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Old 03-01-2008, 06:12 AM   #4306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALG View Post
Regarding Dr Zarius, I would recomend to stay with the 3.0º raer toe and lower the diff oil to 1000, the problem is on a particular turn of the track or is on all slow turns?

tilting your rear shock is also a mod you can try, what is your raer camber setting? REMEMBER, one mod at a time
Have fun
Hi!! Thanks for the tips!!

The track is pretty technical (chicanes, slow curves) and with small bumps and ruts. Although this diff configuration makes the car more reactive and harder to control, I have improved my lap time by 1-2 seconds, so it seems it's worth the extra effort to drive it like this.

The spin-out only hapens on slow curves with short straights after them, where you are tempted to press on the gas exiting the curve, when the car still isn't completely straightened out. It's ok on regular curves or on straights. Also, the turn radius seems to be ok. No over/understeer

I'll give you a general idea of my setup ( front / rear):

-Camber links in neutral positions.
-Camber: 2º / 3º.
-Caster: B / Anti squat 1º.
-Toe: out 3º / in 3'5º.
-Ackerman=Front.
-Diff: 7-10-3.
-Shock poss: up= med, low= out / up= lower, low=out.
-13mm shocks w/ Mugen blue spring+50 oil / mugen blue+40 oil.
-Sway barrs: thin front / thick rear.

I think first thing I'll test is changing ackermann all the way back. that should make entering curves more agressive, but softer exiting. What about changing to caster A in the front??

Then, a thinner sway bar in the rear.Do you think lighter oil in front shocks/stiffer rear springs would help??

Maybe it's just a question on easing up on the gas and dir exponentials on the transmiter, so the cars reactions will be generally softer??

Thanks in advance for all your input, guys!!
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:16 AM   #4307
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Ok!! Here's the result of today's tests:

-Ackermann all the way back (increased)+less front toe out= improvement, responsive turning, although the rear still acts "heavy" exiting curves.

-Thinner rear sway bar: the car turns ok entering and exiting curves, but turns less in the middle of the curve. Sometimes it goes wide, sometimes it's possible to turn with a tap on throttle.

My next tests:

-Lower throttle exp on the transmitter.
-Go back to 3º rear toe in, instead of 3'5º.
-Shorter rear camber links, set them higher on the inside....

??????????????????????????????????????????????
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:37 PM   #4308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR ZAIRUS View Post
Ok!! Here's the result of today's tests:

-Ackermann all the way back (increased)+less front toe out= improvement, responsive turning, although the rear still acts "heavy" exiting curves.

-Thinner rear sway bar: the car turns ok entering and exiting curves, but turns less in the middle of the curve. Sometimes it goes wide, sometimes it's possible to turn with a tap on throttle.

My next tests:

-Lower throttle exp on the transmitter.
-Go back to 3º rear toe in, instead of 3'5º.
-Shorter rear camber links, set them higher on the inside....

??????????????????????????????????????????????

Dr Zarius,

In which track are you trying all this stuff ? (escribiré en inglés para que todo mundo pueda leer).

The thing is that, if you want more agility, my best bet always was going down on the rear toe in, and i mean DOWN, i used to use 3,5º, and went right to 2º and wow, a whole new car ... and in VERY TIGHT AND SMALL tracks, i went back to the plastic 1º of toe in + back position in ackerman

hope this help,

cya !
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Old 03-02-2008, 02:31 PM   #4309
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sorry, repeated!!
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Last edited by DR ZAIRUS; 03-03-2008 at 08:23 AM. Reason: repeated message
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Old 03-02-2008, 02:37 PM   #4310
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Hola Tabushi!! Qué bueno oir de ti!!

I'm racing once a month at a fast, tight, technical and pretty uneven track. The grip is good. Little by little, I'm improoving my setup and driving. Reducing seconds per lap!!

The thing is, I changed diffs from 5-7-2 to 7-10-3. The car reacts a lot quicker, but if I'm too brusk on the throttle exiting curves, it seems the rear is very heavy and sways a lot, even tries to spin out.

I was trying to improove this without changing the diffs, but can't seem to get it right. I deffinitely will try 3 or 2'5º rear toe in for more steering, although I'm affraid general stability will be reduced. Maybe I'll go back to the thick rear sway bar too, since steering in the middle of the turn has lessened with the thin one.

I'll also reduce exponential for throttle on the transmitter, so acceleration will be more progressive.

Maybe I should soften the front diff to 5000, but won't 5-10-3 be too big a difference??

What about hte rear camber links? Would longer or higher inside help?? And the lower outer hinge pin: high or low position??

Any ideas are well received!!
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:41 AM   #4311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR ZAIRUS View Post
Ok!! Here's the result of today's tests:

-Ackermann all the way back (increased)+less front toe out= improvement, responsive turning, although the rear still acts "heavy" exiting curves.

