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Old 12-28-2011, 05:46 PM   #1
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Default Racer tip.....

For you guys that might be newbs or racers looking for another thing to check that's actually important, Check your end points before every drive n learn to do them right. Iv noticed on my losi over time my car changes n I get for slop n can tighten up my end point n my car feels great. I sometime check mid way threw a day.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:57 PM   #2
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For you guys that might be newbs or racers looking for another thing to check that's actually important, Check your end points before every drive n learn to do them right. Iv noticed on my losi over time my car changes n I get for slop n can tighten up my end point n my car feels great. I sometime check mid way threw a day.
good tip! since we are giving little helpful tips here, another good tip for over steer is to tighten up your radio wheel on your controller. also helps if you have twitchy servos.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:00 PM   #3
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i just smoked you in "alive". hows that for a tip. haha
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:02 PM   #4
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i just smoked you in "alive". hows that for a tip. haha
HUH
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:11 AM   #5
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HUH
It's n inside joke hey Alessi I bet j Alessi would kill u in that game, he just needs ur gamertag n it's all dungey for you!!
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:15 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Matt Piva View Post
For you guys that might be newbs or racers looking for another thing to check that's actually important, Check your end points before every drive n learn to do them right. Iv noticed on my losi over time my car changes n I get for slop n can tighten up my end point n my car feels great. I sometime check mid way threw a day.
Good tip, I was checking my end points yesterday and yes they had changed, alot of variables in linkages etc wearing which can change your end points.
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:22 AM   #7
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Good tip, I was checking my end points yesterday and yes they had changed, alot of variables in linkages etc wearing which can change your end points.
It's crazy how these things changed n can make a buggy not turn good at all. Then u play with set ups that throw u all off cause nothing fixes ur car turning 85%. Then u also save sweating ur a$$ off thinking a servo might blow, iv literally checked my end point to find one side so over cranked pushing on the servo saver, bet my blown servos in the past could b due to that. Just a good idea to check that one off the list b4 every drive, servos r too expensive.
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Old 12-30-2011, 01:57 AM   #8
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good tip! since we are giving little helpful tips here, another good tip for over steer is to tighten up your radio wheel on your controller. also helps if you have twitchy servos.
I don't see why that would, except if you're one of the guys that let their steering wheel lose to center it. If you do that the servo starts jittering around the middle. I don't understand how people drive like this.
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Old 12-30-2011, 04:43 AM   #9
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Well does somebody want to post a tutorial on how to set endpoints and setup linkages so servo's aren't making noise and clicking away when not being used?
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:42 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Mark _australia View Post
Well does somebody want to post a tutorial on how to set endpoints and setup linkages so servo's aren't making noise and clicking away when not being used?
Not an easy question, but i will try,
before starting anything be sure your gear mesh is perfect with the gearing you're running, moving the engine by 1 mm could cause problems...
make sure your throttle/brake servo horn is centered leave it on during the installation.
Once that's done:

-set up you brakes so there's no drag and minimal play, between the disk and pads, make sure your linkage isn't hitting your gas tank, trim the rods if they are too long.
(do all of this before even conecting your carb to the servo horn)

-once that's done unscrew your carb so it can rotate, and install the carb linkage.
trim the little spring if it's too long (on the mbx6 it's too long!!)
adjust the carb so there is no binding on the full movement, then you tighten everything.

set end points to the size of your restrictor and you should be good as long as nothing moves.

it's really trial and error at first, just be patient and repeat the process untill your brakes are free and there's no binding in the mechanism.

i personaly always use elastics on the car to make sure it closes shut once i let off the throttle.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:43 AM   #11
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I don't see why that would, except if you're one of the guys that let their steering wheel lose to center it. If you do that the servo starts jittering around the middle. I don't understand how people drive like this.
it helped me with the over steer, with the wheel real loose i had a habbit turning it to fast and to much, with it tighter it helped. my servos dont jitter around center, if they did they would be sent in to be repaired. i may have worded it wrong, instead of twitchy, touchy might be a better word.
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:24 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mark _australia View Post
Well does somebody want to post a tutorial on how to set endpoints and setup linkages so servo's aren't making noise and clicking away when not being used?
http://jq-products.com/the-advice/the60svideos

3rd one down is endpoints
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:25 AM   #13
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Well does somebody want to post a tutorial on how to set endpoints and setup linkages so servo's aren't making noise and clicking away when not being used?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gameholic2 View Post
Not an easy question, but i will try,
before starting anything be sure your gear mesh is perfect with the gearing you're running, moving the engine by 1 mm could cause problems...
make sure your throttle/brake servo horn is centered leave it on during the installation.
Once that's done:

-set up you brakes so there's no drag and minimal play, between the disk and pads, make sure your linkage isn't hitting your gas tank, trim the rods if they are too long.
(do all of this before even conecting your carb to the servo horn)

-once that's done unscrew your carb so it can rotate, and install the carb linkage.
trim the little spring if it's too long (on the mbx6 it's too long!!)
adjust the carb so there is no binding on the full movement, then you tighten everything.

set end points to the size of your restrictor and you should be good as long as nothing moves.

it's really trial and error at first, just be patient and repeat the process untill your brakes are free and there's no binding in the mechanism.

i personaly always use elastics on the car to make sure it closes shut once i let off the throttle.
My throttle servo is always a bit noisy because I want a little bit of pressure on my carb to make sure it closed all the way down. There's nothing more irritating than thinking that you have idle problem while it's just the carb that isn't fully closed. I also use a rubber bang on my throttle linkage to make sure it returns when there's a failure in the electronics.

And also make sure you have a 0.5mm gap between the servo horn and the adjust nut from on the throttle linkage. This assures you that the carb is always fully closed. As for the brakes, make sure they have a bit of play around the center to there not dragging. Then roll the car on the ground and brake while you're doing that. You'll know when the brakes are engaging.

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Originally Posted by inferno13 View Post
it helped me with the over steer, with the wheel real loose i had a habbit turning it to fast and to much, with it tighter it helped. my servos dont jitter around center, if they did they would be sent in to be repaired. i may have worded it wrong, instead of twitchy, touchy might be a better word.
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:42 AM   #14
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I have not seen a quiet servo. You have play with them and learn what sound means what. You can clearly hear a stressed out servo compare to normal use.
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Old 12-30-2011, 09:00 AM   #15
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My throttle servo is always humming because it is holding the carb closed. Just sitting at neutral it hums and has to push against the spring on the linkage. It's not going to hurt the servo. I even run a Losi and it don't kill throttle servos having it setup like that.
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