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Old 05-27-2005, 06:40 PM   #736
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Supra, for my break in, I run the engine only slightly richer then normal for one tank. Which means a temp about 180-200 max. After one full tank of fuel I start tuning the engine for WOT in an area where it can be opened up for a second or two at a time, but not more then 2 seconds. Check temps frequently and tune the high needle for good rpm. In other words, not bogging at WOT, but not screaming like a weed wacker gone nuts either. Keep temps under 230 preferably. In all honesty, if you are reasonable with the high needle adjustments and err towards the "bogging" side, within a 1/4 turn to were the engine just starts sounding nice, you won't even need a temp gun...........The problem is most won't leave the carb in this range and want the engine to "scream like a banshee", which is the expensive route.

One this is set in the "ballpark", you can run the car a few more tanks(4-5), without allowing it to run at high speed for more then 2 or 3 seconds at a time. You'll also be able to start tuning the low needle and idle speed as needed at this point. After clearing the engine out on the bench with some good throttle blips, pinch off the fuel line near the carb, the engine should run ok for a second or two, then begin to speed up abruptly and begin to stall. This means your low end is also in the "ballpark". If the engine runs a while with the fuel line pinched off before it speeds up, the low needle is to rich, so it needs adjustment clockwise(leaner)a couple clicks(each "click" is an hour on a clock). If the engine speeds momentarily and stalls immediately, the low needle is too lean, turn it counter clockwise. After 5 or 6 tanks and some of these tweaks, your ready to race. Keep in mind, the less you lean on the engine, the longer it will live. Too much heat evaporates the lubrication.

The instructions may revue this as well, but I thought it may help explained this way, since it helped me when I was told this way years ago(lets not get into how old I am)LOL.......Jim
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:09 PM   #737
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Thanks for the quick response. I will give it a go tomorrow.
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Old 05-27-2005, 09:53 PM   #738
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Default Engine break-in

Hi there,

Just to share some thoughts....

Normally a new engine needle settings should be able to allow you to at least start the engine. Normally, i would let it idle for about 1 tank. After that i would drive it around with careful slow triggering of the throttle during acceleration. At this point, when you reach full throttle, the engine would still feel heavy and bogging, but not extremely bogging. Would be doing this for at least 4 tanks. From here you can start leaning the engine top end 1/8 turn at a time... Just a point to note, normally the idle screw opening of the carbeureter should be around 0.5 to 1 mm...

Good luck !

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Old 05-30-2005, 08:25 AM   #739
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Default some new parts for the Jammin

check out some new parts coming out from Hong Nor. I like the 5mm towers with the option of more mounting holes.
http://www.neo-buggy.net/Index-under.htm
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Old 05-30-2005, 11:25 AM   #740
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i raced my Jammin saturday night at the local track and took 3rd in expert. I only drove this car one night prior to racing it. I have to say that I do like the car overall and saturday it proved itself against some good drivers. I drilled out the rear shock pistons because it felt a little stiff. I should have drilled the front as well because that was also too stiff, causing me to bounce all over the track. With a little more setup and tuning, im sure i will be much faster
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:33 PM   #741
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I was wishing for a thicker set of shock towers. I have bent/broke 2 front tower already! Hurry up and release the thicker 5mm please!!!
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:42 PM   #742
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Default shock towers

do you have the RTR? the pro towers I have never bent and I have two Jammins, been running it for five months. The new stuff does look nice though. That chassis is milled out all over.
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:51 PM   #743
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I've beat on my X1 Pro pretty hard, my front tower is tweaked, but still usable...that is until I can grab a 5mm, ..............Jim
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Old 05-30-2005, 08:30 PM   #744
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Ya I have the Pro version.... Just seams as if the front towers are a bit weak.
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Old 05-31-2005, 03:32 PM   #745
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I snapped a front tower 2 weeks ago. Didn't seem to take an especially hard hit. I'll be looking for those 5mm units as well.

Last weekend I took 2nd in the first heat 1st in the second heat and 1st in the A Main in the expert class with a basically stock, out of the box setup, except for 35wt in the front shocks, 27.5 in the rear, soft rear white springs from a Mayhem and the rear upper camber links set to the inside lower hole on the uprights. Oh, and I used the lightest sway bars. I love this buggy!
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Old 06-03-2005, 11:40 AM   #746
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Can some one help me with a noob question?
On road racer going to try 1/8th with a Jammin... finished the car and I was gluing on the tires when I noticed there doesn't seem to be any way to vent the tire.... on onroad there were always holes in the rims for this purpose... is there something I need to do to vent these before I run them?
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Old 06-03-2005, 01:48 PM   #747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoman
Can some one help me with a noob question?
On road racer going to try 1/8th with a Jammin... finished the car and I was gluing on the tires when I noticed there doesn't seem to be any way to vent the tire.... on onroad there were always holes in the rims for this purpose... is there something I need to do to vent these before I run them?
You need to drill holes in the rims. Very few rims come with holes. If you uuse Treadz tires, you are in luck as those tires come with holes in the tires.
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Old 06-03-2005, 01:54 PM   #748
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What's with the outrageous price on the Special Brake upgrade #36659? I ordered them from Nitrohouse.com and what I got was 2 plates with pads for a whooping 25.56 (list 31.95 on the package). This isn't enough to do even a dual brake system (1 front, 1 rear). To down grade to a dual brake system from the stock quad brake system and have to pay $52 to boot just ain't right! No brakes are worth that kind of money.
Some here have said these brakes are very good but I just can't believe you guys paid $52 for 4 brake pads. Did you?
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Old 06-03-2005, 04:08 PM   #749
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The new brake disk upgrade is supposed to replace the 4 metal disks with 2 fiber disks, and all you are supposed to do for pads is remove the existing pads and just use the metal pads, kinda like a 1/10 truck. This came from Jay Halsey at RCX. I will ask Adam Drake tomorrow if he is at the track and clarify things.
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Old 06-03-2005, 04:54 PM   #750
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You are talkin about craddocks right,I use them and they don't fade or wear.You don't need all four,just use 2 on the rear and 1 up front.This will help your servo last longer also.
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