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Old 11-08-2005, 04:52 PM   #1291
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I tried running O'donnel but wasn't happy with it... Get Tornado if you can afford it. I was running that this summer (cause of my onroad) and it is awesome but at $35US for 2.5L, I can't do it anymore.

The different is the amount of grip vs. wear...

Teflon has the least grip and longest life

Carbon is meium grip and life

Rudon has the most grip but also is the quickest to wear out
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Old 11-08-2005, 05:52 PM   #1292
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any of those clutch types wont require as much maintenace as an aluminum shoe would, right? what type do you recommend? also, how much is it to replace those clutch shoes?
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Old 11-08-2005, 07:05 PM   #1293
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I'm using the carbon ones and so far no problems with them wearing out (after 3 gallons of usage).

New shoes cost about 12US
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Old 11-09-2005, 12:31 AM   #1294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim

On looser surfaces vs high traction I find the clutch has much more effect then the pipe, The clutch is also a lot cheaper to tune with
how you tune the clutch on looser / high traction surface..
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Old 11-09-2005, 03:10 AM   #1295
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posted by WeatherB:
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I changed to a Werks Power Clutch and have it so that it engages when I only give it the car a bit of throttle...
Wow, I've been struggling with that clutch through 3 gallons of fuel! I could never get it to engage early enough. I was running 3 carbon shoes, it was engaging way to late and making my car squirrely as heck. Then I put 2 teflon shoes in and it had way too much slip, I went to one teflon shoe and still way to much slip. Finally I ditched the darn thing and put the stock parts in for the first time and I was instantly in heaven... my car never worked so good!

I haven't thrown away the Werks clutch (yet) so if you have any tips I'd love to hear them.

I asked about that clutch a few times in this thread when i first built my car but nobody replied back then.
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Old 11-09-2005, 03:37 AM   #1296
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I just installed it per the manual and used the medium spring. I tightened the nut till it was flush.
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Old 11-09-2005, 03:57 AM   #1297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Any good pipe will be fine, unless your trying to win the nationals? I have tried several pipe and clutch set ups, with none being the best on every track and each track requiring something different for top performance.

On looser surfaces vs high traction I find the clutch has much more effect then the pipe, especially if your on a budget, as long as your running one of the better pipes, 053, 086, 063, jp1, jp2, 2050, etc. The clutch is also a lot cheaper to tune with, .

...Jim
Hi Jim,

I understand that the Aluminium clutch is the most "explosive" or has the most bite than the white or black x1cr clutch.

Would this aluminium clutch be a good choice on a loose traction surface track or on a high traction track ?

Appreciate your response... Thanks in advance !
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:23 AM   #1298
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Clutch tuning can get a bit involved, so it takes some patience and some notes in your race notebook(everyone has one, right?).

Things you can tune are, spring tension, shoe weight, shoe material, flywheel weight, air gap and shoe shape.

The two most common methods are springs and shoe materials though.

I like to run .9 springs and white shoes(teflon) on low traction and 1.0 or 1.1 and black(carbon) on high bite(depending on the engine). I use aluminum and 1.0 only on medium traction tracks, but the aluminum means more maintenance, since the flash formed from wear can make them hang up.

The aluminum shoes have less slip and a firmer initial "hit", so they are best with engines that give a lot of bottom end on fairly smooth tracks. The white shoes give the least grip and offer some slip to help avoid breaking the tires loose as much and also are better in the rough, making the car feel easier to drive under power thru bumps.

You can also fine tune all these set ups by trimming material from the shoes for a later engagement. So if a 1.1 still engages too early and bogs your engine you can trim the shoes to lighten them.

Hope this helps, ....Jim
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:41 AM   #1299
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what do you think 2 carbon shoes and one red shoe would do? i think that i might wear unevenly though...
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:52 PM   #1300
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I have tried mixing compounds and springs, but it never felt right, maybe because it's tuff that way to tell which one is masking the other and if it's enough.

It seems simpler to just adjust with one set and I have always been able to get excellent results after a little trial and error, plus it is easily repeateable.......Jim
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Old 11-10-2005, 05:38 AM   #1301
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Thanks Jim !!! ...
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:34 PM   #1302
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Hey guys,
Any suggestions on how I can get more initial turn in? Right now when I turn into a corner the car push for a little bit and then grips. How can I increase the initial grip so it doesn't push?
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:33 AM   #1303
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put more aggressive tires up front and more worn down tires in the rear. works for me.
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:53 AM   #1304
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haha... I tried something little better yesterday at the track... I removed the front sway bar. The car suddently came to life, it was awesome.

The car would swing the rear end right around and in turns under power it would go nice.

And the RB is awesome too, very happy.
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:05 PM   #1305
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how did you adjust the sway bar? more or less bar on the end of the collar?
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