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Old 10-28-2011, 12:05 PM   #16
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read the post before mine. Hes looking for his engin taken apart. i have read over that manual already. Thanks though.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:10 PM   #17
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) : tried to fix my spring to my pull start. now the spring is all out LOL so now I need to see if i can find me a full pull start assembly for this thing cuz I dont see me being able to get it back in. or just rig up my own start. Maybe ill just stick my cordless drill on it to start it LOL
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Old 11-09-2011, 11:06 AM   #18
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Iv got alot of experience with XTM cars, I would change the engine to the XTM 247 engine. It provides 2.6bhp, much more than your current one. But if you'd prefer to keep that one then I would change the piston and liner, (Xtm engines are prone to rust) and put in a new one-way bearing in the pullstart, or get the XTM surestart.
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Old 11-09-2011, 11:12 AM   #19
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Iv got alot of experience with XTM cars, I would change the engine to the XTM 247 engine. It provides 2.6bhp, much more than your current one. But if you'd prefer to keep that one then I would change the piston and liner, (Xtm engines are prone to rust) and put in a new one-way bearing in the pullstart, or get the XTM surestart.
An XTM 247 is a big block, a XTM .15 is a small block. They are not compatible without lots and lots of work.
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Old 11-09-2011, 11:16 AM   #20
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Yeah. Im just trying to get this one running. Ive seen the piston and it has no rust on it. the inside of the engin looks pretty clean. Just need to get it running...Need to adjust the 2 settings just right so it runs good. I have had it to the point where it would start and run like 30 seconds then die out. And it would run like full throttle. IDK its just going to take some toying If I cant get this engin to work Im stick a brushless novak 550 5.5 system on it or something......The thing I can not figure out though is I took the front tires off. There is no pins to lock the tires It has the nuts that fit inside the rim where a small metal rod locks into to turn the tire with the axle. these axels dont even have a hole for a pin,
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Old 11-09-2011, 11:50 AM   #21
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did you check the clutch on it also? this could be another thing that needs replaced or just some attention.
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Old 11-09-2011, 12:02 PM   #22
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did you check the clutch on it also? this could be another thing that needs replaced or just some attention.
I am afraid of that. The clutch seems to be good though. the engin spins freely but once it gets going it spins the tires.....I just want to get the engin running after that then ill worry about the rest. I still need to install servos and receiver but not gunna do that till i know its running I may end up tearing the hole car apart and building a off road truck out of the drivetrain.
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Old 11-10-2011, 12:18 PM   #23
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OK so i got a little progress today. KINDA I got the engin to start and run for a little bit was able to work the throttle it seems like it will haul a$$ BUT cant keep it running. Then it got to the point where it would start run low rpm (adjusted the throttle and needle valve some) but as soon as I removed the glow plug starter the engin would die OR if I left it on and moved the throttle some the engin will die. Then I noticed LARGE bubbels coming out from under the cooler above the exhust....I had a issue before where the screw hole was stripped so I tapped a new hole and used a slightly larger screw IDK why there will be air leakage I removed the 2 thin copper washers and used some gasket maker I had left over from my 4 wheeler engin. So any advice here will be helpful Don't want to sink alot of money into this thing (new motor) ALSO when I had it running for a while and was playing with the throttle and it worked fine it was shooting ALOT of fuel out of the exhust.
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Old 11-10-2011, 03:47 PM   #24
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ALSO when I had it running for a while and was playing with the throttle and it worked fine it was shooting ALOT of fuel out of the exhust.
Definitely a strong sign that your low speed needle (LSN) is set waaaay too slobberingly rich. Lean out the low end, keeping in mind that you will likely need to adjust the idle screw too. You know you are in the right place when you have a snappy response from idle, with a puff of smoke from the exhaust and no bogging/hesitation. A couple other signs to look for:

1. When you give the throttle a pull and then let it go back to idle, the engine should idle smoothly for at least 10 seconds without the idle dropping lower. If it idles for a few seconds and then sounds like it's slowing down, that's a sign that you are still too rich on the LSN.

2. The pinch test.....you should be able to pinch the fuel tubing just before the carburetor nipple and the engine should rev up higher in about 3-5 seconds. If it immediately starts to rev up, you are too lean on the LSN. If it takes longer than 5 seconds, you are too rich.
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Old 11-10-2011, 03:50 PM   #25
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sounds like some healthy info ill have to keep in mind when trying to get this thing running right. ive done killed like 35% of my quart of fuel i bought just trying to get the engin running ) :


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Definitely a strong sign that your low speed needle (LSN) is set waaaay too slobberingly rich. Lean out the low end, keeping in mind that you will likely need to adjust the idle screw too. You know you are in the right place when you have a snappy response from idle, with a puff of smoke from the exhaust and no bogging/hesitation. A couple other signs to look for:

1. When you give the throttle a pull and then let it go back to idle, the engine should idle smoothly for at least 10 seconds without the idle dropping lower. If it idles for a few seconds and then sounds like it's slowing down, that's a sign that you are still too rich on the LSN.

2. The pinch test.....you should be able to pinch the fuel tubing just before the carburetor nipple and the engine should rev up higher in about 3-5 seconds. If it immediately starts to rev up, you are too lean on the LSN. If it takes longer than 5 seconds, you are too rich.
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