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Old 09-26-2011, 07:17 PM   #1
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Default RC10 GT... new to R/C's need help

I just recently acquired an old rc10 GT. rebuilt the engine and replaced a bunch of stuff on it. i have ran 6or 7 tanks through it now. i have been having a few issues with it. the first one is with the drive axles. i have had my axle shafts pop out a few times on me now. mostly at the outdrive side. it seems like my suspension droops too far and lets them come out. because of this i need to replace the outdrive on one side, the axle shaft came out too far and broke a chunk off the corner of the outdrive. but i am wondering if there is a way i can correct this issue without putting spacers inside the rear shocks limiting their travel. a few people have told me to do this. also, i think i have CVD style shafts. the outdrive side is a ball with the pin, the other side is the half cup out the wheel that the pin goes thru. that is considered the CVD shaft, Correct? is a "dog bone" a ball at each end with a pin thru it? i have also thrown shafts because the pin at the joint by the wheel keeps either breaking off or just simply falling out... any help??? sorry for being so long winded
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:09 AM   #2
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You are correct on the description of your cvd vs dogbone question.
If you have the old dogbones, put one of the orange shock o-rings between the drive cup and bone at each end. This will help prevent the bone from moving too far one way or the other.
If you already have the cvd's (which are better), then the shimming behind your wheel stop is likely incorrect.
Do you have a manual for the car? If so, proper shimming and orientation is explained in detail for this.
Hope this helped, good luck.
The RC10GT got me back into this hobby about 7 years ago...
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:00 AM   #3
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thanks. it did help clear some things up. i dont have a manual for the car though. i will look for some online. hopefully i can find some and download them. and just for the record i do have one equipped with CVD shafts. thanks again
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:30 AM   #4
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Rc10gt got me into rc for the second time and since then ive been in the hobby. Enjoy it. It keeps you out of trouble.

Here you go. You can check which manual you need and download it.

http://teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10GT/
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:53 PM   #5
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Thats cool, RC10 GTs seem to be liked by a lot of people. i know next to nothing about the history of r/cs but it seems like team associated is a big name and RC10 gts were a good model. i like mine so far. i got it for free also, has a bunch of goodies already on it. i just rebuilt it and am getting into the hobby. so far its fun. thanks for the input, i downloaded probably 10 different manuals and printed a few. time to do some tuning.
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4ftracer View Post
If you already have the cvd's (which are better), then the shimming behind your wheel stop is likely incorrect.
Do you have a manual for the car? If so, proper shimming and orientation is explained in detail for this.
I have my State Champion car hanging on my garage wall. It still has mud on it from 8 years ago when I raced it last. I loved that thing. It was also the car that got me back into R/C after about a 5 year break.

The shimming idea is most likly your issue. Stack shimms between the CVD and inner bearing on the rear hub. This will push the pin further into the out drive of the tranny.
Also check to make sure the screws that hold the rear arm carriers are tight. That was always a big issue I had when I raced. RPM made a good set that came with longer screws that you could put nuts on the end to keep them tight. Check to make sure the rear arms dont move front to rear when you push on them. If they move, they are either loose or cracked.
Good luck. Enjoy that car. I know I did.
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