-Thinner rear sway bar: the car turns ok entering and exiting curves, but turns less in the middle of the curve. Sometimes it goes wide, sometimes it's possible to turn with a tap on throttle.

My next tests:

-Lower throttle exp on the transmitter.
-Go back to 3º rear toe in, instead of 3'5º.
-Shorter rear camber links, set them higher on the inside....

??????????????????????????????????????????????
Also try the 5000 center diff, this will also help, and EXPO on the radio also help but it will not be the cure.
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Old 03-04-2008, 02:34 AM   #4312
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Hi all from Australia, i had a similar problem with my X1, was loose in the rear off throttle and would realy step out when excellerating out of corners, after speaking with one of Ozs best X1 pilots, his suggestion that realy helped was going to a 2.5mm sway bar on the front and 2.8 on the rear. I realy thought that it would make it even more loose, but apparently with less roll it keeps all the tyres more planted on the track thus increasing traction, and i also run the rear roll centre on the lowest hole with link as long as possible and 1 degree antisquat, 16mm bigbores are also a very worth while upgrade, anyways hope it may help.
Cheers
Scott
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:45 PM   #4313
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Hi all from Australia, i had a similar problem with my X1, was loose in the rear off throttle and would realy step out when excellerating out of corners, after speaking with one of Ozs best X1 pilots, his suggestion that realy helped was going to a 2.5mm sway bar on the front and 2.8 on the rear. I realy thought that it would make it even more loose, but apparently with less roll it keeps all the tyres more planted on the track thus increasing traction, and i also run the rear roll centre on the lowest hole with link as long as possible and 1 degree antisquat, 16mm bigbores are also a very worth while upgrade, anyways hope it may help.
Cheers
Scott
thanks to all for your suggestions!!

Scott: it seems like thicker sway bars on both ends would make the car run flatter. In the same idea, I had also thought of tightenning the down stops, to allow less droop, the only inconvenient is the track is a little bumpy and ruted, although the bumps are small, so...won't this make the car skip and bounce on the track?? I'll give it a try anyway.

If all else fails, I'll have to decide between just being easy on the throttle or giving up and going back to 5-7-2 diffs...

I'll keep you all posted about the results...

Ed
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Last edited by DR ZAIRUS; 03-05-2008 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 03-09-2008, 01:40 PM   #4314
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Questions?? New (lightweight) chassis???

Hi guys,

I've been running the X1CR for 2 seasons now and still happy with it.
I always try to change the worn out parts with the improved versions of it when it makes sense.
Now, the chassis is worn out at the bottom and became a lightweight chassis by itself .

What would you suggest, since I was thinking of a lightweight chassis.
Is it worth the money? or should I just stick with the standard chassis?
For the lightweight, I saw 2 alternatives:
- OFNA hard anodized chassis and
- Fioroni hardcoated chassis (3mm)
Which one would you advice me to get and why?

Your opinion/feedback/experience is much appreciated!!
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Old 03-09-2008, 02:31 PM   #4315
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Ran my X1 for the first time this season today. I need to adjust a few odds and ends, but one issue that I will need to address is the damping. I NEED TO GET THOSE 16mm SHOCKS!
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Old 03-11-2008, 01:37 PM   #4316
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Hi guys,

I've been running the X1CR for 2 seasons now and still happy with it.
I always try to change the worn out parts with the improved versions of it when it makes sense.
Now, the chassis is worn out at the bottom and became a lightweight chassis by itself .

What would you suggest, since I was thinking of a lightweight chassis.
Is it worth the money? or should I just stick with the standard chassis?
For the lightweight, I saw 2 alternatives:
- OFNA hard anodized chassis and
- Fioroni hardcoated chassis (3mm)
Which one would you advice me to get and why?

Your opinion/feedback/experience is much appreciated!!
The OFNA light is very good. The Fioroni light is super!!

Just remember: lighter means less resistant to wear and hits, so for the price and performance I'd get the regular OFNA Pro chasis....
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:34 PM   #4317
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Default Brakes!!!

Ok, so Im building this kit and I have a small question.

Which way is the two posts that press and activate the brake system since the posts have a flat side, and a side with two angled edges. Id like to know which side presses against the calipers. The instructions and images I have seen dont show it clear enough.


Thanks
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:46 PM   #4318
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the little angled bump presses against the calipers. when it's assembled and you push the linkage posts back, you see it apply pressure to the calipers.
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:09 PM   #4319
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thanks, thats the way I have it now, but was really unsure......
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:04 AM   #4320
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Questions??

Dr Zairus,

Tx a lot for your opinion!

Are you saying that the Fioroni is lighter but less rigid comparing to the OFNA one? .
They cost both the same at A-Main, unless you have a better address where I can order the chassis.
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