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Old 05-30-2008, 01:35 PM   #4396
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is $330 a good deal for 2 used jammin x-1 cr pro's? 1 complete and one 95%???
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Old 05-30-2008, 03:19 PM   #4397
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is $330 a good deal for 2 used jammin x-1 cr pro's? 1 complete and one 95%???
Are they FTE cars or the original cars?
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Old 05-31-2008, 12:22 PM   #4398
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how much droop do you guys run chaps

i measured by using 2 wheels under the chassis and having a ride height guage against the rear hub

front i have 26mm

rear i have 23mm

which is what i found on a jammin website set up sheet
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Old 06-02-2008, 12:23 PM   #4399
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Originally Posted by Megacrash View Post
How do you guys tame the rear end down

just taken delivery of mine massive thanks to hong nor (uk name for jammin) and ive used it once
brand new and straight to the a main fuel issues cost me though not a fan of gen 2
but to my issue the rear end keeps spinning out when i grab the throttle which was fun for about 2 mins, ive got 25 20 in the shocks
5 5 2 in the diffs
i was considering laying the shocks down, other than that im open to suggestions
I have the same problem. Laying the rear shocks down helps a bit, but not quite. I run 7-10-3 in the diffs and 40 35 in the 13mm shocks, with blue muge springs (soft??) since the track is pretty broken up. Also 2 Anti squat and 3 rear toe in. -2 front camber and -3 rear.

Lowering the inner part of the rear A arm will also help, but what helped me the most was changing tires. From PL Crime Fighters, to GRP Atomic, similar, but with a bit more side-grip.

I'm also considering a series of tests for my next race: 40 45 oil, stiffer anti roll bar in the rear, more front toe out....also since they are fixing up the track to make it smoother, maybe I'll try the mugen grey (medium??) springs.....or just be gentler on the gas....hmmmm I hope some of this helps. Let me know, as I'm fighting the same situation here...

DR Z
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:13 PM   #4400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megacrash View Post
how much droop do you guys run chaps

i measured by using 2 wheels under the chassis and having a ride height guage against the rear hub

front i have 26mm

rear i have 23mm

which is what i found on a jammin website set up sheet
on the rear try 19-20mm it will be better on the rough
have fun
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:19 PM   #4401
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Originally Posted by DR ZAIRUS View Post
I have the same problem. Laying the rear shocks down helps a bit, but not quite. I run 7-10-3 in the diffs and 40 35 in the 13mm shocks, with blue muge springs (soft??) since the track is pretty broken up. Also 2 Anti squat and 3 rear toe in. -2 front camber and -3 rear.

Lowering the inner part of the rear A arm will also help, but what helped me the most was changing tires. From PL Crime Fighters, to GRP Atomic, similar, but with a bit more side-grip.

I'm also considering a series of tests for my next race: 40 45 oil, stiffer anti roll bar in the rear, more front toe out....also since they are fixing up the track to make it smoother, maybe I'll try the mugen grey (medium??) springs.....or just be gentler on the gas....hmmmm I hope some of this helps. Let me know, as I'm fighting the same situation here...

DR Z
when is happening??? on 180 turns, or fast turns? with or with out throttle? under braking?

to you have the rear upright long or short? can you give the setup you have on your car now?

regards
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:47 PM   #4402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megacrash View Post
How do you guys tame the rear end down

just taken delivery of mine massive thanks to hong nor (uk name for jammin) and ive used it once

brand new and straight to the a main fuel issues cost me though not a fan of gen 2

but to my issue the rear end keeps spinning out when i grab the throttle which was fun for about 2 mins,

ive got 25 20 in the shocks

5 5 2 in the diffs


i was considering laying the shocks down, other than that im open to suggestions
What kind of track is it on? First thing I would do is put this setup on the car Chad Bradley V2 setup

That should tighten it up some. After that if it's still loose then it might be something mechanical. With 5K in the center and 2K in the rear the car will rotate alot better the 5K, 7K, 3K setup.
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:50 PM   #4403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR ZAIRUS View Post
I have the same problem. Laying the rear shocks down helps a bit, but not quite. I run 7-10-3 in the diffs and 40 35 in the 13mm shocks, with blue muge springs (soft??) since the track is pretty broken up. Also 2 Anti squat and 3 rear toe in. -2 front camber and -3 rear.

Lowering the inner part of the rear A arm will also help, but what helped me the most was changing tires. From PL Crime Fighters, to GRP Atomic, similar, but with a bit more side-grip.

I'm also considering a series of tests for my next race: 40 45 oil, stiffer anti roll bar in the rear, more front toe out....also since they are fixing up the track to make it smoother, maybe I'll try the mugen grey (medium??) springs.....or just be gentler on the gas....hmmmm I hope some of this helps. Let me know, as I'm fighting the same situation here...

