ghost68

you can get them for $115 on ebay (people just buy rtr's and gut them for parts) so you could possibly get more but everyone here is lookin for a crazy deal... I have had my share of engines become spontaneously non-cooperative on race day when a backup (even if its a gas hog) is worth its weight in gold... I would give the 454 a chance before you dropped the cash on the OS... Its not a bad engine by any means, I won my first 5-10 races with one!

inferno6.1

Yep I could always break it in and keep it as a backup...I just remember how much top end power the vspec had...Thing would fly down the straights. For a .21 it felt like the power of a .28. My Revo with that motor would give my buddy's Losi truggy a run for his money. When I moved up to the XT8 with the .28xz I stomped on almost every truggy out there. I'm looking forward to getting back out there and drivin the truggy again with a new mill...I had it down to science flying that XT8 truggy...was very well balanced. I'm hoping the 8ight has a similar feel..

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

If its an RTR your wanting, here ya go, http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/tag/2525137521.html This guy is in my neck of the woods....

ghost68

I take it you have never seen a B5 walk an OS Speed down a long straightaway... Mine was insane especially when you consider that I was able to make 12 minute pit stops with it...

inferno6.1

Nope I've never seen that happen...Can you shed a little light on this B5 motor for me please...I'm only really familiar with OS engines...

This was my xt8...I miss that thing..

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

Ive walked them both with my 25 and I do better than 12mins

inferno6.1

Thanks man...I think I'm going to pick up this brand new losi 8ight at my local hobby shop...I called around today and found 2 in stock.

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with it man! However, if you do decide you want the one in the link I posted just let me know and I can go check it out in person for you... Also, you can pick up the flex chasis on E-bay for $40-$60 on a regular basis... As far as engines go, I wouldn't trade my Clocked O.S. 25xz for anything! You can expect 12mins +, mine hits it easily!

inferno6.1

Appreciate it! What do you think of JR servos? I always had good luck with them on my previous rigs..

ghost68

Werks B5 / 2058 tower always runs deals I got my combo for $275 with a $25 off of $300 coupon... You MUST get the pipe to match the ones that work best are the 2058 and 2013

Werks Racing has been around for quite a while and they are known for their super cheap (price not quality) Italian made mills. They are manufactured by LM, the same company that manufactures Serio and Orion.

There are a few pages on the engine here

Short answer the B5 is one of the most popular engines around right now...

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

Honestly I don't have any experience with any of the high end ones, but I didn't really have good luck with the lower to mid grade ones...I run the Hitec 7950 7940 combo and they have proven to be bullet proof this whole season! Not cheap by any means, but bullet proof! Plus, Hitec gives a 3yr warranty on them too, no questions asked!

inferno6.1

Looks like good power there too...Thanks for the links...under $300 for a stout motor/exhaust combo is really good.

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

For $299 you can get a Clocked B5 Which is my 2nd favorite engine! https://clockworkracingengines.com/c...ed-werks-b5-21

+ YouTube Video

1BLADE1

go with what "Ghost Says"
he races at our tracks,pretty much has picked up with running with us in the "Pro" class....
dont bother with Mod motors save your cash there pretty much a waste and i "Mod Motors" ask "Ghost" i prove a point by running "Stock Motors"
i say a waste, for what your trying to get to for now keep it "Simple"

we did a review of some 22 , .21 motors....the STOCK B5 is a Monster with either the 2013 or 58 series pipes....
the 454 is a Beast...!!! most with discount that motor but it does a Great job..!!! can even hammer most modded motors when "properly Tuned"....!! even better with the "Turbo-Conversion"
in some cases even at our HUGE track seen some of the 454's get
7:45.....!!!! sometimes 8 minutes.....
it does like to drink the Fuel bit Quicker than a "Average .21" the VZ series O.S. motors are no Slouch either.
a quick note, for swaping out motors you can put just about anything in there, and run any "Clutch" losi 4 shoe 3 shoe etc.

and at our track depending on layout with most motors..almost Unheard of to go 10+ minutes but stock B5's and Axial's and
Nova P5 series(P5XL,P5XLT,21-4,21-4BTTS etc.) seem to be able to.
most of the motors "We Have Seen" at OUR track pretty rare under "RACE Conditions" see anyone Pro or other wise go more than 10, usually see them pull 9:50....."Ghost" is one of the few we have "Seen" do a 11 minutes........
and i do see many in truggy at "OUR Track" pull maybe 9 minutes if lucky....but B5 owners usually pull about 9:50 to 10:15 pretty easy.....Ron over at WERKS did a great job on that motor to come out with a great motor for the Price that it is......
now "EVERY TRACK is Different" every driver is different.....
i have seen the same truck used by 2 different drivers have vastly different times....!!!! for example we timed (For our track)
2 different drivers, one went 8:46 minutes (3 times in a row)
one went 10:15 seconds 3 times in a row
from start to "Empty" so just do not go by "Engine alone"...
although you'll read many a post about someone saying
"Dude, i can do 30 minutes on a tank in my truggy"......
ok, thats great....??? but doesnt mean will be like that at "Your Track"
however the B5 is "Known" for it's Ability to be able to have Long run times.....as well as the P5 series Nova's......

as far as the truggy itself, i would "Advise" just get a new one....
it "WILL BE Less in the Long and Short term"....Bar none...
"Why" your really just buying someone elses "Headache" no matter how you cut it....?? with a new one you "Know what your getting"
and regardless of how well someone takes care of there car...??
there a "Mechanical Device" maybe everything is taken care of? but
what if any gven part is on the borderline of "Failure" you'll be left buying parts.....it's a 50/50 roll of the dice....
unless it's someone selling something New in the Box...you see a few from time to time....!!!
but for 575.00 better to get a kit...??? pricey? in some sence? but better..
or if you dont have any or little of your Equipment left...the RTR
has all the stuff Starter box etc. ,well you know as i am sure you been doing some "looking around"....

