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Old 10-02-2005, 04:01 PM   #1096
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Quote:
Try 54's with 40/27.5....I think you'll like the car with more pack.
ya, but i only have one very small jump on the entire track. i think a thicker oil will be better. what does the kit come with anyway?
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Old 10-03-2005, 12:19 AM   #1097
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The kit comes with 30wt for the front and rear.
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:36 AM   #1098
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macnkitty - What you're describing as your track is exactly when thinner oil and smaller pistons (more pack) would be better. More corner speed, more direct handling, the car will feel less "lazy", and it'll soak up that one jump, as well as any bumps, better.
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:06 AM   #1099
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all right, i guess i'll give it a try. what did you say, 40 in the front, 27.5 in the rear? and 5/7/2 for the diffs? i think that's right.
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:07 AM   #1100
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i was actually racing yesterday at that track with my hyper 7, and half way through the race, my clutches went! they were composite. i'm glad the x1-cr comes with aluminum ones!
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:11 AM   #1101
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Default Some help

Hi everybody
I have been runing 200mm since 2000.
Now I will buy a jammin 1/8 buggy.
Can you help me with it?
I need something like hudy set up guide, but for buggy.
You know,
How work the diff?
What is the best basic sep up?
Etc
Thanks in avance
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:14 PM   #1102
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read through the last few pages of this thread. everybody has been helping me with the same questions.
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:16 PM   #1103
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Towards the top of this page, there's a setup that should work well as a starting point. The car works really well..the diffs are good, really good.

Setup is not as critical in off-road as it is in touring car. Setup boards aren't really necessary..you just need to find a setup that you are comfortable with driving with the least mistakes, and stick with it.
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:46 PM   #1104
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hi guys,
I just recently got a Jammin' X1CR that already been built.
I was gonna put in the engine and electronics but notice the diff is leaking fluid everywhere, especially the center diff and the front diff.
Should I rebuild the diff before running? And when rebuilding the diff what steps should I follow to prevent this leaking occur again?
Thanks in advance for all the helps.
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:17 PM   #1105
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i hope my diffs dont start to leak. i just got my kit yesterday. the hardest part so far has been building the diffs. i made sure to install the paper gasket included. by the way, what is the set screw for that is on the side of the diff case? is that so you can take out the set screw and drain the fluid, refil with new? i don't understand why it is there. also, i see that the kit comes with plastic chassis braces. why? obviously i used the CNC ones, but why are they included? also, why are the plastic bushing required in the directions for building the steering bellcrank, but they include metal ball bearings also? just a few questions of mine.
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:47 PM   #1106
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yeah...the fluid is leaking around the set screws on mine so I am stumped. I have not idea what the plastic chassis braces is for neither. Mine has already been build so now I am scared to rebuild the diff. Maybe I should just run it with the all the leakings so I at least got a feel of how it run
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Old 10-05-2005, 07:45 PM   #1107
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I also had leaking front and centre diff after building the car. I think it is from overfilling the diff oil which is then trapped on the edges. So on gentle spinning of the diff, it dislodges these extra oil. I had it so bad that the oil actually coated my spur gear After wiping off the leaked fluid and rotating the diff, there was no more oil leaking.
As for the front/rear diff, it had oil around the edges of the gearbox casing. I think it is the same problem.

Another problem; the screws at the bottom chassis, even after I tightened hard (without thread lock in some screws as advised) during the assembly process, a few had gotten loose. One even dropped off from the z-brace. I think you should tighten the screws again when the chassis is heated up by the engine.

As for some of the extra plastic parts eg chassis braces, they are included becos' they are used for the RTR versions. For the Pro version, they just added in the Optional parts in separate bags and they also included RTR parts.
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:40 PM   #1108
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The only reason that set screw plug is on the diff is so you can get the pin out of the outdrive to remove it. Aside from that I dont think it serves any purpose.
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:20 AM   #1109
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using the plastic chassis braces
could give a more forgiving car on a very bumpy track or in the beginning
due to more possible chassis flex
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:07 AM   #1110
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cool, thanks guys...I am gonna just wipe fluid off, yes mine also has it around the spur gear , and drive...YAY...
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