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Old 10-18-2005, 08:37 AM   #1171
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how do you shorten the wheelbase?
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Old 10-18-2005, 08:51 AM   #1172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
how do you shorten the wheelbase?
Rear arm there are two plastic clips where you slot it on the hinge pin (wheel side)..To shorten the wheelbase, clip both furthest to the back and vice versa..
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Old 10-18-2005, 12:53 PM   #1173
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Default Rear 8x16 bearing

My 8x16 bearing in the rear tranny case where the drive shaft connects, completely failed. The little bit of the bearing that is left is cracked in half and chipped in several places. Anybody else have this problem, or maybe a reason for why this would happen. I've only raced the car 5 times. The inside bearing is damaged too, but still in one piece.
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Old 10-18-2005, 05:04 PM   #1174
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what upgrades do you guys have on your buggys? i was thinking of alum. wing stay posts, 5mm front and rear shock tower, and alum. b blocks. anything else i should consider?
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Old 10-18-2005, 05:11 PM   #1175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
what upgrades do you guys have on your buggys? i was thinking of alum. wing stay posts, 5mm front and rear shock tower, and alum. b blocks. anything else i should consider?
Longer shocks, aluminium wing post, aluminium centre diff post, single disc brake with metal pad, lightened chassis etc.. List goes on bro..Very expensive..
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Old 10-18-2005, 05:30 PM   #1176
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i've got the pro version, so i've got the lightened chassis and alum. center diff posts. how much longer are the upgrade shocks? do they really make a difference? metal brake pads, do you mean with no composite material on them?
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Old 10-18-2005, 07:12 PM   #1177
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The only option parts I'm going to get for my buggy are the new composite disk brakes and the screw type hinge pins. For me this bugges performance is totally satisfactory completely stock (besides the brakes).

From everything I've learned about tuning your wheelbase is that shortening the wheelbase is a good way to increase rear traction, not increase steering. Moving the rear hubs forward changes the weight distribution and shift move weight onto the rear wheels. Moving the rear hubs backwards takes weight off the rear wheels creating more steering. I know that Aaron Waldron runs his hubs with a few mm cut off the back to move the hubs even farther back than what the stock parts allow when racing on tight tracks.
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Old 10-18-2005, 08:18 PM   #1178
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Quote:
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longer arm will make a car wider and shorter arm will make it narrower.. whats the advantage / disadvantage of this situation
any body knows..!!
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:01 PM   #1179
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A short wheelbase makes the car feel very nimble and good in tight turns.. Good setting for small and tight tracks, without big jumps or bumps..Probably it is due to the increased in rear traction that Wheelnut mentioned..The longer shocks are longer by a bit.. I compared them with stock shocks but didn't measure them..Not sure whether there will be a big difference between the two cos i have not fully utilised them..The single brake disc that i was talking about come with a metal brake pad.. Those found in real cars.. Hence, the pads have minimal semi-circle wear and don't create havoc with your linkage settings..
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:22 AM   #1180
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actually, real cars have composite material brake shoes, not metal on metal.
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Old 10-19-2005, 11:14 AM   #1181
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Wheelnut

I'm not so sure concerning your theory about wheelbase

shortening the wheelbase definetely gives more steering and sensibily more
front gets more snappy and hugs the cords in the corners
it's like putting less caster on the car

longer wheelbase gives more stability, like putting more caster on the front or puttting a smaller gauge antirollbar to the rear
it's obvious with the wheels further apart, the rear gets more stable and grippy and steering less convincing..
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Old 10-19-2005, 11:42 AM   #1182
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Default Wheelbase

Quote:
I'm not so sure concerning your theory about wheelbase

shortening the wheelbase definetely gives more steering and sensibily more
front gets more snappy and hugs the cords in the corners
it's like putting less caster on the car

longer wheelbase gives more stability, like putting more caster on the front or puttting a smaller gauge antirollbar to the rear
it's obvious with the wheels further apart, the rear gets more stable and grippy and steering less convincing..
This the way I know it as well.
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Old 10-19-2005, 11:55 AM   #1183
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Think of a motorcycle. If you put a longer swingarm on it (like moving the hubs back) the bike will be less likely to wheelie, because you're putting more weight over the front end. That's why hill-climb bikes have a super long swingarm on them..to keep the front end down.

Consequently, if you put a shorter swing arm on (like some quad racers will do on TT-style tracks) that's like moving the hubs forward. You're putting more weight over the rear end without moving anything around on the car.

More weight equals more traction.

Now it is true that the farther the tires are from the polar moment of inertia, the slower the car will rotate. If you were to make the car 6 inches longer and 6 inches wider, it would turn VERY considerably less than it does now.
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Old 10-19-2005, 06:19 PM   #1184
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Macnkitty, perhaps you're right.. All i know is, the new brake pad is a must have.. You can set it very close to the brake disc and hence the brake cam need not rotate so much causing it to get stuck.. And unlike the paper pad, it has minimal wear..

Aaron, with regards to the wheelbase for tight and bumpy track, which is better? Shorter wheelbase gives you more rear traction and less front steering while longer gives you more front traction and steering but less rear traction.. Sigh, i'm confused now..Will it work if i use shorter wheelbase(gives me rear traction) and upright front shock position (active steering)? And what anti-roll bar should i use for both front and rear?

Last edited by uwadockers; 10-19-2005 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 10-19-2005, 06:46 PM   #1185
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i noticed that the brakes get stuck too, it's annoying.
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