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Old 10-12-2005, 08:18 PM   #1141
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Tune the high speed needle first, and once that is in the right range start tuning the low end.
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:17 AM   #1142
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thanks. i leaned out the high speed needle so that it reaches about 212f. i only have about 2-3 more tanks to go. they say to tune the engine to 90% power, so i think i'll make it even leaner, so that it reaches about 225f.
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Old 10-13-2005, 07:54 PM   #1143
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does x1cr pro kit and rtr steering knuckle is made from different quality of alluminium
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Old 10-13-2005, 08:33 PM   #1144
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From the OFNA website:

RTR knuckle:
http://www.ofna.com/teamjammin/image...nuckle-big.jpg

Pro knuckle
http://www.ofna.com/teamjammin/image...nuckle-big.jpg

Yeah I'd say there is a "little" difference
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Old 10-13-2005, 08:47 PM   #1145
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the colour and finishing is totally different.. but the quality of alluminium..??? i know the pro kit have T7075 hard coated but what about the rtr..?? is it also 7075 or 6061..??? is it hardened, hard coated or hard anodized..???

how are your .21 sts dragon engine performance..?? bottom..?? top..?? do it last long..??
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Old 10-13-2005, 11:05 PM   #1146
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The RTR has a cast aluminum knuckle, I couldnt tell you what kind of aluminum it is, but it is definately not nearly as strong as the machined 7075 ones included in the pro kit.
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Old 10-14-2005, 05:02 AM   #1147
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the rtr knuckles are indeed cast, which makes them more brittle. the pro's are hard coated machined aluminum, machined from a solid block.
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:40 AM   #1148
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well for those of you who don't read the S-grid it was just reported that Chad Bradly left Mugen and will run for Jammin. Very good news for Jammin
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:38 PM   #1149
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well, i ran my buggy off-road for the first time today. it ran perfectly, and absolutely carves into the corners. however, when i go off the jump, the rear end kicks up pretty bad. i think my oil is too thin, 25 up front and 40 in the rear. i think the rear end was slapping the jump and kicking it into the air. i'll try by raising the ride height a bit, and going to 40 up front and 60 in the rear. anything you all can recommend?
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:56 PM   #1150
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you have the oils backwards. You are having problems with the rear on jumps becuse of the shock oils. also if you are going nose down after the jump hold the throttle in the air and that should bring the nose up. I always would run 40w up front and 30 or 35 in the rear. Try that you will see a huge difference.
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Old 10-16-2005, 05:01 PM   #1151
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also, do you think that the stock clutch springs on the pro kit are a little too weak? i am thinking of getting some firmer clutch springs.
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Old 10-16-2005, 05:17 PM   #1152
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I thought that the stock spring were a bit on the weak side, but instead of changing them I just lightened up the shoes a bit to raise the engagement point, which is alot easier since you dont have to take the stupid clutch apart. As for shock oil I really like 40 front and 27.5 rear with the stock pistons.

Anybody have a part number for the new brake disks? These stock brakes are terrible, so grabby. Until I get the new brakes though I'll try playing with the linkage some, mabye use springs instead of fuel tubing.
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Old 10-16-2005, 05:25 PM   #1153
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should i stay with the stock suspension springs? or softer in the rear?
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Old 10-16-2005, 06:00 PM   #1154
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Stick with the stock springs they seem to work very well everywhere.
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Old 10-17-2005, 05:51 AM   #1155
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Chad is joining OFNA soon.

Looks like the statement " so close and yet so far " gonna end soon.
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