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Old 12-16-2007, 10:23 AM   #4126
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Questions??

Hi guys,

Just upgraded my standard shocks to the "standard big bore" and was wondering which spring to use and which oil thickness.

With the standard shocks, I was using the blue springs all around and 35WT at the rear and 45WT at the front.

With the big bore shocks, I was planning to get the progressive RMV PBR Special Shock Springs.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...ld=description

Any suggestion/experience is appreciated!!

Tx a lot in advance.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:21 AM   #4127
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Hi guys,

Just upgraded my standard shocks to the "standard big bore" and was wondering which spring to use and which oil thickness.

With the standard shocks, I was using the blue springs all around and 35WT at the rear and 45WT at the front.

With the big bore shocks, I was planning to get the progressive RMV PBR Special Shock Springs.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...ld=description

Any suggestion/experience is appreciated!!

Tx a lot in advance.
I would say no to the Progressive's, and grab the jammin springs and the Mugen greys and you'll be set..JMO....but here ya go'
http://www.jamminproducts.com/CRsetups/x1supCBv2.pdf

ALSO: has anyone tried running the plastic chassis braces and ar mounts on the pro kits to shave weight? I am using all plastic wing/radio posts.

Last edited by pwnzor; 12-16-2007 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:25 AM   #4128
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i run the mugen grey's with 37.5 in front and 27.5 in rear but when its cold that seemed to thick so im trying 25 in fron and 20 in the rear to see if i can settle it down a bit
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:03 PM   #4129
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Tx for the feedback guys.
Just wondering, why not the progressive shocks?
What will be the difference in handling of the car, comparing with the normal "lineair" shock springs?
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:14 PM   #4130
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Tx for the feedback guys.
Just wondering, why not the progressive shocks?
What will be the difference in handling of the car, comparing with the normal "lineair" shock springs?
I simply dont see anyone use them, I am a newb so I try to use what the fast guys are using, and they arent using progressive springs, not saying they're bad.

has anyone tried running the plastic chassis braces and arm mounts on the x1cr to shave weight? I plan on using all plastic wing/radio posts.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:03 PM   #4131
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Quote:
has anyone tried running the plastic chassis braces and arm mounts on the x1cr to shave weight?
When using the plastic chassis braces, the chassis will have more tweak which is good when you want to have more traction. However, in off road tracks the tweak will cause movement in the spacing between clutch bell and spurgear. This will ruin the clutch bearing sooner.
The z-brace, aluminium center diff holder and one piece engine mount contribute to stiffen up the chassis, along with the aluminum braces front and rear.
Also the dirt/sand from the track will add weight.
Try to make the driveline lighter. That is a much better improvement.

Plastic arm mounts are more fragile during crashes. Also this will cause the hole of the hinge pin to become oval, which will cause slop sooner.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:26 PM   #4132
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Try the upper and lower ti screw kits for the MBX5 to save weight. Also the Jammin lightened chasis and all the bits Put ti screws in the diffs too to lighten the drive train...VTX or whatever. Also try a lighter fluid in the diffs-LOL

My x1-cr is at 7lbs 14 7/8 oz right now complete with body and no fuel. I'll see where I end up and post the weight. Any body know of an RC specific company that makes aluminum metric screws? For non stressed areas like the little clamps for the sway bar on the diff housings.
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:41 PM   #4133
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Chad Bradley has ran the plastic braces I know for sure, all the kyosho drivers use the plastic arm mounts, so I dont see what it could hurt, yes the arm mounts will wear faster obviously than cnc alum, but if you maintain your car,thats no big deal, Im going to try the plastic braces and arm mounts, If I dont like them or have problems with excessive flexing, wear or breakage, I still have all my cnc pieces that I can put back on
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:50 PM   #4134
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Chad Bradley usually doesnt run the plastic braces though, the rear one will melt from the heat of the engine from what I've been told

If you want to shave weight get a Lipo.
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:55 PM   #4135
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correct, he simply recommends them as a tuning option for bumpy tracks, I seen the topic on neo buggy where he said the rear plastic brace could be stressed from heat from the engine on long runs, but the front holds up fine..........my question is this.......poor materials used?? mugen rear mbx5t plastic brace does'nt melt / stress due to heat, or do they?? He also said something was in the works for the rear plastic brace problem as well as since the new super BB's, he hasnt felt a need for anything but the cnc, so maybe I will wait on the plastic braces until they fix the materials issue, look for another updated part soon hahahahahaha

Last edited by pwnzor; 12-16-2007 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 12-16-2007, 04:00 PM   #4136
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Hey Pwnzor,
Just curious since you drop a lot of lines about B Main Hobbies, Homor said anything lately about when they are getting their first shipment of the Jammin x1x buggy?
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Old 12-16-2007, 04:01 PM   #4137
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not yet bro, but I can find out for you or Homer will post up and let you know whats up
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Old 12-16-2007, 04:09 PM   #4138
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all right sounds good
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:48 PM   #4139
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Hi Pros!

In which track condition can we use TORSEN differentials? Its hard to see the setup in the reviews.

What is the differences if only the front TORSEN differential or both(front & centre) differential are used?

Thanks in Advance!
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:21 PM   #4140
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I have never used torsen diffs, or know anyone that has.

I just ordered a bunch of stuff for my x1cr gearing up for outdoor season, buggy should be dialed by spring. Getting a new Novarossi .21bf to put in it, should be perfect for my track. I plan to have the drivetrain fully lightened by then as well, all outdrives, diff cross-pins and spur. Is anyone using the Kyosho 48t light spur with success? the HN one is way too expensive.
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