DR Z
What diff setup are you running? I've never had a loose problem with my car, it's actually always been on the tight side. But then again, I've always ran Chad Bradley's setups on my cars. Something that I've noticed is that the lower the oil in the rear diff the better the car rotates. You might want to start with the link in the post above and try that.
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:29 PM   #4404
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I had the same problem, with my new X1X, the hot set up for it which made it stick was big hole pistons, 40F with Blue springs, 32.5R with Gray springs, long rear link, bottom inside hole. Losi oil, Jammin Springs, also short rod end on the front and long rod end on the rear shocks, both inside hole on the arms and both top middle on the shock tower. 5-7-3 diffs, also the bottom hole and all the way back on the rear up rights, the car was hooked on 2 totally different tracks with just a little sway bar adjustment, factory kit anti squat and toe on the rear used, I got this set up from a Jammin Team driver with the expecption of he recommended 30 in the rear shocks, but the spring changes made the biggest difference, alot more off thottle turn in and the rear so sticky, the rear sway bar adjustment to free it up alittle.
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Old 06-02-2008, 11:37 PM   #4405
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Well tried the setup on sunday and all the changes i made had a huge impact which pleased me no end

I reckon i can still improve it so next round ill try the droop settings ALG reccomended and ill try lighter center diff oil

other than that top banana
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:36 PM   #4406
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Just to add some coments,
I tested the X1X with the stock silver springs (Im using BB 16mm) with 35/27.5 LOSI oil, the car was great and easy to drive, It was predictable and it had a good sweeper turns and also had the snap for the U turns. I made a spring change to white and the car was terrible, it felt unpredictable and hard to drive, I was fighting with the car to make it turn and stay on the line. The car was BAD, made a 4 laps before changing and my lap times were 2 sec of!!!!

Panther, when you say "rotate" you mean it can "U turn" very easy?

I also started with ChadBV2 base set up and worked from there to suit my driving style and track.

Remember that the TIRES are the ONLY thing hat is on contact with the surface and it is VERY impotant for your setting.

Read JQ colum # 5 fon neobuggy web, it is interesting!!!

keep tunning
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:39 AM   #4407
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If you put white all the way around I know it would be bad, try the whites in the rear with the silvers in the front, this lets the body roll with increased outside front tire pressure while cornering.
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Old 06-05-2008, 12:42 PM   #4408
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Hey !! Give us a direct link to that interesting neo buggy column, please!!

For what I see, I'm using a setup that's pretty similar to Chad Bradley's V2 you mentioned before. Of course that may be good or bad, depending on how similar his track and my track/driving style actually are.

The only differences I can see is I run 7-10-3 diffs (it's agressive, I know, but if I keep my cool, my lap times go down 2 secs!!!) and soft springs, because the track was kind of rutted. Also, I use the outer holes on the bottom of the shocks.

The car was pretty good, considering the track conditions. You should see everybody else crashing and breaking their buggies up, trying to go fast!! My fastest lap was never under 50 secs while some people did a best lap in 42 secs, but then crashed or retired. I finished 5th out of 30 drivers, so you see that my conservative driving+agressive gas tactic was a complete success!!!

Still, They are re-doing the whole track for the next race, so I suppose it will be a medium size, fast, technical track, with less bumps. Maybe I'll just go for stiffer (medium) springs and sway bars and see if the car improves in the two areas that weren't too good: jumping and the rear breaking loose if I'm not progressive on the throttle comming out of slow curves....

What do you think??

DR Z
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Old 06-05-2008, 01:32 PM   #4409
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Tio (Dr. Zairus) maybe you have an agressive clutch setting?? try using the 1.0mm or 0.9 mm spring, what bell are you using 13T or 14T maybe going to a hight teeth will control wheel spin and grip you rear.

the cloumn of JQ is
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/tiny...ndex.php?id=32

regarding the diff setting I think you are way off if the track is broken... if the track is very rugget try lowering your center diff.

read this info given by Chad:

Quote:
Say you usually use 5000front, 7000 center, 2000 rear


for the front
going lighter in the front will give the car more off power steering, less steering on throttle, sometimes easier to drive (sometimes it can make the car twitchy).

Going heavier is the opposite, less off power steering more on throttle steering.

Center
Lighter oil can help make the car easier to drive in the bumps, more traction. however you have less drive out of the corner (the front tires can grow easier). you'll also notice more off power steering

heavier center
Is more acceleration, can change directions unexpectedly in bumpy conditions. More on power steering because it can cause the rear tires to brake loose.
Rear
lighter oils like 700-1000 can make the car feel loose, however it can help the car rotate faster around the corners. sometimes better in the bumps

heavier oils helps with traction (3000-5000) going too heavy like 10,000 will make the car inconsistent around some tracks, might be real hooked up in some sections and spin out in others.

Its important to understand the diff settings, usually make adjustments in 1000 wt incriments.

sorry for all the spelling, thats not my strong point, lol.

Have fun
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:42 AM   #4410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALG View Post
Tio (Dr. Zairus) maybe you have an agressive clutch setting?? try using the 1.0mm or 0.9 mm spring, what bell are you using 13T or 14T maybe going to a hight teeth will control wheel spin and grip you rear.

the cloumn of JQ is
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/tiny...ndex.php?id=32

regarding the diff setting I think you are way off if the track is broken... if the track is very rugget try lowering your center diff.

read this info given by Chad:

Have fun
Hi and thanks for your interest. It's always good to help and be helped!!

I'm using the Fioroni turbo slide clutch with carbon shoes and soft springs, so that shouldn't be too agressive. The diff setting, yes. It was just a crazy test and although the car was harder to drive, if I took it easy it actualy improved my lap times. As I said: 5th /30 drivers: not bad.

Anyway, as I mentioned, they are smoothing out the track for the next race, so I'll probably keep the diffs and use medium springs and anti-roll bars, instead of soft. Also, I'll change from 13T to 14T, so that should calm the throttle reactions a bit too.

Yep the Neo-Buggy article hit the nail on the head!!! Unfortunately, I have no time for testing (work, wife, small children....) , so I just do my setup the night before and do tests during the race heats...

And yes: the most important part is to keep cool and have fun. It's a competitive hobby, but always a hobby!!!

Greetings from Spain, tio!!
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Last edited by DR ZAIRUS; 06-06-2008 at 10:17 AM.
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