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Old 06-28-2011, 08:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mark _australia View Post

(and if anyone knows why the link at the bottom about mixing oils to make different weights no longer works, or where the mixing article is, can you let me know please? )
That link hasn't worked in a long time, here´s another: http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/oil_mixer.html
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:11 AM   #17
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Dont over drive? Dont Be a hack??????

what kind of racer are you?! lol j/k

Slow is FAST!
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:37 AM   #18
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The original oil mixing link no longer works because it was purposely deleted. It was deleted because GE Silicones was purchased by a new Co called Momentive, I believe.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:39 PM   #19
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It is possible when your car bottoms out the piston will be further up in the shock body with the extended shock ends. On some cars that could tear your badder. If your piston is close to hitting the bladder with short shock ends it could hit with long shock ends. Lets say that the shock ends are 2mm longer and you keep the same ride height your pistons will be 2mm higher in the shock body than before so when you bottom out the piston will be 2mm higher.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:39 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by liquidsky View Post
Picture please

I can't figure out how to post a picture on this website!
The dialog box says "Upload of file failed"
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:43 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Tdiddy View Post
I can't figure out how to post a picture on this website!
The dialog box says "Upload of file failed"
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?

What file format are you attempting to upload? (Check extension after file name)

You could also use an online image host such as Imageshack, Photobucket, etc.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:44 PM   #22
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"DONT HIT THINGS OTHER THAN RACE LINES" By Trevor Williams is the best thing I've read/heard all day. lmao.

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Old 06-29-2011, 12:15 AM   #23
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Where to star, where to start?

Man there are so many tips, tricks, and mods to choose from these days and plenty of sourses to pull from. The choise is yours.

When in doubt, ask the local fast guys for help. Unless they are total D. bags, they'll usually give you good info on things like tires, inserts, setups, and things like that. Usually that kind of info seems to be what many are after and places such as this makes it hard to get good help sometimes.

Use a Sharpie on your rod ends to mark where the ball cup ends on the rod. Helps for a fast replacent of a broken ball cup track side and you should be pretty close to the length the rod was prior to the ball cup brake.

When running threaded shock bodies, index the threaded shock collar with a dremel or Xcato blade. Helps with setting the shocks equally by just counting the number of turns of the shock collar. Could also just use a set of calipers to measure them. Also gives a visual reference point to see if the shock collars stay in place or if they have been moved after a crash.

When running threaded shock collars, if there is enough room on the shock body, you can run two shock collars per shock. Reason is that it will allow you to "double nut" the collars, like what you would find on a rear shock of a dirt bike. The reason is to help ensude that the collar doesn't move in the event of a crash or being hit by another car/truck.

There's probably a million other things out there to try or learn from and everyone has "their" way of doing things.
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Old 06-29-2011, 04:28 AM   #24
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Default Tires!

I will talk tires here. Most ppl forget tires are the most important thing when it comes to hooking up on any track. It kills me when guys ask what time works then say yeah I got those, open there tire box and pull out a set of dirt caked treads.

I would like a fresh set every time I births track. But that would be costly. So after I use a tire I clean it with my tire scrubber in water then give em a simple green scrub down. This way they feel most consistent time and again. For storage I zip them up in a 1 gallon zip lock bags. They always come out fresh just like a new set.
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:35 AM   #25
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313,

Totally agree with that. Clean tires are happy tires.