for the chassis, on a RTR when the track we have seen a few times when it gets really tore up we used the RTR chassis.....!!!
LOL........
99.999999999999999999999% of people you'll read make the RTR losi seem like it can't work as well unless you buy everything and get a chassis...."Nonsence"
get one and run it...you'll be spending more time wiping the drool from your face from the smiling you going to be doing....
6 billion people on the planet 6billion ways to "Advise" how a car best works........like all Manufactures Losi did there homework and it's a great out of the box.....when you start looking for that extra half second because you and the rest of the field are 3tenths of a second "Between one another" yes, start upgrading....

hop-ups in itself...??? not really needed....not for the Losi as well as other types most kits nowdays are pretty "Dialed" you'll spend more time getting "Mind-Zapped" thinking what do i need...???
the RTR is the "Same" as the race roller....minus a few items...
the Race chassis is more Durable,and the Towers are Stronger....
though some of us are running "Carbon Fiber Towers"
Durability wise you'll only need really , Shock caps...the rtr ones are Plastic.....towers run them untill one bends....
durability you do not need "Much" ,a Chassis when that time comes..
but if your at the point where your Lap times are Consistant for some 7 to 10 laps in a row...yes,then you'll notice a difference right off the batt how the truck will handle...till then, have fun first then other stuff after.....

"Tunning Wise" you do not need as much as well...
chassis at a later time, towers the V2 Tower will "Help" as it has a couple of different locations to move the shocks and Camber links to...and the Race Roller/Kit towers are "Stronger" as there as Ghost mentioned ,there not "Stamped" there Milled-Out...
and the 10-Degree front blocks for more Steering in mid corner.
(if really Needed?? every track is Different-as well as "Driver")
and the LRC rear blocks...mostly tunning wise you can "pop" out the Insert to change rear Toe-and Anti Squat settings and instead of say replacing a rear mount you just replace the little plastic Inserts when they "Wear out" (part# losa1759)
and shock shafts, the Ti-Nitrate ones are NOT so much as "Stonger"
but the Coating helps in there "Function" to do there job "Easier"
i have seen guys at our track run stock ones?
and run them them till the Piston wears out???....LOL
and the shafts look fine....but the Ti-Coating will help as well keep it from "Scratching as Easily as well".......much like a "Drill-Bit"

Oh, the biggest Mod i would get is the RGX Bottom Plate....!!!
will save that $115.00 chassis investment.....!!!!
covers the Entire Bottom...!! instead of a "Tiny" part like everyone elses......
here are some pics, shows a "Worn out one" and a new one i was putting on,can see the side view on a worn one on a 6-month old chassis...plate not there that would be the Chassis worn down....





again really little stuff here and there except the chassis the race one is a bit stronger and Hard Anodized, it's a good "Platform" i even have seen a few Losi guys run them Stock well except for there motors and stuff, and run the same lap as Adam Drake....just to "Prove a Point"....
granted some of these guys can run a "lunch-box" with wheels and still drive...!!!...LOL
but they show you can still be in the Winners Circles with a stock truck...

electronics....??? there is aTough one.....?????
now this could be a Debate even the U.S. Congress could go....
......."WTF"..........?????????????????

personaly i am Currently using "Hobby People" servos
(testing for a Review) and they are holding up "Great" i broke one last week but that was "My-Fault" all metal gear,..Fast..!!
222oz and only 49.00
i broke the "Top" of the case(a Fluke,it happens) the servo saver "locked up" and transfered that Energy directly to the servo,"ANY Servo" would have broke.....
(normally use the Savox 1283's and 1268's big events)


but have used Savox,Airtronics,ACE,JR,KO,Hitech and Associated....
all really good servos....JR, and KO insanley "Over-Priced"
but what i have "Seen So Far".......
Savox and the ACE servos....seem to hold up better...???
on "Average" doesnt mean other ones are any better or worse...???
for example...i have had one of my Hitech's last 4 years?
yet another one last one weekend...??? "
Everything can and Does Break".....just a mater or "When"......
except the Associated Servos......??? i see ALLOT of people go though those.....and yet others "Swear by them".....????
but the RTR servos,when you can upgrade those when you can....
there "Ok" but only have about 50 or 60 oz of Torque...and a Tad "Slow"......the throttle servo get something with at least 100oz of Torque you do not need that Much,but good to have....with something around .15 speed ......you really do not need something with mindbending Torque for the brakes.......

steering,anything with 200oz is more than enough...though you'll hear people say no way you need a 6000 ounce servo....!!!
with the advent of Li-Po's the Voltage they can produce will enable a 150oz. servo if you lock down the srevo saver start to bend and twist the connected parts.......so it is the "Holding Power" you'll need to settle on,what you can Afford......
Airtronics,Savox and JR's are good for these since some are used in Helicopters since most Heli's can generate "Masive" Inerta Torque from the Manuvers they do........"They Have To"
or a Tic-Toc Manuver be hard to do....
i am sure Ghost can also point a few other things out as well but there is some stuff i have noted at the tracks......'
i hope some of this can help a little.....

inferno6.1

Great stuff man! Thanks a lot Blade...I like your analysis of the race and RTR chassis, the electronics, and everything else. You're probably saving me a few bucks right now...I was thinking I HAD to go with JR servos but I'll probably try out Savox since I'm hearing good things about them. That chassis protector looks like a smart investment too!