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Old 05-18-2005, 06:29 PM   #721
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anyone ever custom made the brake pad.. someone told can use oil proof real car gasket paper
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Old 05-21-2005, 07:45 AM   #722
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do you have to use the special torsen diffs to be good racing ???
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Old 05-21-2005, 08:31 AM   #723
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arghh, You could try other materials, but it won't be cheaper, if you value your time. Since you would need to buy the "gasket material" in a much larger quantity then needed, as well as fabricate the pads...then hope it works well in the material you bought. The stock parts seem very good, imo.

speedy2, no, torsens are very good on high bite for more positive drive and more exit traction under power. On rough tracks they seem to take away a little stability and are also loose on lower traction tracks. So they aren't "required" for any tracks, but may be faster on some tracks. I haven't found Very Big improvements though, even on tracks where they would seem to make a bigger difference.....only small reductions in lap times.

This is with other cars, I haven't tried torsens on the X1..yet....Jim
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Old 05-21-2005, 12:12 PM   #724
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what don't you all like on your jammin x1cr's ??????
this will tell me everything I want to know....
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Old 05-22-2005, 09:23 PM   #725
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spoke with the man himself today at RCX, said in a few weeks they will be releasing a brake upgrade for the X1 that ditches the 4 disks, and goes to 2 fiber disks. Just thought i would share the info
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:18 AM   #726
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I ran my jammin for the first time yesterday and it was actually my first time running any 1/8 scale. The car worked pretty awesome, I just have to get used to running 1/8 scale. My setup seemed a little off though, Can someone hook me up with a good setup for a big, bumpy track. The dirt is a mix of hard packed, and loam, but no blue grooving. Traction is good with crimefighters and even the kit tires worked. Any help would be great.
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:48 AM   #727
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Speedy2, they had issues with the tank and motor moutns, but have since improved those parts, so all the new kits are good. The Ofna clutch bell seems to always be just short of being the correct length, requiring spacing to avoid bound up bearings after tightening.....The only other thing I experienced any trouble with are the brake cams and the engine positioning being very close to the rear most brake rotor(user error?). I repaired the rbakes with some dremel work, which made them smooth as butta........

The X1 is a good car for the money, in fact i'd say it is easily the best equipped car for "about" $500!

But of course, it is an 1/8th scale buggy, 4 shocks, 3 diffs, 4 tires, independent suspension, 7.5 lbs, etc., etc............there is only so much that can be done differently in this class. So it's more about parts availability, durability and price.....Jim
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Old 05-23-2005, 11:21 AM   #728
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speedy..

Jim's got it right. The latest kits have the new motor mounts, tanks, and steering & center diff posts (the original posts were breaking). I have a couple of the first kits from November and the car holds up well. If you're ripping the bladders in the shocks there are a couple of things to do:
- make sure that the shock rod end is FULLY threaded in
- grind a little material off of the top of the shaft so it's flush with the nut
- round the edges of the top of the body where the threads are, they seem to be a little sharp and can cut the bladder as the cap is tightened down

The only other issue I had was with the front bulkhead. The rear screws through the chassis seem to hit the pivot block screws that install from the back of the bulkhead. This has caused a couple of cracked bulkheads as well as the chassis screws stripping out (because the threads are turning against the other screws' threads). I just removed .10" off the end of the pivot block screws and all is good.

I'm new to 1/8th (20 years of electric though...) and have beat the crap out of this car. I have broken other parts (bumpers, rear hubs and servo saver bellcranks...) but those were all due to the "rookie" driver .

Check out the building tips here .
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:03 AM   #729
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Anyone try the aluminum center diff supports?
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:48 AM   #730
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Default Buggy tyres ???

Hi Dear Buggy Racers,

I've come across some threads about a week or 2 back from somewhere, someone giving tips (shortcut to a website) on buggy tyres on what the different thread patterns means and to be used best on what conditions...

Have somehow failed to find that posting/thread... somewhere in this RC tech!

Appreciate if you could help me out on which website provide detail descriptions on buggy tyres again...

Thanks a million in advance...
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Old 05-24-2005, 08:16 AM   #731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Mika
Hi Dear Buggy Racers,

I've come across some threads about a week or 2 back from somewhere, someone giving tips (shortcut to a website) on buggy tyres on what the different thread patterns means and to be used best on what conditions...

Have somehow failed to find that posting/thread... somewhere in this RC tech!

Appreciate if you could help me out on which website provide detail descriptions on buggy tyres again...

Thanks a million in advance...
Try amainhobbies.com. They have descriptions of each tire they offer for sale and where it is best used.
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Old 05-24-2005, 03:07 PM   #732
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Hey Jim,

Where can you get a Mega 7 engine?
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:22 PM   #733
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slrguy, contact Maxy at Maxy fuels dot com, or do a google search, they are easy to find. The motor is insane, I have gone down to the smallest restrictor at 7mm, haha.......about 8 minutes a tank!.......awesome, Jim
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Old 05-27-2005, 02:31 AM   #734
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is there any way can make the chassis more stronger and harder. seem that the standard 7075 T-6 pro kit chassis asspecially the rear end is easy thinner and thinner
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:19 PM   #735
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Default Breaking in the Force .26

Hi! I just ventured into the world of 1/8 buggy. And I went with the Jammin X1 RTR kit. I am reading through the engine break in instruction and I am not quite clear about a few things. The default HEN preset at 2 1/2 turns from closed. Is that right? No mentioned of what the starting setting should be during the engine break in. In the instruction, it only states that "Master Needle Valve set at 3 to 3 1/2 turns from closed. Adjust this needle for max RPM." The instruction also didn't mention how many more tanks of fuel are needed after the 1st tank breaking in at ideal. I am assuming 5 more to run the buggy at various speed should be good? Really looking forward to run this awesome buggy.

Thanks.
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