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Old 10-22-2005, 12:51 PM   #1201
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Who needs sidebite? It's 1/8th scale! Two things matter in 1/8th scale...punch, and steering.
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Old 10-22-2005, 01:18 PM   #1202
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LOL, I like durabilty and brakes too myself, so 4 things......haha, Jim
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Old 10-22-2005, 01:37 PM   #1203
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Brakes? Well...I guess you gotta get the front end down in the air sometimes...haha.

Durability doesn't seem to be too much of an issue with any of the latest and greatest cars..that's a good thing.
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Old 10-22-2005, 03:01 PM   #1204
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i like the quad brake setup. i prefer grabby brakes so that i can "drift" around the corners. just before i enter a turn, i grab full brakes to lose traction so that i can achieve a controlled drift around the corner.

i must say, durability sure is not much of an issue these days. back in the day, things broke so easily, even for 1/8s. now, with the quality of parts and materials, you have to buy less spare parts and get to enjoy the hobby much more.
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Old 10-22-2005, 03:18 PM   #1205
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I don't really use brakes. Sure...trying to outbrake someone into a corner every once in a while, but I just punch it to get the car to turn, haha!
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Old 10-22-2005, 07:32 PM   #1206
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See if I can summarise everything right. Please correct them if they are wrong;

To achieve more steering;

1) Move the rear hubs behind with 2 spacers to improve front tyres traction and less rear tyres traction.
-Coincidently this also increases wheelbase which will increase stability on the straights
-Just my opinion, I think short wheelbase gives tighter turns when running the car slow but increases risk of spin out at high speed turn)

2) Change shock oil to lower weight at front shocks as compared to the rear.

3) Change front shock to upright position and rear shock to upright position too.

3) Change to softer anti-roll bar at the front and stiffer anti-roll bar at the rear.

4) Change to high grip tyres on the front and low grip tyres at the rear.

5) Use steering holes furthest away from the axial.

6) Toe in at the rear and toe out at the front.

7) Lower ride height = lower CG

8) Front short chamber link (increases front traction) and long rear chamber link (less rear traction)

Last edited by turboburns; 10-22-2005 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 10-22-2005, 07:44 PM   #1207
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what's your question?? you've posted this several times!
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:42 PM   #1208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
what's your question?? you've posted this several times!
No questions.

If you have noticed, I have corrected and updated the list on ways to improve steering after each comment. Its for newbies like myself.
Thanks for everyone's feedback.
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Old 10-23-2005, 04:03 PM   #1209
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Turboburns, there is such a thing as too much steering, in fact only a few of those things on your list are needed to make a big improvement in steering.

When I ran the Jammin car9and every other in fact) moving the rear hubs back really freed the back of the car up alot.....Just try them one at a time.

....Jim
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Old 10-23-2005, 04:10 PM   #1210
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i still dont understand how moving the rear hubs back would give you more steering. you are lengthening the wheelbase, which shouldn't make the car turn harder. i think what you are getting at it that the rear end will lose traction and slide around the corner.
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Old 10-23-2005, 04:24 PM   #1211
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True, you get a looser car, which nets more steering, from moving the hubs back. You also get more stability in the rear, but only about 3/32(3mm?) of an inch worth or so.

Since the center of mass doesn't move, but the rear tires get moved farther away from it, you'll have less rear traction and more steering under power, with slightly less off power.

My lap times got slower when I moved the rear hubs on the two Florida tracks I tried it on. I tried it, since so many factory guys run that setting, but for me the added wheel spin and excess rotation(from the rear) hurt my lap times. Basically, since my car had good steering already, freeing up the back wasn't helpfull. But if someone is on a track that gives a push, it may be the way to go.

For example, the new version of the 777 (SP2) has the motor moved back to gain traction since they found they had overdone the "freeing" the car up design. This leaves the wheelbase where they want but improves the balance.

When I ran a Crono RS01, several years ago, I had custom engine mounts made to make the motor position adjustable...., Jim
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:17 PM   #1212
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can i adjust the steering links? move them fore or aft?
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Old 10-23-2005, 06:47 PM   #1213
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By moving the hubs back, you're basically moving weight forward.
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:37 PM   #1214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
By moving the hubs back, you're basically moving weight forward.
really big issue about weight transfer.. from what i understand here, so i think now its time to produce new car that have all the weight on the front.. engine position move forward to front a little bit, the heavy stuff(ex: reciever battery) place on the front position of the car, new design rear hub and rear arm that can move further to the back and new big/heavy tyre on the front and less heavy tyre on the rear.. so all the weight will be on the front position
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:42 PM   #1215
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LOL, your basically describing the SP1, but Kyosho has since went away from the aggressive design and gone to the SP2, which is closer to the 7.5 in feel but with slightly more steering.

The SP1 quickly gained a reputation as a twitchy hair trigger car, which helped MBX5 and XB8 sales, ......Obviously not the hot ticket for big K(explains SP2), Jim
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