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Old 06-05-2012, 09:45 PM   #31
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Default Team Titan

Team titan do an awsome pin changing tool that never breaks and will also do 1/10 as well, you shouldnt have to pay for somthing that brakes after the first use. less than a miniute to change out a drive pin and ive done heaps of them, well done team titan!!!, sorry for being picky but please more testing should be done before inosent customers shell out hard earned cash!!
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:50 AM   #32
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Team titan do an awsome pin changing tool that never breaks and will also do 1/10 as well, you shouldnt have to pay for somthing that brakes after the first use. less than a miniute to change out a drive pin and ive done heaps of them, well done team titan!!!, sorry for being picky but please more testing should be done before inosent customers shell out hard earned cash!!
Uhhh, it doesn't break after first use. We have sold quite a few tools, and only a few replacement pins for the tool. Clients that bought them are quite happy.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:02 AM   #33
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I brought it a few months ago now.
And great to use and good quality product.......
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:14 AM   #34
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I've used the hammer and punch method for quite some time. That gets a bit rough when I don't have a good surface to hammer on at the track...

The Hudy tool is nice, but too expensive, and you still have to hammer the pin out.

This looks like a good tool that can be used with minimal effort...I may have to add this to my father's day "wish list".
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:23 AM   #35
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The tool works but the shaft (B0541D) used to press the worn pin out will break easily. I have broken 2. I use heat and still broke them. The replacement is only $10 so I would recommend having at least 1 on hand. I think the reason it breaks is the pins are worn on one side and when you screw in, the pressing pin doesn't meet up with the drive pin flush. When you screw down, the pressing pin rotates and falls of the edge of the worn pin and causes it to be in a bind and break, or it breaks from putting pressure only on one side of the pressing pin. You just have to be careful or change out your pins before they get too much wear. You can also cut the pins off flush with the drive shaft with a dremel then press it out so that you make good contact with both the pressing pin and worn drive pin.

Hope this makes sense...
Before I got this tool I used to break the pin free initially with a hammer on top of a small socket. Once you break it free it moves easier. I always waited as long as possible to replace my pins because it was a pain in the ass. As easy as the Mugen tool makes them to replace, less than a minute, I'm doing it more frequently which means I haven't had any problems with the pin slipping to the side. I also start off with the shaft with the hole in it to break it free. Then I switch to the one with the pin. About 15 seconds extra but I have not had any problems to date. Hope this helps. All in all, its been a great little tool. Worth the money imho.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:34 AM   #36
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Our inventory is live, yes we have only one left, as far as shipping prices, please look at post #24 above

We don't usually use the USPS because of many lost packages and poor tracking. If you want USPS still, select store pickup as an option, and we will ship it USPS for $5. We try to please
Order placed using your instructions. Thank you.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:40 AM   #37
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Order placed using your instructions. Thank you.

Thank you Greg, we will get it on its way to you
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:57 AM   #38
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soaking the drive shaft in wd40 or heating with a torch does wonders in the replacement process.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:32 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by mebolson View Post
Hammer + small punch =
Replaced a few and no issues.
The tool is cool though.
E


Hammer + Punch = Potential Shattered pin = No good.

I prefer Slow Steady pressure from a Chain breaker.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:47 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Maxxed-out View Post
The tool works but the shaft (B0541D) used to press the worn pin out will break easily. I have broken 2. I use heat and still broke them. The replacement is only $10 so I would recommend having at least 1 on hand. I think the reason it breaks is the pins are worn on one side and when you screw in, the pressing pin doesn't meet up with the drive pin flush. When you screw down, the pressing pin rotates and falls of the edge of the worn pin and causes it to be in a bind and break, or it breaks from putting pressure only on one side of the pressing pin. You just have to be careful or change out your pins before they get too much wear. You can also cut the pins off flush with the drive shaft with a dremel then press it out so that you make good contact with both the pressing pin and worn drive pin.

Hope this makes sense...
I had the same thing happen with mine, but also had a different problem with B0541B. The screw threads themselves cracked at the ends. I have sent my into mugen and they are supposed to see what went wrong.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:12 AM   #41
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I use a hammer, drift punch ,and a 1/2" alum plate with a hole drilled in it a little bigger then the pin ,place the shaft with the pin in the hole and hit with a hammer till its flush with the shaft,then use the drift punch and drive the pin thru ,leave the pin in the hole of the alum as this will be the stop for the new pin, start the new pin with a hammer and drive it in till it stops. takes less then a min to install a new pin !! pins are not very hard, so it will never shatter as someone has said . thats how I doit !! works ever time ..
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:45 AM   #42
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i just use a bike chain break tool. you need to file the pin so it is smaller than the pin it's pushing out. or like i did the tool becomes lodged inside and you will never get it out.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:35 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by rc racer 103 View Post
I use a hammer, drift punch ,and a 1/2" alum plate with a hole drilled in it a little bigger then the pin ,place the shaft with the pin in the hole and hit with a hammer till its flush with the shaft,then use the drift punch and drive the pin thru ,leave the pin in the hole of the alum as this will be the stop for the new pin, start the new pin with a hammer and drive it in till it stops. takes less then a min to install a new pin !! pins are not very hard, so it will never shatter as someone has said . thats how I doit !! works ever time ..

Tell that to the Chunk of Pin I had Flung into my Hand.......

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i just use a bike chain break tool. you need to file the pin so it is smaller than the pin it's pushing out. or like i did the tool becomes lodged inside and you will never get it out.
Most Chain breaker push pins are 2.9mm(well the size we use anyways) but over time they can "Stick" in the shaft.....What I do is Keep my Push pin Polished and Clean. Helps Tremendously.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:28 AM   #44
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[QUOTE=Integra;10839094]Tell that to the Chunk of Pin I had Flung into my Hand.......

If pins were that hard they would break instead of wear, they are far less then 62 rockwell hard , IMO ! Nick sometimes you just got to be smarter then the pin !! LOL
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Old 06-09-2012, 10:21 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by jnslprd View Post
soaking the drive shaft in wd40 or heating with a torch does wonders in the replacement process.
I've been using the 'torch method' so far but I must admit that it's not the best... I've replaced 6 pins and two of the dogbones cracked...

Are there any tools other than Mugen, Hudy and Titan? $50-100 is quite a lot if you ask me. I'm even thinking of making one by myself.
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