Along those lines, when mounting up a new set of tires (unless i'm lazy and by premounts). Clean the bead of the tire and wheel with motor spray or alcohol. Gives a better bond. I use some eletrical tape to keep the tire bead seated in/on the wheel. I know there are the cool tire bands that people use and I have used thoes as well. The issues is after a while those bands tend to strech and not be as tight fitting like they were when new. The e tape allows me to set the bead as tight or loose as I want/need it to be and you can usually pick up a 5 or 10 pack for a few bucks at Harbor Freight or Home Depot.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:12 AM   #26
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Gonna steel one from a guy who helps me A LOT. Put your tires in a bag of WD40 overnight to soften the compound. Clean them real good before mounting, but if you need to soften up a set of mediums just soak in some WD40
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:17 PM   #27
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put a thin layer or any kind of greese on your exhaust and manifold gaskets. Makes a much better seal, a crapload easier to take on and off and they will last longer

reuse your manifold springs by cutting bending

vet wrap for the best air filter cover in the history of the universe (some dont like)

pick up a huddy set up book

goody's hair bands at wall mart for throttle return bands, works way better then gmk supply and there about a gazillion for a buck or two

water balloons for shock boots, stretch with air hose, pull and tug, clip the ends for a perfect shock boot for about 1/100th of the cost

brake cleaner for motor spray and anything that you would use nitro blast for

graphite powder and spray for cvd's, hinge pins, servo saver post ball joints, pillow balls etc. way cheap. Oddonnell lube is just as good but two or three times the price.

If you have a nintendo wii, the hand strap on the end of the nunchuck makes a excellent arm band for your radio

ebay will save you butt loads of money when buying parts

never tighten down "gromets" down to hard on servos and fuel tank.

You can shim just about ALL the play out in the servo saver, ankerman bushings.

greese your orings, ring gears, and outdrives

always debur your clutchshoes

go to auto zone and get a flywheel puller for like 5$ works just as good as a 50$ one.

Harbor freight has kick ass digital calipers for a fraction of the cost. Use can also get 8 inch long shaft instrument drivers for less then 5$ awesome for tuning.

dont count needle turns on your carburator or retune from factory settings everytime. this is bad.

lucky 7 engine sealent will last forever

if you are going to freeze a pipe to get dents out do not fill it all the way with water, check often

NEVER go the wrong way on a track if there is even one other car on it.

where gloves when marshaling

throw your temp gun in a lake

always balance your tires it makes a unbelievable difference

tune at the track, not at home

heat sheild your fuel tank and body

use piano wire for pipe hangers

never where sandles

always check your screws and buy your screws and hardware from TONY!

do not discharge your lipo's all the way

set your idle gap before you put the filter on

clean cooling head and check plugs often

video games can be great practice

buy a transponder they are expensive but well worth the money

use the right foams for the right tires, same goes for wheels

use ARO to clean head button, and top of piston if need be

Do not death grip the screws on your buggy

always cusion your reciever from shock

test your failsafes and endpoints regularly, if you switch engines you could be in BIG TROUBLE!!

Use a one piece mount

replace the pins in you bones yourself, chainbreaker works awesome, look on ebay for it. Less then 40$ and one of the best investments i have made

dental probes are underrated, so are deep sockets

keep a log of your adjustments at the track

body lexan for mud guards

i am not even going to get into clutchbell and diff shiming, just make sure it's right!

if you suck at driving and need some excercise, go to the track by yourself

mean people suck, dont be a douche

take care of your stuff and it will last

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Old 06-29-2011, 01:28 PM   #28
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Cant learn how to drive or tune or how setups will effect YOUR driving style from the internet.

Wrench on your stuff.

Learn to drive......... practice makes perfect.

Wrench Time is important.

Listen to the Pros..... They are Pros for a reason.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:42 PM   #29
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Car setup is important, but tires are everything. Spend the money on the right tires and right compound. I see guys buy medium compound tires and run em when it's 70 degrees out then chase a setup all day because their car is loose. Pick the tire, then adjust the setup accordingly.

Practice running clean laps, if you can't clear the triple everytime consistently, don't do it. Mains are won by the most consistent driver, not necessarily the fastest. Have some discipline, you are always faster on your wheels than on your lid with your nitro horn screaming.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:48 PM   #30
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If anyone is going to throw your exergen temp gun in the lake like they were told above. I will take them off your hands and pay the shipping.
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