts
Kyosho MP9
KO PROPO
Top Elite distributor Norway
am is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone Frank McKinney Electric On-Road 19762 07-26-2017 10:42 PM
Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread SaladFork Electric Off-Road 46468 03-20-2017 08:56 PM
Mugen MBX6 teeforb Nitro Off-Road 18539 03-20-2016 02:59 PM
SERPENT MALAYSIA - News, Support & Discussion Centre xxafiquexx Malaysian R/C Racers 877 01-30-2014 07:36 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net