kforcool

hello fellow rc enthusiast im in need of some advice with this wind hobby 1/10th scale buggy runs really well have to fine tune it more as it over heats rather quick i cut it of really quick when it dose to prevent engine damage but my question is. i start it up and it docent stay in neutral position upon some research on the internet i had found that it is due to the clutch shoe string. so i was about to order a replacement of the ebay seller which i bought from but i became rather hesitant on getting it as it was made out of fiber glass and it seemed to not last long on the out of box state as i smelled like burning plastic coming from that area so i kinda wont to get an aluminum one can u get one suitable for a wind hobby 1/10th scale buggy so that it will last a little longer?

regards keith marshall

xboxandrcdude

its called throw it in the bin and buy something that is decent. atleast hpi etc

kforcool

im not forking out 400 bucks on brand name at the momment when im new to nitro

kforcool

besides you didn't really answer my question i asked if you can put and aluminum clutch shoe in it so it will last a little longer got about 6 tanks full with the one it came with so not to bad and there only like 4 to 6 buck to replace so i noticed there was few people selling aluminum ones one ebay saying it is suitable for most .12 .18 nitro engines which i believe according to my manuel in is a .18 engine. i don't believe i asked should i through it out i had already done that with the cheep 1/5th scale nitro motorcycle that allot would consider better than the thunder tiger 1/5th nitro that i couldn't even start successfully this one at least starts so in my opinion it docent need to be through en out. i could just quite easily get one of the fiber glass clutch shoe and install it Im just asking weather i can put an aluminum one in.

Bus

iTrader: (4)

Id say if it feels good do it! sounds like your just bachyard bashing! If it says it will work give it a try for 4 bucks. It should last a little longer and give you more punch!

kforcool

cheers mate yeah just backyard bashing atm soon as i put in 20% nitro the clutch went figured the heat had worn out the clutch with the richer fuel content gonna go to hobby shop tomorrow see if i can get a suitable aluminum clutch shoe for it. i kinda got my eyes on a kyosho 1/8th off road nitro but wont to toy around with cheapies till i get the hung of nitro tuning ect couldn't think of anything worse than throwing away 350 to 500 on a brand name one simply cause i didn't know enough at least if this one dies it only 174 bucks out the door but the motor going fine just seems that the clutch shoe has died cause it wont stay in neutral position. so if i can get an a suitable aluminum might be longer lasting got about 6 tanks with the one it came with.

pickle311

iTrader: (31)

Have you pulled the clutch apart to verify that's the problem? It will do the same thing if you idle is too high.

kforcool

no i haven't pulled taken it apart i had figured that could of been another issue as it kinda sits on neutral at times and then it burst of may have to take it to hobby shop for them to check it out cause i know the needle valve on a video i saw said that the the most unscrew it is the slower the throttle and the closest it is to closed the fastest the throttle is this the same with the idle screw? i noticed before i changed it it had been quite a bit out than it seemed at the moment i have it on three full screw from closed position what would be recommend? probably wouldn't hurt getting a spare clutch shoe any way. if i cant figure it out Im just gonna get a hobby shop to look at it cause it dose seem a little soon to change the clutch shoe when i haven't really bashed it that much. it dose seem bit a little bit on the revving side at neutral when i start it up i kinda turn it of pretty quick to avoid engine damage.

sdtech58

iTrader: (30)

Things to check:

1.) Make sure your throttle linkage is set-up properly. It could be holding your carburetor partially open when you want idle.

2.) Probably replace everything on the clutch. Shoes, bearings and springs.

3.) Go back to factory needle settings. If you don't know what those are, then set your idle gap to 0.5mm. Then use the low-speed needle to adjust idle speed. Once you have these set properly, you shouldn't have to mess with them too much. High speed needle controls overall fuel/air mixture going into engine.

4.) Check for air leaks. Check fuel lines, where the carb mounts to the crankcase, the backplate and fuel tank for any signs of leaks.

Also, don't be afraid to get some better equipment. Alot of the RTR's on the market are great for first-time nitro guys, but you gotta get a decent brand. OFNA makes good RTR stuff for not much more than you paid for this buggy. Alot of guys got their start with OFNA stuff back in the day. I would hate to see you leave the hobby out of frustration because you have equipment that experienced guys would have a hard time with.

Hope this helps and feel free to PM me if you have any more questions.

RCaddict0

iTrader: (85)

Ican understand your not wanting to shell out BIG bucks on a HPI, AE, Traxxas, OFNA, etc., but from what I gathered its smarter to start with something decent. You'll have more troubles and issues with budget RC's. You'll have a harder time getting upgrades and replacement parts and being new..TECH support. Ive heard of many off-brand companies. Redcat or even exceed might have been better. Im on the computer searching R/C daily. Ive never heard of "Wind RC". But Im not nockin you for buying it or rippin on it. We all have to start somewhere! But I would look into something cheaper but by a known company.
Just my $.02

Chucksolo69

One thing that you need to ask the hobby shop people is if aluminum clutch shoes are even OK for your new nitro. Perhaps they installed the fiberglass ones for a reason. A lot of times with the cheaper nitro kits, materials can be sometimes petty soft and week. It is better to install original equipment than to risk destroying the entire clutch assembly and possibly the engine.

kforcool

thanks mate yeah it turned out to be that the idle was to high so i adjusted it and it stays in neutral now i might upgrade to an aluminum clutch shoe so its a little stronger. the throttle control horn came lose and its a little springy so may have to toy round with that to get it right the main thing is it still works.