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Old 05-11-2009, 05:36 PM   #4501
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How far do I screw in my bottom shock peice? the kti says 37.5 but.. that is way to much! The shock end would only be on the shock shaft with 2 teeth holding it on!
Bottom shock piece??
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:00 PM   #4502
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err... shock ball end.
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:35 AM   #4503
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Does anybody know how close the X1 body matches to the X2 body?
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Old 07-29-2009, 08:52 AM   #4504
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if the body is not cut out yet it will fit but you have to put your hole in different spots. line the front hole up and leave extra body off the back when you cut it out because the rear body mount hole is going to end up very close to the edge.

if the body is already cut out with holes and everything then it is very hard to make it fit. the motor is farther forward and inward, the chassie is longer and teh antanna will be in a different spot
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:12 AM   #4505
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Thanks, actually I'm using it for a TQ buggy and getting a new body. The X1 body fit well, I wasn't sure if they made any big design changes like losi's body did.
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:58 PM   #4506
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:42 AM   #4507
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Default Suspension a-arms binding after race

Hopefully people are still checking out this thread...

I've noticed that after a race my lower a-arms (front and rear) start binding... Before a race I usually tear down the suspension and check for free movement. I then sand the ends of the a-arms if they are not moving freely until they are. Everything is fine.

Then after a race, I tear down the suspection again and find that they are binding again. I go through the same routine with the sanding and everything is fine (until the next race).

Before you say it, yes, I did take it apart, clean it, and put it back together, but that does not resolve the binding. I have to sand the ends again.

Anyone have this issue? If so, how'd you fix it?
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:57 AM   #4508
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Maybe you are tightening the hinge pin bolts down to much? Have you had this problem since the car was new?
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Old 08-26-2009, 06:07 AM   #4509
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Originally Posted by WeatherB View Post
Hopefully people are still checking out this thread...

I've noticed that after a race my lower a-arms (front and rear) start binding... Before a race I usually tear down the suspension and check for free movement. I then sand the ends of the a-arms if they are not moving freely until they are. Everything is fine.

Then after a race, I tear down the suspection again and find that they are binding again. I go through the same routine with the sanding and everything is fine (until the next race).

Before you say it, yes, I did take it apart, clean it, and put it back together, but that does not resolve the binding. I have to sand the ends again.

Anyone have this issue? If so, how'd you fix it?
I have never had to sand on the arms and if you look at a new arm the ends are tappered, sanding will increase surface area drag on the blocks, I found if you overtighten the blocks they will bind, but for the most part, I drill holes in the front bumper and I spin all the pins after each race for free spin and check for bent pins. One track I race at is really really dusty and the pins will bind up bad there, but usally a couple spins on the pins and they are free again. Other problems I have seen are with the inner upper rear camber link dragging on the diff housing and have seen shocks bind up from people over tightening them, same with sway bars.
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Old 08-26-2009, 06:42 AM   #4510
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Originally Posted by killabud View Post
Maybe you are tightening the hinge pin bolts down to much? Have you had this problem since the car was new?
Not sure if this was a problem when the car was new. Only started racing it recently.

The way the hinge pins are designed, even if tightened completely, they do not put any pressure on the arm. They are free to spin and can move back and forth about 2mm.

Quote:
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I have never had to sand on the arms and if you look at a new arm the ends are tappered, sanding will increase surface area drag on the blocks, I found if you overtighten the blocks they will bind, but for the most part, I drill holes in the front bumper and I spin all the pins after each race for free spin and check for bent pins. One track I race at is really really dusty and the pins will bind up bad there, but usally a couple spins on the pins and they are free again. Other problems I have seen are with the inner upper rear camber link dragging on the diff housing and have seen shocks bind up from people over tightening them, same with sway bars.
Maybe this is the issue... I don't remember my arms being tappered at all. Either they weren't tappered to begin with (X1CR Factory Team kit) or I may have sanded the taper off completely (which I doubt). I have an extra set of arms at home, I'll check them out after work and see.

Please keep the suggestions coming. I'd hate to have to tear down the arms after each race (and probably after each run to verify that they are not binding).
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:05 AM   #4511
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hi im charles i live in utah and im new to thie racing world i cant find a track that i can open my throdle on my X1 CRT truggy can someone email me and tell me please ctanner89@ymail.com
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:51 AM   #4512
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guys im just got me a x1-cr that is converted to electric and i need a better bumper for bashing. would pefer one that is easily converted back for the occasional race but i dont know much about this buggy or 1/8 buggies for that matter

thanks for the help.
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:11 PM   #4513
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I recently bought a used Jammin' Truggy and I'm trying to figure out which it actually is. X1, X1X or X2.

I actually have one complete roller and and one nearly complete chassis for spares.

The roller has a tan chassis, carbon fiber top plate, aluminum towers and tower supports. The other is a blue-ish chassis.
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:39 PM   #4514
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Originally Posted by Kurt04 View Post
I recently bought a used Jammin' Truggy and I'm trying to figure out which it actually is. X1, X1X or X2.

I actually have one complete roller and and one nearly complete chassis for spares.

The roller has a tan chassis, carbon fiber top plate, aluminum towers and tower supports. The other is a blue-ish chassis.
No Jammins had a blue chassis, that would be either a 9.5 or an Ultra series buggy. You would need to post pictures of your buggies so we can take a better guess at.

Tha hard coated chassis of course is going to be a pro it seems like, the X1 and X2 look almost the same but the x2 parts in the middle are moved up forward for more forward steering. The body may look the same but if the preferated engine hole area is off from where the engine is sitting at now.

hope this helps.
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:48 PM   #4515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt04 View Post
I recently bought a used Jammin' Truggy and I'm trying to figure out which it actually is. X1, X1X or X2.

I actually have one complete roller and and one nearly complete chassis for spares.

The roller has a tan chassis, carbon fiber top plate, aluminum towers and tower supports. The other is a blue-ish chassis.
Jammin chassis is a grey color, all Jammin's have fiber top and alum tower and supports, post a pic.
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