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Old 05-16-2005, 05:52 PM   #706
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Now that my car has a "few" races on it, the shock oil set up I had been running seemed to feel too light, so I went up to 40 front and 35 rear and it feels "just right" again. Made a big improvement on the track too, which was high bite and seemed to make the car roll alot. I went to the outer arm holes with the shocks and removed some droop along with the heavier oil and whala! Car was awesome!

Now if I can find a way to hide the bullseye on my rear wings underside?....I can't seem to find it, but I know there must be one on there somewhere? Either that or 6 drivers in the main decided there is no need to race it out, when a simple punch of the rear wing area will do?............Still got back up to 3rd(10 minute B) before a pit issue flamed me out with about 45 seconds to go. Fuel bottle cap was stuck in the lid, keeping it open...not the cars fault, LOL.

I just wish more 1/8th scale racers had enough self confidence to race and battle it out, rather then taking the jump em' from behind approach. What a huge sign of a lack of ability or low self esteem............>sigh<...next race things might be better?.........Jim
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Old 05-16-2005, 06:45 PM   #707
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Jammin owners if you have problems with the bladders in the shocks tearing or busting you need to get MUGEN MBX-5 bladders,They are 10x's more durable and have better elasticity.
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Old 05-16-2005, 08:05 PM   #708
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Quote:
Originally posted by W.E.D.Jim
I went to the outer arm holes with the shocks and removed some droop along with the heavier oil and whala! Car was awesome!
u mean outer on the shock stand and outer on the arm and more droop..
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Old 05-16-2005, 09:42 PM   #709
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I am just starting to put my CR together and I have a question on the clutch springs. Reading back through this thread a few guys said to use Mugen springs instead of the kit springs. I plan on useing the kit shoes and I would like to know if I should get the 1.0 or the 1.1 Mugen clutch springs.
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:17 PM   #710
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
I am just starting to put my CR together and I have a question on the clutch springs. Reading back through this thread a few guys said to use Mugen springs instead of the kit springs. I plan on useing the kit shoes and I would like to know if I should get the 1.0 or the 1.1 Mugen clutch springs.
I think the 1.0's are closer to the kit stock. The 1.1's ate up my stock shoes pretty fast.
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:24 PM   #711
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yeah get the 1.0 also you should get the mugen black shoes
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Old 05-17-2005, 08:24 AM   #712
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Ok, I got the car together and started breaking in the motor last night. but I noticed one thing that I cant figure out. The front break is sticking when applied. Its the brake cam that is sticking and I have to hit the trottle to get it to unstick. I took it apart and everyting is definatley together right. Anyone have a solution or have had this problem?
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:16 AM   #713
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When that has happened to me it's always that the brake pads are too far apart. I tighten the screws that hold the pads in as far as I can but so that everything moves freely when no brake is applied. I've found that if the pads are too far apart, the cam has to rotate a lot and it tends to stick.

good luck
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Old 05-17-2005, 10:51 AM   #714
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Yes this has happend to me also.
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Old 05-17-2005, 11:49 AM   #715
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final space in between should be 0.8 to 1.0 mm
use little washers between screw and first pad
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:43 PM   #716
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arghh, just moved the lower end of the shock and took droop away, so the car had less travel in the suspenion and would stay flatter in the turns. This is really good on high traction, but don't try it for low bite tracks.

L.fairtrace, I have also had this cost me a couple races, it even happened again last weekened, because I didn't check the air gap, which had changed a little and made the rear brakes stick on during a good run(missed the A by 1.2 seconds with my rear brakes dragging!). Now I ground the corners off the cams, which keeps them from hanging up on the edge(the whole problem). This requires "slightly" more travel to engage the brakes the same amount, but actually works smoother and they NEVER will stick again, no matter what air gap there is!........, Jim
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:17 PM   #717
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Great idea Jim... mine don't stick but I think I'll grind the corner off the cams anyway. If I don't I'm sure they'll start sticking at just the wrong time... know what I mean?
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:32 PM   #718
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x-gter, you probably know, but i'll post just in case, .....Only take a tiny bit off to take away the sharp edge. I'd guess the measurement of what I removed to be about .010-.015 inch............ttyl, Jim
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:49 PM   #719
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Thanks Jim! I own a machine shop so I'm pretty crafty with such things but I learned a long time ago that if I think I already know everything, I won't learn anything
so I appreciate the advice!
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Old 05-17-2005, 05:14 PM   #720
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Thanks for the response guys. I just took the sharp edge off and tried it before reading this and it works great now. I can't wait to get the car out this weekend.
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