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Old 09-13-2011, 08:20 PM   #16
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I best bet would utube nitro engine needles to Lear them. The top end needle is the needle facing up on carb with the goldfish crown on it and bottom end is on throttle slide of carb, idle gfnerally is on carbs center stick out just slightly. A tuning tip is tune by hits like a clock onecfull turn is 24 hours. All it takes is a hour to make a large difference. Also a way to check tune is light throttle to mid on trigger is bottom end and half to full is top end. Look for a nice light stream of smoke from start to stop, generally if h have this with no high hanging idle once u go from high rpm to stop and no bogging.
Ok, interesting...
I follow on everything.

One of those things that you just have to do and play with to learn huh.

Sounds like good stuff.
Im going to wait until I get the new break pads in before I put the Truggy back together and then ill give this a shot.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:43 PM   #17
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Ok, interesting...
I follow on everything.

One of those things that you just have to do and play with to learn huh.

Sounds like good stuff.
Im going to wait until I get the new break pads in before I put the Truggy back together and then ill give this a shot.
Yeah pretty much u learn as u go and soon enough u get to point where u can tune by sound with no need of temp guns etc. Thats what's hreat about his hobby. Never stop learning the vehicles and always finding ways to go faster and stay in controll. any questions us tech members are always quick to answer and there are threads like tuning bible and break in bible on engine thread section right above these threads. They go into detail on engine tune etc.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:50 PM   #18
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Yeah pretty much u learn as u go and soon enough u get to point where u can tune by sound with no need of temp guns etc. Thats what's hreat about his hobby. Never stop learning the vehicles and always finding ways to go faster and stay in controll. any questions us tech members are always quick to answer and there are threads like tuning bible and break in bible on engine thread section right above these threads. They go into detail on engine tune etc.
Ive been reading the tuning bible word for word since it was recommended. Ive learned more in the past 2 hours reading that than a few days worth of research on my own. GREAT STUFF!

Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:57 PM   #19
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Ive been reading the tuning bible word for word since it was recommended. Ive learned more in the past 2 hours reading that than a few days worth of research on my own. GREAT STUFF!

Thanks again for all the help!
No problem, feel free to message me and I will respond asap or ask around here. Best rc forum on the web no dought.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:04 PM   #20
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No problem, feel free to message me and I will respond asap or ask around here. Best rc forum on the web no dought.
Thanks! I really appreciate everything thus far.

Cant wait to really get into the hobby.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:07 PM   #21
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I do have another question.
What type of maintenance is required for the engine and suspension on a regular basis?

I see that there are tons of different lubricants and oils for them, but not sure what routine looks like.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:18 PM   #22
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I do have another question.
What type of maintenance is required for the engine and suspension on a regular basis?

I see that there are tons of different lubricants and oils for them, but not sure what routine looks like.
Engine Maitenence is verry important.
1.after you have finished running set your piston at bottom dead center of the stroke I mark my flywheel with a permanent marker so I know where it is easily.
This ensures your piston and sleeve cool back to their origional size and will give your motor alot more life.

2.After run oil Is a must also even if just storing for the week I disconnect my fuel line from the engine and also blow through the exaust line to expell all the fule from the lines.
then open the glowplug inlet and put a good 7-10 drops of after run oil into the engine..
the nitro fule if left in your lines and motor will create rust in the interals of te engine so its best on the lastrun of the day to run the engine dry and then do the ARO..

Im sur others will chime in with more info.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:24 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by PBLRDom View Post
I do have another question.
What type of maintenance is required for the engine and suspension on a regular basis?

I see that there are tons of different lubricants and oils for them, but not sure what routine looks like.
What trugsta said and also shock/diff maitnence is required after about 3/4 race days so about 2 hours of drive time or 3. If ran on street the shocks dont need it much foir a basher but diffs tend to loose oil quicker from costant heating and grabing its just prefrence on when to do so. I prefer sooner before later.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:47 PM   #24
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Engine Maitenence is verry important.
1.after you have finished running set your piston at bottom dead center of the stroke I mark my flywheel with a permanent marker so I know where it is easily.
This ensures your piston and sleeve cool back to their origional size and will give your motor alot more life.
This part I don't seem to understand. Any place I can watch a video or something to visually see what you're talking about?

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2.After run oil Is a must also even if just storing for the week I disconnect my fuel line from the engine and also blow through the exaust line to expell all the fule from the lines.
then open the glowplug inlet and put a good 7-10 drops of after run oil into the engine..
the nitro fule if left in your lines and motor will create rust in the interals of te engine so its best on the lastrun of the day to run the engine dry and then do the ARO..

Im sur others will chime in with more info.
Ok that sounds easy enough. Thanks
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:51 PM   #25
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Turn the flywheel on your engine til there is play from one way to another
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:51 PM   #26
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What trugsta said and also shock/diff maitnence is required after about 3/4 race days so about 2 hours of drive time or 3. If ran on street the shocks dont need it much foir a basher but diffs tend to loose oil quicker from costant heating and grabing its just prefrence on when to do so. I prefer sooner before later.
I see that there are tons of different shock oils. How do I know what one to use?
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:55 PM   #27
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Turn the flywheel on your engine til there is play from one way to another
gotcha
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:57 PM   #28
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I see that there are tons of different shock oils. How do I know what one to use?
really matters what you want to do with it. if you want to bash it use the stock oils, USUALLY thats pretty good just for bashing around but just start there. If you wanna race i would start with a racers set up, the only one listed on losi site is Kevin Gahan so i would start there.

to be 100% honest i would play around with the ten -t . Bash around with it, learn how to tune. Learn how to work around the car a little, build shocks,diffs, etc.

then go out and get a race car, which from how it sounds thats what you wanna do. FF and the pit will allow you to race your ten-t , they dont turn people away but you will be at a disadvantage running it against actual race cars. Imo your best bet is to learn then step up. you can even get a losi rtr which is the best package available in a rtr and that will get you going for a while



btw heres the link to the stock set up and kevin set up

http://losi.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0126
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:04 PM   #29
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really matters what you want to do with it. if you want to bash it use the stock oils, USUALLY thats pretty good just for bashing around but just start there. If you wanna race i would start with a racers set up, the only one listed on losi site is Kevin Gahan so i would start there.

to be 100% honest i would play around with the ten -t . Bash around with it, learn how to tune. Learn how to work around the car a little, build shocks,diffs, etc.

then go out and get a race car, which from how it sounds thats what you wanna do. FF and the pit will allow you to race your ten-t , they dont turn people away but you will be at a disadvantage running it against actual race cars. Imo your best bet is to learn then step up. you can even get a losi rtr which is the best package available in a rtr and that will get you going for a while



btw heres the link to the stock set up and kevin set up

http://losi.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0126
Thanks for the info! Looks like 30wt is the stock shock oil. Ill start there. Thanks a ton!

Yah i plan on just abusing the crap out of this guy and learning on it.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:06 PM   #30
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Here is a guy on YouTube that can help you with a lot of questions and you can actually see what he's doing so you know exactly how to do it. He is really helpful if you're someone who is just beginning. Hope you get it all figured out quick so you can get out and start racing. It's a great feeling and you'll meet a lot of great helpful people. If you have a Rc track anywhere close to most people will help you with any questions you have. The guys name is Squirrelod on YouTube. Just use that name to search for his channel on there.
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